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Thread: Question on turbo for I4 galant

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  1. #21
    About 7g question - the answer is yes - since exhaust manifold is connected to the cylinder head and our motors and 4g63 series engines have the same bolt pattern and exhaust ports it will work on all 4g64 motors and 4g63.
    Check out my ride at:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/djgalant

    The only 8g west cost 4g64 Turboed Galant.

  2. #22
    about the grill - yeah i just took it off for the pic.

    I hate our 8g chrome grilles.
    Check out my ride at:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/djgalant

    The only 8g west cost 4g64 Turboed Galant.

  3. #23
    cdaw2001ES
    Guest
    could you post - or post a link, to your install, or particualr I'd like to see how much space the turbo and IC, piping take up and how they are run

  4. #24
    For more pics visit my web site .
    Address in signature.


    Check out my ride at:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/djgalant

    The only 8g west cost 4g64 Turboed Galant.

  5. #25
    hey DJ were did you tap for the oil feed and return line i was checking the eclipse board but nobody had any good pics thats the only thing holdin me back and where to place the blowoff valve cuz i heard people havin problems with venting it
    "run your car, not your mouth"


    http://www.norcal-performance.com

  6. #26
    use a high quality line bro. I don't really have any pics of the oil feed.
    For the return line I put a fitting in my oil pan. I don't have pics of that nor i have the pics of the oi feed.

    As far as the BOV goes defeniately somewhere on your your upper intecooler pipe between the end tank and the throttle body. Mine is located in the middle.
    Check out my ride at:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/djgalant

    The only 8g west cost 4g64 Turboed Galant.

  7. #27
    thanks for the info i have another question about your bov what kind are you using and is it vented and if so do you have any problems with the car dying?
    "run your car, not your mouth"


    http://www.norcal-performance.com

  8. #28
    ken inn
    Guest
    the turbo oil return line MUST be above the oil level in the sump. turbo return oil is in a "foamy" state, and if you return it below the oil level, you will have foamy oil going into the pump pickup, and critical surfaces like bearings will NOT be properly lubed.
    if you run the stock karman mas, you must reroute the bov back into the intake, because the air that is "blown" out of the bov has already been counted and fuel added for this air, and the car will run rich and die between shifts if the bov is vented to atmosphere. you can defeat this by eliminating the mas. examples are the maft translator, using the gm hotwire mas, or the hks vpc. on my car, i installed a dejon tools short metal intake tube, and now the stock bov(properly crushed, w/the dejon valve) is VERY loud. although lots of ricers like to have a loud bov, i dont.

  9. #29
    i don't consider myself a ricer - but i love loud bov. I am venting into atmosphere myslef and car used to idle like shit befor, but when the BOV was adjusted all the problems were gone.
    At the beggining the car (when i first put a turbo on it) - the car used to stall a lot. We fixed this problem by replacing clamps and hoses cuz for some reason my IC pipe was comming off at the throttle body due to the pressure.
    I am using Apex'i Twin Chamber BOV - very good qualityaftermarket valve. It is fully adjustable - and something for u kenn - u can adjust the sound of it.
    I was thinking of putting gm sensor myself too. They flow pretty good according to a friend of mine, and he adjusted the knobs inside to the point where he doesn't use SAFC on his 91 eagle talon turbo.

    I had stalling problems due to venting into atmosphere till i installed SFAC. I adjusted the idle then, and all the problems were gone.
    Check out my ride at:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/djgalant

    The only 8g west cost 4g64 Turboed Galant.

  10. #30
    fstrthnu
    Guest
    The apexi s-afc has a mode you can enable if you want to vent into the atmosphere so you don't have idle probs...don't know from personal expereince but will by the end of the week... :twisted:

  11. #31
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ken inn)</div><div class='quotemain'>you can defeat this by eliminating the mas. Â*examples are the maft translator, using the gm hotwire mas, or the hks vpc. Â*on my car, i installed a dejon tools short metal intake tube, and now the stock bov(properly crushed, w/the dejon valve) is VERY loud.</div>

    ok for the most part i understand this but can you please explain the different methods of eliminating the MAS? because i would prefer not to crush a brand new expensive BOV
    "run your car, not your mouth"


    http://www.norcal-performance.com

  12. #32
    ken inn
    Guest
    ok for the most part i understand this but can you please explain the different methods of eliminating the MAS? because i would prefer not to crush a brand new expensive BOV[/quote]

    afaik, only the 1g STOCK bov is crushed. the reason is the spring inside is a bit weak, and when running hi boost levels, it will start to leak. PROPERLY crushing it increases tension on the spring, and it then will hold pressure well beyond 20 lbs boost. even the 2g cars can benefit from the 1g bov, since the 2g bov is plastic, and really sucks.
    the afc i have will NOT compensate for lost air thru the bov. i dont have the very latest version with the toggle switch, but i dont see how that would work, because you would have to set the rpm that it opens at, and that changes with every shift.

