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Reply With QuoteI'll get them ordered. Thanks guys for checking it out
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My thoughts exact. Time for some energy or prothane bushing upgrades and that would take care of the worn bushings.
I'll get them ordered. Thanks guys for checking it out
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Still need to get these ordered. I've gone to do it a couple times and it's rather confusing, do they not have a complete set for the GTZ? I thought this would be an easier task....lol. I must be missing something...Originally Posted by coconut
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After replacing the hub assemblies and having dust cover issue corrected, the car drives nicely again and there are no more strange noises. Not sure what the shop did exactly to correct the one side or I would share. So once again, YOU GUYS WERE RIGHT...and it helped me call the shop out on some of their half assed work. Thank you all very much. I still need to replace the bushings but that should be it suspension wise. :)
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Should be the same kit . Ill see if I can find the number I used. Warning it wil be a little stiffer ride.
Awesome, I appreciate it, and I'm OK with that, especially if it will make everything else last longer.
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Have the invoice some wheres with the number. Will look for it tomorrow.
No hurry, :)
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What were we correct on....again?
I think it was the bad rear hub and bearings.
Well, I was pretty frustrated and convinced something was seriously wrong, you had to drive it, to hear it, to feel it..besides the fact I blew through two tires...but couldn't present my argument to the body shop until I did what Gearhead recommended and get under it myself and look for obvious differences. It was not as easy underneath but after going through all photos I took side by side, I did notice the driver side upper control arm rear bolt was positioned slightly different and almost angling the control arm a bit. That's the side I was hit on. So once I went in and pointed that out along with the bad bushings, and argued the point that a misaligned knuckle from a bent arm could cause hub bearing failure, they covered everything but the bushings and that's because I told them I wanted to upgrade. Its quiet again and rides much better then it did.
So you were all right, dust cover, bushings, bad wheel bearing, bent or misaligned parts.....
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Have those part numbers for the kits. Remember this will stiffen the suspension up.
Its made by prothane 13-2002 BL. This is a kit. But you will also need 3 kits of 88-309-BL for the rear knuckles..
I heard that energy suspension bushing are softer and will give you a better ride.. Sorry I dont have those part numbers.
I ate up 2 tires because of these same problems. As well as worn lower control arms.
Thank you so much!
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No problem
I still have some questions that I could never find definitive answers for. I know the GTZ suspension vs other models has been discussed to death, but there are a few things that I can't seem to confirm. Since the assembly they put in came with drums, doesn't that mean it is off of a 4 cyl model? If so, this used assembly is broken in and tuned for a different set up right? The weight of my GTZ on it and how it sits will be very different right? Do the rears of 4's and 6's bolt up in the same exact location?
Here's what's going on, I've had several issues, all of which are pretty much blamed on my coils and now my rims even. ABS/TCL intermittently coming on, can't stand my tires up straight cuz of "how low" I took car, which wasn't specified because they didn't take measurements they were supposed to before and after, and as u see its not that low, and u guys know the rest.
I provided body shop with the kybs and Vogtlands spec'd for the GTZ. My Helo rims (which I HATE, bad call, they r ugly on car, lol) are 18 x 8.0" , before accident I had 7.5's but could only get 8's in these and when shop heard they jumped on that too telling me my rims are too wide. Between the crappy ride compared to my original and the weird difference in my wheel well gaps now after lowering and shop repair I just want to do whatever I need to to get my GTZ back.
After looking online at parts to order so I could compare part numbers I see I may run into other issues if unaware of exactly which vehicle my assembly came off of. I see the breakdown of parts specifies clearly between "gtz and non gtz" and such. I researched it and it seems the rear trailing arm on drivers side is different part then rest of V6 4 wheel disc models. Where does this leave me if I'm needing to order parts? Fitment issues? The latest turn of events is the body shop manager telling me that I have no drivers rear ABS when I let him know abs light came on again... WTF? I said aren't they all abs and he said " not on that side". This whole thing is getting old and I'm sorry to bother u all with it, but confused for sure now. If this rear is going to cause nothing but problems I'll fight them to take it out if I have to.
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The rear subframe assembly will be fine on your car, what makes the difference is the shocks and springs, and the rear sway bar thickness.
So for shocks and springs you are fine. As long as the shop used the original sway bar its still technically within GTZ spec. So go ahead and buy your polyurethane bushings for your cars specification.
As far as the wheels standing up straight, you need to get camber correction kits and get aligned again (which you'll probably need anyway after the suspension bushings are redone because everything will be broken loose and stiffer bushings are going in) these cars are notorious for negative camber, they hit negative 1 to negative1.5 on stock suspension, after a drop it's not uncommon to go as far as negative 3 (this can lead to uneven tire wear). I know I had a 4cyl with Tein S Tech springs which are 1.7 front and 1.3 rear give me negative 3.0 and negative 2.9 once. On one of mine I have the ingalls kits off ebay that can correct upto -3 to +3.
Now for that ABS and TCL light flicker, the system works with individual sensors on each wheel, each wheel bearing has a sprocket/wheel with teeth, the ABS sensors count every tooth as it comes by as the wheel turns, if a tooth is missing or chipped on the said sprocket/abs wheel the ABS module will see this and trigger the light every time a tooth is not counted, also if the sensors are broken, damaged or its wires are exposed and somehow shorting on metal or to each other this will also cause intermittent light flicker, this is all very possible for you since that rear end was swapped out and disc brakes were put in place of drums, all this moving parts and swapping pieces makes it very possible for any component I just mentioned to have gotten damaged. It could have been the collision itself too, you won't know until everything is inspected. You may have ABS codes that will point you in the direction of which wheel is faulting out, but first inspect everything and make sure the sensor tips are clean and free of debris, they are magnets and will hold metal shavings.
Thanks for your time Vic, I will also order the camber kit. You guys sure do make my life alot easier. Once the car is 100% I'll be stopping through to see you on my next trip to Cali to drop those parts we discussed a while back, just not sure when that will be, but I'll let you know.
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Sounds like a plan!
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