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Reply With Quote35psi holy shit
ok i was talking to turbogalant and he gave me a site to look at about turbo parts....www.barnonemotorsports.com[img] these guys/gals r good...check em out herrs a letter they wrote me in response to a question i had about pistons for our app
Hi Kevin !
Wiseco doesn't yet make pistons for your 3G version (reversed) 4g64
engine, but that's NOT a problem ! The pistons you'll need have the
intake and exhaust valve reliefs on opposite sides from the earlier 4g64
motors & to my knowledge, they (Wiseco) haven't made any for this
version engine yet.
We custom order our pistons from Wiseco & can get them in any
compression ratio, pin position, valve pocket sizing needed, and with
any size overbore desired for $475 per set, including rings, pins &
pin locks ! It would indeed matter which head you'd be using, as the
valves are in a slightly different position between the SOHC and DOHC
versions. We'd just need to know which head you're using before
ordering your pistons to make sure & supply you with the correct set.
We also offer the pistons in a dual ceramic coated version with a heat
barrier coating applied (by Polydne Coatings, Wisecos coatings vendor of
choice) to the dome areas (adds up to 10 times the protection against
damage from detonation) & a secondary oil receptive coating applied to
the piston skirt areas to resist cylinder bore scuffing. These 2
coatings add very valuable and attractive features to a piston set
already recognized by many as some of the highest quality in the
aftermarket.
We're currently seeking a Galant or Eclipse owner wanting a turbo
conversion for their 3G version 4g64. We are located outside Dallas in
Garland, Tx. and would make a very attractive installation price
available for anyone looking for a Bar None turbo conversion.
Having looked at some of the 3G turbo kits available, we feel ours would
offer the potential for more boost and a safer overall package than what
seems currently available for these motors. Of course for those willing
to build a solid bottom end assembly, the boost top limit would become
even more appealing, on the order of 35 psi !!!
If yourself, or any other 3G 4g64 owner is interested, just contact me
at my personal addy : [email protected] & we can discuss this
in more detail.
Kim Steele
lookin 4 a tx member to do an install on...btw...therr 64 block can boost up to 35lbs of boost safely :shock: [/img]
35psi holy shit
Sounds promising..
I Shook You At The Track, My Boyz Threw Asprin On The Floor, They Said Now You Gotta Headache...
The illiterate of the twenty-first century will not be those who can not read or write, but those who can not learn, un-learn and re-learn.
Sounds good. Whoever lives in TX and wants a Turbo should jump on it.
damn i wish they were in GA
8) After the complimentary things I've read here about us, thanks BTW ! I thought it might be a good idea to post some exerpts from an email I sent another member who'd inquired about turbo info for his 4g64 to make sure my 35psi statement wasn't taken out of context.
Here it is:
We've yet to have found a Mitsu block incapable of handling the 35 psi boost figure I stated in the email you mentioned. Rest assured however, this type package is not for the faint of heart or shallow of pocket, as such a package and the supporting mods are quite expensive to assemble, and honestly would be a "Race Only" package :>) I included that figure to show the capability exists for such a combination, but in no way meant it could be achieved with anything stock except the block and crank, EVO Vlll DOHC head, along with the water pump & timing belt accesories themselves, as every other part would of necessity be acquired from aftermarket suppliers.
With a 4g64 stock head / block assy. we feel the top safe HP limit to be somewhere hovering around the 300HP range, depending on the owners willingness to acquire the parts to achieve this target, of course.
With a stock block / EVO Vlll DOHC head combination, the achieveable HP figure would increase somewhat from that figure. However, at this point the stock pistons are the limiting factor as they are so thin in the dome areas that the boost still has to be kept to a low limit (by our standards:>) of 10 psi.
With a fully built shortblock assy (forged rods / forged pistons / better bearings) and the EVO Vlll head assy. the output figures for a daily driven 4g64 could easily reach 500HP with the proper supporting mods, but again requires a hefty investment to reach such a goal.
Though we do build race motors, our main focus is on high HP daily driven street cars. Race cars are sweet & though capable of amazing HP figures and blazing 1/4 mile times, most people actually want a car capable of amazing performance, while still being daily driven. The biggest trap most modders fall into is assembling a drag car motor & then trying to drive it daily. This typically yields a lot of down time on the vehicle and a package that is so "tweaky" it is pretty miserable to drive on a daily basis. This makes a lot of aftermarket suppliers rich and happy, but seldom the car owner :>(
We have looked at many combinations available utilizing a mixed bag of parts from the 4g61, 4g63, 4g64 & g4cs engines inventories and do so as needed to get what ever goal we are seeking to achieve in a particular engine package. Mitsu being a wonderful help in all this by making so many varied assemblies possible, it's really just a matter of selecting the proper set of parts to get many different combinations.