  13. #33
    fstrthnu
    Guest
    Ok...I did some researcing and found out that the s-afc DOES have a function to stop the problem with open air BOV's....BUT, it only works on cars with hot wire air flow meters...we have karman type MAS. So how do you go about ridding this problem on our cars???

  14. #34
    BuddyLeeX
    Guest
    I might get a 2000 galant inline 4. This post has been helpful. I saw the link with the turbo list http://4g64.150m.com/turbo2.html

    posted by djgalant.

    If all I need is that stuff on that list, I can get it from my friend who has like 3 eclipses and has been racing them for a while now and he has pretty much all of that in his garage that he would sell to me.

    Also, the engine is stock, I guess im gonna need some better pistons, rods, then of course intake, and catback.

  15. #35
    HiperSilver
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ken inn)</div><div class='quotemain'>the turbo oil return line MUST be above the oil level in the sump. Â*turbo return oil is in a "foamy" state, and if you return it below the oil level, you will have foamy oil going into the pump pickup, and critical surfaces like bearings will NOT be properly lubed. Â*
    Â* Â* if you run the stock karman mas, you must reroute the bov back into the intake, because the air that is "blown" out of the bov has already been counted and fuel added for this air, and the car will run rich and die between shifts if the bov is vented to atmosphere. Â*you can defeat this by eliminating the mas. Â*examples are the maft translator, using the gm hotwire mas, or the hks vpc. Â*on my car, i installed a dejon tools short metal intake tube, and now the stock bov(properly crushed, w/the dejon valve) is VERY loud. Â*although lots of ricers like to have a loud bov, i dont.</div>


    sometimes a myth abotu recirc. I know guys with 2g's running open ATM on a HKS SSQV and i know people doing the same with a 1g. 1g stalls out, 2g runs fine... But yea. if ur a ricer you will open ATM , if u know shit ull recirc.

    Not to mentio using a VPC or Standalone to eliminate the mas is expensive as shit. As for what BOV to use. stock 1st gen is good for around 24 psi

  16. #36
    mark1
    Guest
    personally i would go with a supercharger system. a lil more cash but definately more reliable in most cases and more low end torque which anyone who drives an auto four cyl galant should be craving. top end doesnt mean shit if you can't beat a five speed civic off the line. i like all around driveablility thats why i wuold go with a supercharger. yes the upgradeability is greater with turbo but if you are only looking for a 15 flat or so car, supercharga is the way to go imo.

  17. #37
    8ggalant
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mark1)</div><div class='quotemain'>personally i would go with a supercharger system. Â*a lil more cash but definately more reliable in most cases and more low end torque which anyone who drives an auto four cyl galant should be craving. Â*top end doesnt mean shit if you can't beat a five speed civic off the line. Â*i like all around driveablility thats why i wuold go with a supercharger. Â*yes the upgradeability is greater with turbo but if you are only looking for a 15 flat or so car, supercharga is the way to go imo.</div>

    i have beat 5 spd civics off the line...and with the same extra amount of money u spent to get sds...plus installation and tuning....u can get a home built turbo kit...rebuilt bottem end (for "reliability") and u can pretty much istall and base tune yourself....IMO

  18. #38
    HiperSilver
    Guest
    i4 turbo
    v6 SC

    with 2.4 of displacement torque really isnt that neccesary, our motors make decent torque. And with a fwd car u really dont want something that will give you INSTANT power. Makes it very very difficult to launch. As for turbos, by the time its spooled you have traction, it just works that way...and i dont feel like changing pullies everytime i want more boost.

  19. #39
    don't think just because you have traction now that you'll have it later. if i floor it at 3000rpm or earlier in 2nd gear, i'll have traction, but as soon as it hits around 4500rpm and my turbo spools all the way, i lose traction.

  20. #40
    cdaw2001ES
    Guest
    racelogic traction control system?

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