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Thread: My 2003 Silver GTZ - Kouki Vr4, 6g75 MT build

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  1. #141
    What's that code exactly??
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  2. #142
    A 5spd would certainly fix that issue!

    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    What's that code exactly??
    P0734. Transmission code: Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
    Last edited by RedGalant2k1; 01-12-2016 at 09:34 AM

  3. #143
    Quote Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1 View Post
    A 5spd would certainly fix that issue!
    P0734. Transmission code: Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
    Yepp, that's it. It could mean a lot of things, but in the end I figured it's done for. I had this happen to my '01, I'm fairly confident it's going to be a pump failure just like the last time, but had a tiny hope it's something simple.

    I replaced the input & output speed sensors, they checked out. I popped off the cover to pull the solenoids, and they are all good. No big metal shavings in there, but at this point I figured if I have to dig deeper I might as well just do the swap. Some pics for those who need to do a solenoid replacement at one point, or replace the valve body. It's really easy.







    Nice to have a donor car.







    More to come.

  4. #144
    I have most of parts I need for the swap, but I do need a new clutch. Back in the day I used to run the Exedy Stage 1 kit. Some people skip it bc they think it's an OEM replacement basically, but it is actually a decent upgrade for just bolt ons.

    Stage one pressure plate vs OEM. Having had run both with the same disc, I can state that the Stage 1 does have more clamping force. It also has a "step" on the inner side of the ring which the oem doesn't. Must be for weight savings lol.
    The pp has MBC595 stamped on it, after some research it turns out this is Exedy's oem pp for the 2nd gen Mitsubishi RVR 4g63T (1998-2002) known in Europe as the Space Runner. Mitsubishi part# MD771746.



    OEM disc vs Stage 1, back in the day. The OEM was 224mm OD iirc, the Stage one is 237mm. It is in reality an OEM Exedy disc, made for the FD RX7. (part# MZD069) Too bad these are not easy to find anymore separate for cheap.



    This is the disc I was going to use this time, I like the idea of sticking to full face discs: ACT EVO (Exedy)


    The Mazda disc on the PP vs the EVO disc. The EVO one takes advantage of the full mating surface of the pp at 240mm OD.




    Too bad upon placing the EVO disc onto the PP I realized that it doesnt lay flat on it. The hub hits the forks on the outside of the springs, the EVO disc is just too thick in that spot. I guess the search continues for an inexpensive fullface solution.




    Last edited by gtx; 01-13-2016 at 10:21 AM

  5. #145
    Started to prep for the swap. Still hate the part where you need to run the new cables, there's just no room to get to the inner bolt on the firewall.


    Simple things make me happy tho: I still love how the mounting points for the clutch pedal are already there on the car under the insulation. (Dam you MMC for not going through with the manuals in the first place lol)



    I can see the light!


    Pedals in, shifter assy in. Once the clutch is here along with some other small things, the AT comes out.


  6. #146
    Nice work. What exactly do u mean by full face?? I'm trying to figure out what exactly u r looking for in a clutch to see if I can chime in and help.


    Also what is that gold attachment on your wrench??
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  7. #147
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    Nice work. What exactly do u mean by full face?? I'm trying to figure out what exactly u r looking for in a clutch to see if I can chime in and help.


    Also what is that gold attachment on your wrench??
    I'm open to suggestions! I'm trying to avoid puck style discs, lets say like this one:
    Exedy Stage 2
    Looking for something that can handle some extra power from the 3.8, but will not drive me crazy while in heavy traffic. Reinforced organic sounded good to me. With the kevlar ones I heard it's easy to glaze them.

    My setup would have been the Exedy Stage 1 pressure plate with an ACT disc. I just happen to already have an EVO disc from them) but I know they make one for the Eclipse too. I'm just not settled on that as while I know their old discs were Exedy based, my understanding is that the new ones are of a different design. I'd like to maintain a factory style hub. I know, I'm picky :)

    The gold tool on my wrench is a factory vac hose clamp. It's ziptied to the wrench so it acts as a spring, keeping the swivel head at a 135 degree angle - almost perfect for the job.

  8. #148
    Look into stage two competition clutch. Mine was a full face.
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  9. #149
    this thread is giving me motivation to start my build back up lol putting in work!!

  10. #150
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    Look into stage two competition clutch. Mine was a full face.
    I was considering that, the prices are good too. Do you have a pic of your disc by any chance? I read it somewhere that the center part that sits on the input shaft is not as deep (if that makes any sense) as the exedy ones, which kind of concerns me.

