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Reply With Quoteits a good idea to install em both for the best handeling one in the front and one in the rear and these go under the car.
Ok, I got a question on these rear swaybars here that are for the 2000+ Eclipse. I know that 3G clipse and 8G galant are interchangable, but I want to know if this is a good package to get. obviously as you can see, there are 2 bars and they are for $130 total. i need to know where you guys think the smaller one would mount. I know that we cant put one in the trunk cuz there is not enough room, so I was wondering if I should just go with a single bar that would go under the rear or just get the package and maybe try to sell the small one or just throw it out. its seems to me like its a pretty good deal.
I know a lot of you dont think it woudl be worthwhile to get them on the rear, but this is my plan so just tell me what you think.
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its a good idea to install em both for the best handeling one in the front and one in the rear and these go under the car.
right on, thanks.
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you do not want to install the front bar. it actually deters from handling in extreme cornering. this is from http://www.RoadRaceEngineering.com ... they are experts in mitsubishi and do both rally and road racing cars.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/3gsuspension.htm
Suspension Techniques Rear Sway Bar $150
The stock GT rear sway bar is 20mm diameter, the ST rear bar is 22mm diameter. It includes new brackets and urethane bushings. The end links are a bearing type joint and give two adjustment positions for fine tuning.
This rear sway will make your car handle better by making it more "neutral". Stock, the factory gives you a car that "understeers" some. When you have the car all leaned over at the limits of adhesion, the front tires have a little less grip. The front end "pushes" some and does not turn enough. From instinct, you let off the gas because the car is not turning enough. This makes the weight transfer to the front of the car. The front end gets a little more grip and the rear a little less, your car rotates and you make the corner fine. All is good.
All is good except this is not the fast way to drive, having to let of the gas to make the car turn. It would be much faster around a corner if you could keep a nice steady throttle through the corner, gradually feeding in more throttle as you pass the apex and straighten out. The car would drift all four wheels evenly. Nice small inputs from the throttle transfer weight to the front or rear depending on where you want the car to be. A little more gas transfers the weight to the rear and the car goes wide, let off slightly and it sharpens up the corner. This is a neutral handling car. By installing a thicker rear sway bar (and leaving the front bar stock) you will make the car more neutral.
The down side, you need to be careful of what you wish for. If your car is nice and neutral, when you chop off the throttle suddenly the car can kick the tail out. The ST rear bar is made with a street car in mind. It is not a crazy stiff bar, it is even adjustable. There are 2 adjustment positions. It will make the car more neutral though and you need to keep this in mind. If you add a front bar, the car will corner flatter and give you a false sense of better handling. Also the bigger front bar will lift the inside front tire when cornering hard. This will give you less traction just when you need it most. We do not offer a front sway bar.
Will the 3g rear sway bar even fit the 8g? And if so how many milimeters is that bar 20 or 22?
I Shook You At The Track, My Boyz Threw Asprin On The Floor, They Said Now You Gotta Headache...
The illiterate of the twenty-first century will not be those who can not read or write, but those who can not learn, un-learn and re-learn.
It should fit. Ive heard other people talking about getting it, thats why i also heard lots of people dont think they really work. i just needed to know where that 2nd one would be going. and judging by the post before yours says, i think the 2nd smaller one will stay off of my car.Originally Posted by Kemist aka Shane
the stock eclipse one is 20mm and the "Suspension Techniques" (ST) sway bar is 22mm
so i will try to find out if the one Im looking at is 20 or 22 mm today or tomorrow.
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ok check this out...
i called the www.aftermarketsuperstore.com and they said that the one they have is actually made by Suspension Techniques! right on. and he also said that it is only the rear one, (makes sense, since S.T. said they dont make a front sway bar). he said the reason was it was the only pic that was on Suspension Techniques website, so thats all they could do. so thats cool. no more guessing.
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okay well that makes sense then.. but im still pretty curious if we can use the 3g rear swaybar.. and you said that it is 20mm..guess i gotta break out the measuring tape..
I Shook You At The Track, My Boyz Threw Asprin On The Floor, They Said Now You Gotta Headache...
The illiterate of the twenty-first century will not be those who can not read or write, but those who can not learn, un-learn and re-learn.
