The tune up sucked... i tried the clamshell technique to try and save some time and it was still tedious. I snapped two bolts in the manifold, one for the throttle cable adjustment/ guide and the other just above the injection rail. I will contend with those later.
after intake installation but before tune up
during tune up
Daughter helping mommy work on car (neighbors were watchin and trippin, lol)
After tune up
Nice! I'm sure it runs as good as it looks. Also on your issue with the ride height in the rear, don't know if it applies to our cars but what about preload? http://teinusa-blog.com/applying-suspension-preload/
I can't say for certain, as my last car and my G were lowered with the help of a friend who is more into fitment than I am. So he has more experience at being low lol
Last edited by 8thLS6; 11-26-2014 at 09:14 PM
Good job Mel, impressed seeing a girl doing some work on her car.
15 F150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 - daily driver
01 Galant ES V6 MT (sold)
00 Eclipse RS MT
Awwwe, Thanks Black8GV6!Originally Posted by Black8GV6
Honestly, it kicked my ass and my hands are tore up, but I prefer to do most of the work myself. Timing belt and body work are just about the only things I'm not comfortable messing with.
And the 5 speed swap that will eventually take place will have to be hired out as well I'm sure ;).
I just read the article and you may be on to something. I know they lifted her up and put it together and then put her back on the ground.i watched them do it again today. I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow and see if it works, thanks for the input!
To bad you didn't live in Cali, would of done the swap for free..
No prob, hope it helps
Careful Coconut, I'm actually from Cali and all my fam lives there so I'm back and forth quite a bit, I just might take u up on that offer one day , lol ;) sounds like fun....
Where abouts in Cali ?
Bring all parts needed
and ill handle the rest. Let me know! :-)
I will need to get a thorough list together for the swap and then get the parts. So it will be a minute for sure. Was planning on waiting for the tranny to drop then replace with manual, but I'm getting anxious...lol
Last edited by melwood513; 12-05-2014 at 01:09 PM Reason: Double post...
SoCal. Riverside/ Norco
Your location is about half hour forty five minutes max.
This is good news :) !
I will do some research and start gathering it all up. Probably a few months time. Thank you!
Right on! If you need any help getting the parts let me know also. Have some local j/y that would probably have most of what you need. I would have no problem going and taking them out for ya. Let me know !!! Your welcome
Last edited by coconut; 12-05-2014 at 04:14 PM
Looking at the issue's you've been having with the rear it looks like somethings moving, especially if you say the gap changes. Also you may need to have the fenders rolled. Back to the change in gap on the suspension, make sure when you measure it you are looking at it with the car on flat ground, if the suspension is articulated at all you will have one wheel in droop, and one wheel compressed.
Also you may hear some people talk about setting the suspension so that the suspension doesn't compress when the car is set back on the ground, I will tell you this is a very dangerous practice as the suspension needs the down travel to negotiate bumpy roads effectively. I bring this up because that tien link, if I remember correctly, tells you to do exactly that to make up for the very small amount of travel in most tien dampers.
RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
"I shall go before thee and make the crooked places straight."
2001 ES V6 M/T under construction
1991 Volvo 244ti 300 whp daily driver
www.gooichimotorsports.com
I had reviewed the Tein link and considered giving it a shot but I'm right there with you, why did it go back to the way it was before the shop "fixed" it if something didn't move that was holding it in place. And even after they "fixed" it the gaps were very different. Right now this is my biggest concern and I need to get this worked out it will be going back to the shop next week but I don't trust that they are being forthcoming with what actually took place under there. I have already questioned the non GTZ rear end and I got more answers here than from the guy doing the work (that's usually the case though).
Can you tell me what I should be looking for and what could possibly have moved. I just want to make sure I have a better idea of what's going on before I trust them to "fix" it again.
It's hard to tell in the picture but it is noticeably leaning again.
Any input is greatly appreciated and I'm glad that you caught this before I take it back on Monday. Thank you very much for taking the time to respond as this has put a little bit of a damper on the rebuild and I'm becoming quickly discouraged.
