cross drilled/slotted rotors???

[2k2mitsu]

so my brakes keep sqeaking bad...went to the shop and its not my brakes , its my rotors there is a "glaze" on them from all the dust caused by my rims...what is the best way to go? cross drilled/ slotted rotors? what is the difference and what is better? will this help my problem? will it stop the sqeaking? itll prob look 10 times better....what about the best place to get em?ive searched, but not sure where to go..thanks guys....

[akiraflux]

www.irotors.com has some good prices...ebay is also the other option.

[2k2mitsu]

so does anyone know if these new rotors will stop the noise? thats really the only reason i want to buy em....

[krazienluv10]

maybe resurfacing, but im buying new rotors right now... have the same problem as u... debating if i should try either or... if it dont work im out some money that could of went to rotors... :?

keep your rotors clean from now on. Buy a $1 can of carb cleaner (it's the same stuff as brake cleaner, but cheaper), and every day or two, spray down the entire rotor, including the area under the pad, so you will have to rotate your wheel slightly. That's what I do. One can should last you 5 cleanings.

[krazienluv10]

1 can 5 cleanings... man.... i used 1 can on 1 wheel it was soo dirty...

1 can 5 cleanings... man.... i used 1 can on 1 wheel it was soo dirty...

don't spray the wheels with that stuff, ever...just lightly spray like once or twice all around the rotor, then roll the car back and do it again. You should only have the button down for like 2 seconds or so. If you do it regularly you won't have a problem with them getting so dirty. The dirt and stuff will stain your driveway though, so put down some newspaper if you're concerned.

[krazienluv10]

my bad on 1 rotor but ya thanks

[2k2mitsu]

so will the carb cleaner stop the squeaking? or will it just stop it from getting worse??

[xSILENTx]

Call up Brembo and get some cross drilleds there like 80 a peice i think.I forget how much mine were.

[2k2mitsu]

did u have the same problem? and did it stop the noise?what do u have? cross drilled ? slotted? and what finishes do they have? do they have a silver or chrome? sorry for all the q's..just curious and uninformed...

[xSILENTx]

yea i had the smae problem so i got cross drilleds and ceramic pads came out to about 200 or so but i installed them myself.It did stop the niose and the ceramic pads have a light colored brake dust so your wheels wont get black shit all over them.

[tolowbass]

yo i got brembo drilled and slotted rotors from http://www.raceconcepts.net/list.php?section=rotorfor like 120 plus shipping

[Willy Liu]

Slotted or drilled ????
slotted rotors maintain approx. 96% of the friction surface
drilled rotors maintain approx. 85-93% of the friction surface
drilled and slotted only maintain 80-91% of the friction surface

For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".

Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.

the process of drilling rotors and slotting rotors was done for 1 reason and 1 reason only it is to disipate the gases that build up between the pad and the rotor which occurs under extreme heat ( when braking very aggressively like on a road course) and it has absolutely nothing to do with heat disipation. the only way to transfer more heat away is by using a larger heat sink which means use of a larger rotor whether in diameter or thickness. Since the caliper will only allow for a certain rotor thickness that solution is not very applicable because, if you are changing tha caliper opening width you might as well get a larger rotor diameter at that time

[2k2mitsu]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Willy Liu)</div><div class='quotemain'>Slotted or drilled ????
slotted rotors maintain approx. 96% of the friction surface
drilled rotors maintain approx. 85-93% of the friction surface
drilled and slotted only maintain 80-91% of the friction surface

For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".

Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.

the process of drilling rotors and slotting rotors was done for 1 reason and 1 reason only it is to disipate the gases that build up between the pad and the rotor which occurs under extreme heat ( when braking very aggressively like on a road course) and it has absolutely nothing to do with heat disipation. the only way to transfer more heat away is by using a larger heat sink which means use of a larger rotor whether in diameter or thickness. Since the caliper will only allow for a certain rotor thickness that solution is not very applicable because, if you are changing tha caliper opening width you might as well get a larger rotor diameter at that time</div>
so getting new rotors will not do me any good and over time they will squeak too???

[Willy Liu]

Squeak? get some Stop Brake Squeal "Squeal Medic it works for me.