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Thread: Rear Sway Bar End Link Replacement

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  1. #1

    Rear Sway Bar End Link Replacement

    The passenger side rear makes a clunking noise when I hit bumps, a mechanic friend of mine took a look and said that the sway bar (or stabalizer bar) end link needs to be replaced, said it was easy.

    Is it's really easy? It looks like it just unbolts and the new one bolts in. Anything else I should be aware of?

    Also I think that the part I need is the MOOG K7432 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...093&cc=1364060), is that the right one and is it the same for both sides?

  2. #2
    TGC Lifetime Patron Palmz's Avatar
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    its realy easy to replace but i recomend haveing an angle grinder handy since the nut nearly always spins with the threads and then its just easier to cut it off
    2001 Galant 2.4 USDM
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  3. #3
    torch, angle grinder or a set of vise grips and an impact gun. those are the three best ways to get the nuts off. gurantee at least one if not all 4 nuts will get stuck on the link and just spin.

  4. #4
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    You guys realize the studs have allen to hold them if they spin.

    And aftermarket sway links like moog have a a 14mm hex at the base of the stud to hold it in case it spins although new links are stiff and rarely spin.

    Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    You guys realize the studs have allen to hold them if they spin.

    And aftermarket sway links like moog have a a 14mm hex at the base of the stud to hold it in case it spins although new links are stiff and rarely spin.

    Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk
    most of the time if the nuts are too rusted to come off just zapping them off with an impact then the allen hole in the bolt part will end up stripping out. seldom do i get an endlink that doesnt give me an issue and i do this stuff on a weekly basis.

  6. #6
    pop of the endlink, cut the ball of with a sawzall and then use a punch and tap out the bolt side. easy peasy

    AWD Converted Forward Facing 6466 E85 EVO 8 ECU Powered 2003 Galant

  7. #7
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Rarely does rust happen in Socal. We got no cold snowy or rainy weathers.

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  8. #8
    Booty Luva wetamup2k3g's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    Rarely does rust happen in Socal. We got no cold snowy or rainy weathers.

    Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk
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  9. #9
    I still haven't done this... I tried to take off one side a week ago and both of the bolts were spinning, I'm gonna have to borrow a sawzall and cut them off I guess.

    Is there enough room to get an impact gun in there? Maybe the bottom one but what about the top one?

    Where is the allen key hole oakrdrs187 talked about?

  10. #10
    Don't waste time. Cut them of as flush as possible on the ball side, and the grind it flush, tap out the rest. Easy hr job if that

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    AWD Converted Forward Facing 6466 E85 EVO 8 ECU Powered 2003 Galant

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Galantman03 View Post
    Don't waste time. Cut them of as flush as possible on the ball side, and the grind it flush, tap out the rest. Easy hr job if that

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
    I finally got to it this past weekend. I was able to get the bottom nut off by spraying the hell out of it with PB Blaster and then holding it with an allen key using a wrench. The top didn't want to cooperate so I cut the ball side with a sawzall. Then I found that the other side wouldn't come out as there was a piece (like a washer) holding it in, I had to cut the nut off with a dremel then put in the new Moog part. Took an hour from start to finish. Not horrible but it'd probably been easier if I had a grinder to cut the nut side off. But now the rear end isn't making noise when I go over a bump and the car doesn't pull to the right anymore. I'm gonna do the other side one day this week... and will borrow a grinder from somebody to make it easier.

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