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Thread: HOW TO: fixing hyperflash with LED bulbs

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    HOW TO: fixing hyperflash with LED bulbs

    this is a quick instructional on how to install load resistors to fix that annoying hyperflash problem. mods, feel free to sticky this. or feel free to erase it if it's been done already.


    as most of you know, when you install LED bulbs for your turn signals you will probably get hyperflash (that fast blinking you get when a turn signal bulb is out); i know the 9Gs do, so i'm assuming all the older models do, too.


    replacing the high-wattage incandescent bulbs with LEDs significantly drops the load in your turn signal circuit. very rarely (not sure if any generation GALANT is set up like this) the bulbs in the turn signal circuits at wired in parallel. this means that when one bulb is gone or replaced with an LED the wattage draw drops so the thermal element inside the flasher doesn't heat up. if the thermal flasher doesn't heat up then it can't cycle. what happens when you turn on your turn signal, they light up, but they stay lit because the thermal flasher never disconnects the circuit to cool down.


    installing resistors mimics the missing bulb(s) and allows a predetermined amount of current to pass through as it would if you retained your stock incandescent bulbs. if the flasher was meant to operate in an environment with a 50 watt load (two 25-watt bulbs) and you replace the two bulbs with a 50 watt resistor, the flasher won't know.


    wiring-wise, you just splice a resistor into each circuit (one for the left turn signal and one for the right turn signal). each resistor typically has one red wire and one black wire.





    on the left turn signal circuit find the two wires (they'll be next to one another) and splice the black resistor wire to the black/yellow wire and splice the red resistor wire to the green wire. on the right turn signal splice the red resistor wire to the gray wire. the absolute easiest way to do this is with a wire splice:





    slide the splice over an existing wire, slide the wire to be spliced in, and when you clamp it with pliers a metal piece cuts into both wires, thus joining them.


    as for the resistor part, you can find the load resistors at most any auto parts store. they also sell them for as low as $1 on eBay.


    depending on the size you're using, this particular one has black leads coming out of both side so you just wire one of the black leads to a positive side in the respective circuit. the direction of electrical flow doesn't matter for these resistors.


    the resistors can get hot (as the product of wasting current is heat) so i would suggest not mounting them directly to plastic. i would cut a small piece of sheet aluminum to mount them, to separate them from the plastic.


    resistor sizing depends on the load you're trying to replace. since each turn signal bulb is typically ~25 watts, if you're only replacing one bulb per circuit you only need to splice in one 25 watt resistor per circuit:





    if you're replacing both front and rear turn signals, then you are replacing a 50 watt load (per circuit) and the resistor required will have to be double the size:





    NOTE: there are only 2 turn signal circuits on a vehicle. you can mount the resistors anywhere and splice in near the front turn signals, the rear turn signals, next to the flasher, et cetera. so the front left turn signal and the rear left turn signal are literally the same circuit. hence, the wire colors to the front turn signals will match the wire colors going to the rear turn signals.


    and that's the bottom line, 'cause stone cold said so.
    Last edited by WEAPONS-GRADE; 07-08-2016 at 04:44 PM
    2005 LANCER EVOLUTION MR
    2012 GALANT SE

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