Need advice...7g + turbo...

[seth98esT]

Now that I have decided on doing a 1g 6bolt swap, next question is WIRING Harness.

Craig, you rewired your stock harness correct? Ive been told to stick to 1g harness and ecu and use obdI, but ive also been told that is a lot more work. then by a few other people ive been told to rewire my stock and use a 2g ecu.

What would be easiest guys? I dont nkow what to do...

[sabzi5858]

don't count on turbo lag helping with traction.. if i floor it in 1st or 2nd gear, i lose traction after the turbo spools, 4000rpm or whatever until redline, in 3rd gear, it loses traction from turbo spool until about 5000rpm.. sure i don't lose traction at 3000rpm if i floor it while cruising in 2nd gear, but as soon as that turbo spools up, bye bye traction.. my point is, slow spool may save you from losing traction early, but once you get too much power, you'll lose traction anyways.

i'm not on steelies, i have 14" american racing alloys (don't ask, they came on the car, it was used) but i am on skinnies (185)for the time being.

i would love to have a LSD, but i doubt it would help me in 1st or 2nd gear, 3rd gear it would most likely help as that is just a bit of wheelspin, but 1st and 2nd gear is just spin as in power spin, as in nothing short of wide as hell drag radials or slicks could help. i'm pretty sure both tires were spinning, i raced a teg and was passing him while my tires were spinning, and had no problem with torque steer.

so yeah, don't count on having perfect traction unless you plan on going to awd and slicks and maybe breaking some parts

[8ggalant]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sabzi5858)</div><div class='quotemain'>
i'm not on steelies, i have 14" american racing alloys (don't ask, they came on the car, it was used) but i am on skinnies (185)for the time being.

</div>

sorre :oops: ....hey sabzi...was my calculation correct...is yer turbo a lil bigger than a big 16g???

[sabzi5858]

hmm, i believe it's somewhere between a 16g and 20g.. i believe 54lbs/min, i don't remember exactly, agpturbo stopped making them

[Stewi]

Hey Sabzi have you dyno'ed your car yet ? I wanna know how much HP your running? Im gonna have around 500 at the wheels so me traction for me is gonna be a HUGE issue. It shouldnt be too bad though, just gotta make sure I got my good tires on and my suspension tweaked just right.

[seth98esT]

