Speed wobbles

[SNWFLK]

Lately I've been experiencing some speed wobbles at around 60mph and up. The car typically wobbles and stops for like 4 seconds then wobbles again, etc. Car also pulls to the right. I've replaced the tires, had them balanced, and even got the car aligned thinking it would fix it and nothing. Could this be from my shocks being blown? I know those need replacing but I'm just not sure if it could be tie rods, bushings, etc. Any tips?

[coconut]

Bad cv axles possibly. Are you lowered?

[Galantman03]

I know I have that issue, its the grooves in the road. They cut them vertical, instead of across the road like normal. Causes that issue with new tires

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[FooseGalant]

My lowered Galant did that also. Rebuilt the whole front end from the trans out to the valve caps. 19" rims and 235/40 Faulkens. Back to driving it like I stole it. Except for that nagging charging problem.

[SNWFLK]

Not lowered, yet. Want to fix this problem first before I install coils. I'm pretty sure in my case it's something on the car and not the roads. It constantly pulls to the right and I've had this car aligned 3 times within 2 months and everytime it's spot on but still pulls to the right. Wobbles regardless of the road, and comes and goes every few seconds and obviously becomes more noticeable over 60 mph

[FooseGalant]

Few things not alignment related that can cause the pull.
Dragging brake pad, wheel hub bearing or half shaft bearing; worn steering rack.

The wobbles can be caused by the wheel weights all being on one side of the zero offset. Most prevalent on custom wider rims. Add them up and you can have good vibs if the ride is sporting more then 100K miles. Blown shocks are a good start. Careful, it snowballs.

[SNWFLK]

I'm at 125k, need to check the other components then one by one. I'm not sure what it could be.

[4g63lover]

FooseGalant hit it on the head of what I was about to say

[RedGalant2k1]

Do you have the previous alignment specs? If so, would you mind posting them. I need to see all the specs including:

Left Side Front AND Rear:
Camber
Caster
Toe

Right Side Front AND Rear:
Camber
Caster
Toe




Once I see those I can tell you if your 'wobble' and 'right drift' are related or not.

[SNWFLK]

I don't have them at the moment. But if and when I get them I will post. Also, my tires wear out on the outer right side of the tread as well.

[oakrdrs187]

Outer wear is definitely alignment. Probably Toe.

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[RedGalant2k1]

Do you mean you right side tires wear on the outer edge?

If so, do you left side tires wear on the inner edge?

[SNWFLK]

No they both wear on the outer side just that the passenger side does it worse. Only in the front.

[RedGalant2k1]

Ok. There are probably a combination of issues including as mentioned a 'Toe-In' problem as well as a camber and/or caster issue as well. Please post your specs when you get them.

[SNWFLK]

Damn I sure will when I can, I notice when I look straight head on with my car that the front wheels poke inward.

[RedGalant2k1]

If you can physically SEE the wheels poking inward with your steering wheel straight then you definitely have a "Toe-In" problem. Visually the wheels should not seem inward at all. I've seen alignment shops not correctly align vehicles all the time. They must ensure that all specs are within, in this case, Mitsubishi recommendations, assuming your suspension is unmodified. This includes all four corners having proper Toe, Camber specs (including Total-Toe). The front having proper Caster specs (including Cross Caster, Steering Angle Inclination and Caster/Camber Roll).

Without the specs I'd guess you have these issues:

1) Even Caster side to side in front, if not lower caster on the right side
2) Toe-In too aggressive in front, likely not corrected for from the rear.
3) 0.0* degrees camber, possibly even slightly positive.

Caster only causes the vehicle to pull, it will not wear tires. Camber can cause tire wear and vehicle pulling to one side or another. Toe will only cause tire wear, will not cause the vehicle to pull. You also must ensure the vehicle is at its manufacturer recommended ride height for all those specifications to be completely accurate. Ride Height affects ALL alignment specifications.

[SNWFLK]

Ride height may be wrong on my car though due to the blown shocks. I'll have to google the specs to see how things are from the factory and then post them when I can. I've had it aligned at a dealer but I doubt they did a great job on it. I appreciate the help man I need to figure out why my brand new Falken tires wouldn't even last a year.

[RedGalant2k1]

Did you ever get handed a alignment specification sheet with the past three alignments you have done? If not, you should have. Otherwise you have no proof the alignment was even performed. If you do not have any alignment specs from those alignments, I'd ask for the last shop to buy you a new set of tires. In my professional career we ALWAYS provided a customer the alignment specification sheets regardless of them asking or not. You certainly have a Toe-In issue as to why your tires have worn so fast, but three alignments in 2 months is ridiculous. There is something that is going uncorrected by the service shop in EVERY CASE.

[SNWFLK]

That's true indeed. I got it done thru a family member who works at the dealer, they got it done for me as a favor but never received any paperwork on it because it cost me nothing each time. Get what you pay for I guess. I'll probably end up dishing out $100 or so and get it done professionally so that they can tell what's wrong if anything. Just wanted to get the input of people on the forum who drive the same thing I do basically.