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Thread: Idle Air Control Valve Replacement

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  1. #1

    Idle Air Control Valve Replacement

    I disconnected my IAC last August and just set the idle to about 1k using the BISS to get me through until I traded the car out for something else, but now I find I need to hold onto it a bit longer. So... it's time to replace the IAC. I live in one of those special places that does emissions testing.

    Looks like I can get one pretty cheap at the local Pick N Pull, and it doesn't seem too incredibly difficult, but I wanted to ask you guys for any advice or pointers on swapping this thing.

    Will I need to mess with the Throttle Position Sensor if I don't remove it from the throttle body?

    How hard is it to get the IAC off the TB? Seems like it's just a few screws?

    Are the gaskets reusable if not torn/broken?

    What's the best way to put the BISS back where it goes? Like.. in Park.. set idle to 800 RPMs with IAC unplugged?

    And anything else you may have experienced doing the swap... or better yet, if there's a walk-thru anywhere I'd appreciate a link (I can't find one).


    Thanks in advance!

    Gunny

  2. #2
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    Dont remove the TPS, its hard to readjust later on.

    Replace the TB gasket.

    Yes the IA is held by a few screws, but you'd be better off removing the lower portion of the TB and cleaning it (remove IAC before cleaning)

    Yeah set the BISS with IAC unplugged.
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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by mko View Post
    Dont remove the TPS, its hard to readjust later on.

    Replace the TB gasket.

    Yes the IA is held by a few screws, but you'd be better off removing the lower portion of the TB and cleaning it (remove IAC before cleaning)

    Yeah set the BISS with IAC unplugged.
    Just make sure the gasket is clean, reusing them is fine. I've done it countless times.

    IAC is held in by three screws. Only the 74 throttle body has a removable lower section so he can't do that. However getting the three screws out is easy, all you need is a screw driver..


    To replace the IAC start by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery. Replace the IAC. If you've messed with the idler screw you reset it by screwing it all the way in (it's soft plastic so be easy on it). Back it out a little less than one turn and you'll be good to go. Reconnect the battery and be on your way. The car will take a little while to readjust itself so if it idles funny or surges for a while don't worry.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the quick replies. Gonna grab the part Sunday AM and swap it out. I will post back once it's done and let ya know how it went.

  5. #5
    Pick N Pull had the IAC for $26.99. Piece of cake to yank out, and took about 1/2 hour to put in my car after I cleaned it up a bit. No more CEL, and the idle is much smoother accommodating the AC and high alternator loads. Hopefully this one will last a while.

    Thanks again for the help!

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