Our base engine philosophy falls into 2 main categories : If you want a rev it to the hills package, stick with the 4g61 or 4g63s as the building blocks for the package, OR if your goal is a high torque street car with a lower overall revability, then the 4g64 or g4cs is the best starting point. It's all a matter of what is desired by the customer as to which path is taken. We counsel our customers as best we can from what they determine it is they want to achieve in their package, then assemble the supporting parts / mods from that discussion, always with the focus being durability and daily driveability, unless they are building a race engine :>)
I understand the concerns you mentioned regarding the 4g64s stock rod angles and the piston velocities these incorporate into the engines operating parameters, along with the nasty externally rodded engines this can lead to. If the proper selection of engine is suited to the purpose of the overall package, such occurances can be avoided, or at least lessened in their frequency.
The 4g64 is not by nature an engine that "likes" to see the same high revs the 4g63s or 4g61s do, but can be easily revved to around 7400 rpm with the proper parts, while yielding a turbo engine that will spool a turbo like no 4g61 or 4g63 can & have a much better powerband for daily driving, making it a blast to drive.
If your focus is higher Rs, there are also a multitude of possibilities while using the 4g64, but these will entail 4g61, 4g63 or aftermarket cranks, longer rods and itty bitty piston combinations . A 4g64 block with a 4g61 crank, requisetly longer rods and shorter pistons could easily net an engine capable of 10,000 - 12,000 rpm, although there would likely be little power below about 8,000 rpm. Then the question becomes who would want such a high revving package & afterall, it certainly would not a very streetable set up, so what is the point ??
Like I mentioned earlier, it's all about what someone wants their engine TO do, more than it is about which particular engine platform to work from. At Bar None, we seek to assist our customers in achieving whatever their goals are, with whatever combination best suits that goal. We like ALL the Mitsu turbo motors and what they are capable of, so we don't limit ourselves to any one of them, as they all serve different purposes :>)
Afterall, the only thing a performance engine builder can offer their customers, outside of their building expertise and craftsmanship, is the knowledge they can share to help them make more informed choices to achieve their intended goals :>)
Hope the above info helps
haha...u guys are gonna fuck around and make me take orders to tx hahaha....and i already told my wife i was 'almost done' spendin money on the g..
you know i always hear peeps sayin that the 4g64 motor has alot of potentail but damn now im startin to beleive it
i wonder how much of an investment he is talking 5 grand, 10 grand??? i am willing to spend up to over 10 grand in making my G fast but it's got to be daily driver and running at least 12's. and most importantly durable maening i will be able to drive the hell out of it with the right maintinence for a while but that's probably just Not possible. fast cars( being driven fast) and reliablilty dont go together.( at least i dont think so)
shyt...realize part of that 10k has to go to a built tranny and probly some sort of lsd...but hell with 5k into a motor...u should be at least in the low 13 to high 12 imo
8) Here's a bit more to whet ya'lls Boosted HP whistles with
To reach the 300HP level I mentioned using your stock internals and head assy, our base parts list , meaning the least it would take to safely reach this level and make a truly reliable daily driven package in terms of parts / mods, would come to roughly $6000 including the installation and initial tuning in of the package .
While the other kits we've seen available are well below that figure, they lack several of the main pieces we feel are required to round out such a package and make it as dependable as we'd prefer for any turbo package we'd assemble for a customer.
Our set up includes an ECU and ECU controlled knock sensor system, which we feel is an absolute must for use with a Mitsu turbo engine. Mitsu makes one of the finest ECU controlled knock systems on the planet & their bean counters had a large enough hand in insuring the motors would safely see the end of their warranties by using this system on all their factory turbo offerings. We feel it is absolutely paramount to do the same for our turbo packages.
Another important feature in our kit is the FMIC and IC piping these motors literally beg for when turboed. I've seen turbo kits with no provision at all for an IC & wonder WTF these guys are smokin ? My suggestion to anyone tryin to assemble turbo kits without an IC is that they might do well to invest in some better quality crack, since the cheap shit they're smokin is obviously not doin 'em right
Our 1st turboed 2.4s were built using the stock SMICs from the earlier DSMs & heat soaked them with a quickness under hard acceleration. Actually, they heat soaked so quickly, that by the end of a 1st thru 4th gear hard pull, their ECUs would begin to retard timing from the dramatic increase in intake temps. Not something very conducive to making good reliable HP.
Since these SMIC's were designed for an engine (4g63t's) with 20% less displacement and are prone to heat soaking even at that level, we always use a much larger FMIC & custom BNM IC pipe set for all our 2.4's since these earlier versions, as we feel this is the only way to go with a 2.4 turbo set up .
Our kit also includes the other ancillary items we feel are required to monitor, tune and handle the new HP you'll be seeing from your newly boosted toy. This means a boost gauge, EGT gauge, S-SAFC ll, manual boost controller, upgraded fuel pump, larger injectors, external oil cooler, larger capacity aluminum radiator and a significantly upgraded clutch / pressure plate assy are also included in our kit.