Don't get discouraged, there is a fix its just a matter of finding it. If the whole subframe was replaced there could be a number of issues to result from that, however look for the easy stuff first. Is the rear upright/knuckle bent? Is there a control arm bent? How are the suspension bushings? Look for anything that might be out of center or loose. It might pay off to put the back end up on jackstands and inspect it all thoroughly, make sure there isn't any play anywhere. Compare the two sides to see if anything is obviously deformed in comparison to the opposite component.
RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
"I shall go before thee and make the crooked places straight."
2001 ES V6 M/T under construction
1991 Volvo 244ti 300 whp daily driver
www.gooichimotorsports.com
Long time no talk guys! And thanks gearhead, I hope ur right. Let me give u a brief rundown of what's been going on while I've been away.
The car went back to the shop. Not absolutely sure of what the body shop did other than grind my fender down so it would not cut into the tire. But since the first delivery of the vehicle, it has been back in shop several times. The gap difference on each side in those rear fenders is the one thing that has never changed. The rubbing noises and squeaks and hums seemed to just move around whenever it came out of shop.
I took off to Cali in January, didn't make it too far And I had a blow out. (this is right after I had shop inspect And tell me it was safe for that long haul). Those tires were fairly new, all four same time and rears were smooth, front tread is good. Went to discount, found out all directionals rotating wrong way, I actually stopped driving the car back in February cuz I took a road trip north and it rained and snowed. I was all over the road hydroplaning, then snow was getting jammed up in Wells and I had to keep getting out to remove it so the wheels could roll and I wasnt dragging the rear up the hill till it slid backwards packed with ice. I was stuck in hotel till storm passed cuz chains would not fit on tires. Finding out later it was cuz of my directionals... Oh man.
, so I was concerned And pissed when I saw this.
Come to find out, every time I took car in they were swapping tires around because they were getting chewed by the drivers rear. both rears were trashed and one up front has damage and I'll need to replace it soon... PISSED!
I've just recently returned to AZ and finally jacked it up last night because Now it sounds like my wheel bearings have gone out. I was appalled. I won't lie, I CRIED.... This shop has destroyed my car, they must have salvaged this rear end from the bottom of the Atlantic first off and second, it looks nothing like my old one and all the bushings are shot, the bike assemblies are hanging up on both sides, one of my brand new rims is destroyed on the backside, lip grinded down!
I do see obvious differences in the knuckles and I found two different bumpstops as well. Anyways, here is what I saw. So embarrassing. First pic, my rear end after accident but on passenger side.
After replaced with salvaged crap, same side little closer up.
Bump stop passenger
Problem side
Bumpstop
I don't want to go too crazy if I haven't already here, lol. I have to meet with shop owner this week, only told him my abs and tcl lights have been intermittently coming on and that the hum going on since he first delivered the car is deafening now. I'm not sure how to approach this yet, obviously I don't trust them.
Any way to tell where this rear assembly came from?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
I have video of the wheels free spinning and u can clearly hear the clinking of the brake cover hang up, BOTH SIDES! Wheel bearing for sure drivers and noise coming from passenger
AZ dmv made me strip front windows to get my tags...
I can't catch a break when it comes to the car lately .....
Both sides sound similar. Note rim that is completely chewed up in a pattern.
In the beginning of this mess, shop b
Tried to blame my new shocks and springs. Lol. I want whatever this is out from under my car asap before something else goes out, or wears prematurely or gets grinded off to make room for some defective part... SMH
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
Last edited by melwood513; 07-15-2015 at 03:44 PM
Can't really tell much from the pictures except the upper bushing on the problem side knuckle is bad. That can cause un-even tire wear. From the video all I can hear is the sound of the dust cover scrapping the rotor. The noise right at the end could be the bad wheel bearing or the worn bushings on that side.
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2001 Mitsubishi Galant ES
2001 Mitsubishi Galant ES
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