MOCHANGES has the rear bar on his car. there is some banging to the spare tire well you have to do w/ a hammer on the 8g to push it out of the way for the bar to fit w/o hitting. to my knowledge, ST is the only bar for the 3G and nobody has made one yet for the 8G.
In theory Norcal is having one made for the 8G. I am on that Group Buy. The ST Swaybar for the rear for the eclipses does require banging the wheel well. I'm told it's not so bad and leaves room for the spare donut to still fit. As was written above you don't want the larger front bar. MAJOR hassle installing and degraded performance. The GTZ actually has a smaller front swaybar than the ES V6 as it delivers more neutral handling w/ the stock rear bar (19 or 20 as I recall). If the Norcal deal falls through I'm definitely going that route.
I do have it on my car, it was my first suspension mod (after strut tower brace) and damn it is a good one. It makes a huge difference. It is a really easy bolt on project EXCEPT that you have to "move" or remove a part of the rear jack point in order to install the bar. This "moving" took the longest time, otherwise it's a 15-20 minute job. If you have airtools or a grinder, I suggest you use that to cut a notch in the jack point.
-Mohammad
first of all, I'd say the Norcal deal has already fallen through. just like the "white bodykit" and "Galant specific CF hood" and the "What would you like to see made?" and the"custom 99-01 grill piece" and, and, and... Basically everything they have ever tried to do for us is ou the window. they said it would take about 2-3 months tops. it has now taken 6. also, watching their post and starting on page 1--talk about swaybar, then jump to page 7--talk about an f'in turbo and all kinds other B.S.
if Im wrong then please correct me, but from what I remember, nothing has been done or said on these swaybars since April. (I looked it up about 2 days ago and thats as far as i read. and now I cant find that post).
anyway, I dont mean to bash Norcal, but all Ive seen are things going under with them, so I really dont have any other reference.
I wont be buying this for about another month or so, but for now my sights will be set on the clipse bar, unless Norcal can finally pull thru on a G.B.
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I wouldn't put any stock in Norcal either, but no point in beating that dead horse.
However, I did install the OBX Lower tie rod bar. It's relatively cheap and really makes a major difference. Look in the aftermarket review forum for details. It grips like crazy and made as much difference as the STB on my car. Body roll is almost non existent with this combination and my H&R springs.
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
Are the OBX lower tie-rod bars made for the Galant specifically? Or are they still the ones for the Eclipse? Probably the Eclipse. Or else we would not be having Norcal make us one.
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A tie rod bar is not the same as a sway bar, I wasn't sure that was clear, but just in case. A sway bar will have way more of an impact on how your car handles than a tie rod bar will.
The ST sway bar makes the car oversteer more, in our car, pushes it closer to neutral handling.
A tie rod bar is supposed to stiffen up some areas under the chassis, I think two main suspension points.
Again, they are not the same thing and the bigger impact will come from the swaybar.
-Mohammad
do you think you could get a pic of what you had to cut away from the rear jack point. I have no problem to cut it, but I just want to see where it is that I need to cut.
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I will try and get pics.
-Mohammad
knightriderXXX, did you ever get the part you were lookin for..
I Shook You At The Track, My Boyz Threw Asprin On The Floor, They Said Now You Gotta Headache...
The illiterate of the twenty-first century will not be those who can not read or write, but those who can not learn, un-learn and re-learn.
na, i dont have enought money right now. LOL plus mochanges never showed me pics
damn, i forgot about this thread too
haha. oh well. maybe im a month or 2 or 3 or 4. whatever LOL
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They actually sell the 2gen eclipse rear lower tie rods on ebay pretty cheap.. i saw the same oBX one mochanges and laz have for like 45 shipped..already bought the rear lower and front upper strut in the past hours, i wonder if they make a rear upper? hummmna, i dont have enought money right now. LOL plus mochanges never showed me pics
damn, i forgot about this thread too
haha. oh well. maybe im a month or 2 or 3 or 4. whatever LOL
I Shook You At The Track, My Boyz Threw Asprin On The Floor, They Said Now You Gotta Headache...
The illiterate of the twenty-first century will not be those who can not read or write, but those who can not learn, un-learn and re-learn.
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