  11. #151
    I'd have to go to storage to take a picture for u since it's out of the car.
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  12. #152
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    I'd have to go to storage to take a picture for u since it's out of the car.
    Don't go through that trouble, I found a pic in your thread. I kind of wish I could buy just their pressure plate separate now.
    Oh well, it's time to stop overthinking this :)

  13. #153
    Quote Originally Posted by gtx View Post
    Don't go through that trouble, I found a pic in your thread. I kind of wish I could buy just their pressure plate separate now.
    Oh well, it's time to stop overthinking this :)
    Maybe u can. I know u can buy the disc alone. I just bought a stage 4 disc to upgrade mine since stage 2 thru 5 use the same pressure plate.
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  14. #154
    For now, I gave in and ordered the correct ACT disc, part # 3000308. On a side-note, man ACT got expensive. I'll see how it works with my Exedy pp and go from there.

    Some parts arrived:New axles thanks to Advanced Auto, and Motul for the trans. Used to run Redline MT90 per Sheptrans, but seeing how Wavetrac suggests the Motul, I just went with that this time. At the same time fedex misplaced my Fidanza friction kit for the flywheel, so that slows me down again. I don't have much luck with fidanza it seems like, as they also were no help in getting new flywheel bolts.


    In the meantime I figured I clean up my old motor mounts, 2003 will have 1 or 2 blown probably anyways plus the trans mount of course. On my 2001 I used to run Deyeme Racing fr & rr, they look good as new. Than when my engine side went I replaced that with a Prothane insert. I also have the stock 2002 mounts for comparison.






    Time to start on the trans mount: I originally left it alone as it was brand new, as the matter of fact it still looked great and didn't have a hairline crack even. Draining the fluid first...

    Than cut...

    Than cut again...

    ...and again...


    I went ahead and did the '02 rr and fr mount too while at it, as I actually had a full Prothane kit stashed away, and gave them a little shine.




    All done: engine side and trans side consist of two halfs, they are easy. The front and rear are a 1 piece design, managed to push it in by hand and a rubber mallet, while feeding the lip in with a flathead. Sidenote: the sleeve for the rr mount has an ID of 12mm, vs the OEM's 10mm, so it will need an extra sleeve. I'm using the Deyeme mounts for now anyways.




  15. #155
    Looking good. What did u shine them with??
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  16. #156
    Experienced TGC Member
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    Manvel Texas
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    Now that is some gooding looking mounts. CHINEY!!

  17. #157
    Thanks! Wetsanded 300/400/800/1000 than 3M polishing compound, by hand. Normally I would get rid of bigger casting marks with 120 on a dremel, than a 220 by hand first.

  18. #158
    The ACT disc arrived. My excitement quickly faded away as I opened the box... yepp, after measuring it, it's a solid 225mm. This should have been a 240mm disc, at least that is how it's advertised everywhere. The old ACT discs used to be built on the MZD069, my suspicion is that they switched to the factory 3G disc to save money. So this one went back to ACT, and I ordered yet another full Exedy Stage 1 set instead.



    Resolved another issue: when removing the flywheel I had to drill out one of the bolts. Fidanza was no help in sourcing replacements, but after some digging, found my answer on Club3G. Credit goes to Buddhalawton who has an impressive 75 build over there. I'm sure this info will be useful for others too, as the factory flywheel bolts are too short (fidanza supplies their kit with a set of longer ones).

    Flywheel bolts: ARP 254-2801
    Washers: ARP 200-8745
    Pressure Plate Bolts: ARP 101-2201 (why not while at it)


    Talking about Fidanza, Titanmotorsports was nice enough to send me a replacement for my first, lost package, and they made sure my friction plate arrived in time too. Great customer service!


    As there wasn't much I could do before emptying the garage, I started to mess with the Lancer shifter panel. Ended up cutting it and molding it into the 8g bezel. It will need to be filled, sanded and painted, but it's not on the top of my list right now, more of a time killer project for lonely nights.




    Best thing however is that the '02 got picked up today, and I can finally have the garage back! Tomorrow is dropping the AT day.

  19. #159
    Senior TGC Member DTP's Avatar
    Join Date
    06-16-2010
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    2,282
    Yes! I love this thread.... Good read. Check mine out if you haven't already.

    In for updates.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    -Andrew

  20. #160
    Yey, '03 is in the garage now. Now only if it could move on it's own lol...




    Dropped the transmission. This time I took it out from below while holding up the engine with the hoist. I was a little bit hesitant with not owning an actual transmission jack, but it worked just fine with my trusty alu one. Having a bunch of extra factory jacks came handy too. It looks like it's the TC this time that went bye.

    The thing that made me super mad: out all three cars this is the first time I have an axle frozen into the hub (ripped boots don't even surprise me). I had to undo the whole knuckle and the tie rod end was stuck too. Bought a new hub, I guess till the clutch makes it here I'll try to drill/cut/beat this thing up so I can at least have my knuckle back.

    Last edited by gtx; 02-04-2016 at 09:56 PM

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