We feel that every piece mentioned above is an absolute "must have" item to safely produce the kind of HP these motors are capable of, while keeping the future down time of your ride to a minimum. "Broke" HP toys just outright suck, so our focus is always on the most attainable HP with a constant attention being paid to overall reliability
There's few sights more depressing to a gear head than walkin outta the house & seeing his broken toy sittin in the driveway / garage / under the carport & then headin out to the "beater" instead of gettin into his preferred ride
Now then, onto what we feel is the right way to get safely insane HP figures from your stock block / head assy. 4g64 :twisted: :twisted:
Take the same exact parts listed above & put together a purpose built short block assy with all the right parts, meaning forged pistons, forged rods, ARP head studs, a high quality engine bearing set, new high volume oil pump assy & gear set, fresh water pump, and a gasket set & go out and make 400 daily driven streetable HP !
The costs for one of our BNM "built" 3G 4g64 short block assys. is $2950 and will safely add an additional 25% in capable HP production, while still using the stock block and head assy. !
For those still thirsty for serious gains above the 400 HP benchmark, the price gets waaay on out there, since an EVO Vlll head, bigger valves, aftermarket cam sets, bigger turbo, bigger injectors, larger capacity fuel system, lightened crank assy, crank scraper, built tranny, stiffer clutch assy. & drive axles are all needed to both get and hold this type of HP.
At this level, just about everything becomes a custom purpose built assy. & that means a big investment is required to achieve this goal, while still being reliable & streetable.
Anyway, just thought I'd put forth a few more details on "how" to reach the HP goals I mentioned earlier & give ya'll somethin to think about !
like isaid im movin to tx
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(8ggalant)</div><div class='quotemain'>like isaid im movin to tx Â*</div>
Headache, likes more power.. can we car pool.. Where were these guyz like 2 years ago, when i turned my first motor to soup.. I could have been at like 450hp almost a year ago, with no issues, and saved myself several thousand dollars, damn the luck i say.. Damn the luck..
I Shook You At The Track, My Boyz Threw Asprin On The Floor, They Said Now You Gotta Headache...
The illiterate of the twenty-first century will not be those who can not read or write, but those who can not learn, un-learn and re-learn.
hook me up on a price and were to go and I'll be there I have 2001 ES auto I4. how soon
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(david)</div><div class='quotemain'>hook me up on a price and were to go and I'll be there I have 2001 ES auto I4. how soon</div>
8) If you're talkin to me, there's a bit of pertinent info we need to sort thru before we can proceed.
Anyone interested in getting a BNM turbo conversion, please include the following info & send it to my personal addy @ [email protected] :
1.Model / year car
2. Engine and any current mods
3. Transmission type
4. A brief description of what you're desiring done (what level of modification, simple conversion, conversion + a built short block, conversion + built short block w/DOHC head, or all out drag car )
and what you expect from the finished project.
With the above info & the private discussions that will follow, we'll sort thru what will be best suited to achieve your goals.
And please, only those truly interested in doing a conversion respond. If you're simply interested in information on how to do this yourself, please invest the 20+ years I have in engine modifications & then proceed
Originally Posted by leadfoot
Well hopefully by spring you will eb able to see what my new motor can do. 4g64 block 8:1 JE pistons, pauter rods, 2.0 litre (86mm i think) crank, EVO VIII DOHC head swap, T3/4 ball bearing turbo @27lbs, then the other lil shit, valves, springs, stage 2 turbo cams, yada yada yada. I should have my 5 speed swap done (praying) before the new year. I wanna get the stock motor working with the tranny nice before i try hooking the tranny up to a beast. My local DSM guy tells me that out of the mods listed and some tuning im gonna be running high 10's - low 11's
and pushing around 530 whp. Now to see if we can get these wheels to stay on the ground.....hmmmm..... thats another issue. by the way all of the motor parts listed, plus some labor from my mechanic (i cant do it all myself, lack of facilities and tools) im looking at $5,500 for everything.
99' Galant ES
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
juss so u kno...stock mitsu trannys start turnin to soup around 350-400whp
m/t or a/t start turning to soup at those hp ratings? i thought the autos start at around 220 or so ish from what i've read so far in the post, the main reason i haven't even though about turboing or s/c my I4.
later,
mike
2002 Galant ES - I4, Viynl Interior by P
Pioneer AVH-P5700 DVD, RF P4004, RF P8002, 2-Infinity 12" Perfect 12.1DV Subs
Lightning Audio Digital Capacitor
Infinity Speakers,GTZ Spoiler, Ractive E-brake, Chrome Door Handles, CF Armrest
Freedom Design Strut Bar, Cleared Corners
KUMHO 711 Tires, CF Interior Trim
yer right autos usally after around 250-300 according to the dealership
damn now im starting to forget the SDS theme and thinking about going for the EVOVIII head swap with new pistons's rod's and such. how much is the set up going to run you?
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