Tractions tips:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>All Wheel Drive T/E/L Â*
Hold the RPM at 4500 while sitting on the line, and then slip the clutch out very quickly while adding throttle at the same rate.
Credited to: David Buschur [email protected]
Front Wheel Drive T/E/L Â*
Well, there's been some talk recently about how to get the FWDs to hook-up at the line. Aside from spending big bucks converting to an AWD system, there are a few things you can do to get somewhat respectable 60' times at the track. Here's what *I* think (cocky college kid mode ON):
First of all, it's very important to have tires with tread on them (as I found out last weekend :-( ). Seriously though, the tires you choose to run are EXTREMELY important. Throw out those GT+4's and get a nice set of performance tires. It seems that as far as street tires go, the Dunlop SP8000's, and Goodyear GS-C's are pretty sticky tires that will give you decent all-season performance. I currently have some Dunlop D40M2's, and although they lasted a long time and I've had numerous 2.0-2.1 60' times with them, they just break away too easily. I'm currently in the process of getting myself some BFG R1 tires, but I don't expect them to last over 10K miles on the street. After more than 100 runs, I'm pretty confident that sub-2.0 60' times are just not possible with your typical "street" tire. I'll see what both R1 and slicks can do at the ShootOut! While I'm on the subject of tires, inflation is key to getting the power to the ground. At the track, I've experimented with tire pressures in front from 10lbs to 30lbs. If the pressure is too high, you'll just sit and spin and hop. If it's too low, you'll lose optimal contact with the track, and it will slow you down at higher speeds. I've found that the best pressures are around 15lbs in the front, and 55lbs in the rear (reduces drag). Now we get to weight transfer. What you want to do is keep as much of the weight in the front of the car when launching. I'm sure you've noticed that the front wheels seem to lift up under hard acceleration as the weight "transfers" towards the rear of the car.
What I have done is to install GAB adjustable struts/shocks and Eibach springs on my car. The GAB's can be adjusted to virtually prevent weight transfer, while the springs lower the cars center of gravity. I'll be cutting a coil or two off of the front springs to give the car a "raked" attitude to further reduce transfer in the coming month. I've found that the optimal setting for the GABs is 8 in back(full stiff) while leaving the front struts on setting 1(full soft). This seems to let the tires bite into the track more as the front suspension gives a little, while the rear doesn't move. Another benefit of these suspension upgrades is that I have NOT had wheel hop since putting these on. Another thing you can do that I have not tried, is to experiment with "air bags" in the rear shocks. These clever little things let you inflate them inside of the coil to stiffen up the rear shocks even more. They're affordable too if you can't get the GABs. Needless to say, take EVERYTHING out of the hatch (spare, jack, seats, carpet, tools, etc...).
Finally there's the actual launching technique. Believe me, his takes a LOT of practice! Here's what has worked best for me (I think): When you get to the line, bring the RPM's up to 3000. I don't believe that dialing the boost down is the answer to getting a clean launch, rather it's careful use of the gas.
When you launch, DON'T let the RPMs jump up on you, and DON'T take off at full throttle in first gear! I don't know about you guys, but if I get a bad launch, I'll smoke the tires all through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
OK, the light turns green. Now when you feel the clutch start to grab, keep it at half-throttle and gently slip the clutch until it's all the way out, preventing the tires from smoking(keeping it around 3500). Now you have to be very careful with the throttle. It takes some practice, but after awhile you can feel when the tires are on the brink of spinning. Keep depressing the gas SLOWLY as you gain speed, keeping in mind when you feel that your tires are about to let loose. It's very easy to get anxious and floor it, but resist the temptation.
The 1-2 shift is critical to your success at the track. If you've launched right, you should be able to get through 1st without spinning until around 6000. When you go to make this shift keep in mind that if you just floor it, I guarantee that you'll spin all through 2nd and you'll have to get off the gas and bog down. Also remember not to go completely WOT in 1st gear. Any spinning that you're doing when you make the 1-2 shift will just make for a sloppy spinning 2nd gear.
As you go into 2nd, keep the RPMs steady at around 4000. Slip the clutch out until the tires bite, then start giving it some serious gas. Don't go WOT until you're sure that the tires are biting well. At around 6200 RPMs (any higher and you'll start spinning again if you have modified your car), shift into third quickly and don't let the RPMs drop below 4500. Give it full throttle as soon as you let the clutch out.
After you've gone into 3rd you should be set to "speed shift" into 4th in a few seconds (don't take your foot off the gas, but shift VERY fast). The optimal shift point from 3rd to 4th seems to be about 5500 for the stock turbo, and around 6800 for the 16G. I don't know if I've cleared this up, or if I've just further complicated things. It's hard to describe how the car should "feel" as you near the point of spinning. After a few runs you'll see what I mean. Slipping the clutch and careful use of the gas is very important, so I'd also heartily reccomend a CFDF clutch if you're going to do this.
Credited to: Jim McKenna [email protected]
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Notice the difference in length between awd and fwd lol

lucky awd bastages!

[sabzi5858]

haven't dynoed the car yet, but according to the online hp calculators, i have between 230-250whp, if that's tru, and ur running 500whp, u might as well forget what the word traction means lol i suggest you invest in awd and widebody kit to fit those slicks

yeah, i just ran mopar combustion chamber cleaner (stuff ate the paint off my valve cover!!) and changed the oil and spark plugs, and all i can say is wow, traction in 3rd gear is almost as big a joke as in 2nd now lol i'm still getting bad knock though, so i'm losing power, stupid dsm engine, grrr..

[seth98esT]

Well I bought a 6b0lt off of a guy on DSMTuners. Was running when pull from the car and had 100k on it. Came with everything cept the turbo and exhaust manifold, $725 shipped overnight. Not too bad, but Im happy

haven't dynoed the car yet, but according to the online hp calculators, i have between 230-250whp, if that's tru, and ur running 500whp, u might as well forget what the word traction means lol i suggest you invest in awd and widebody kit to fit those slicks

wait...maybe i'm missing something...is that 230-250whp on your claimed 22psi boost? You're doin something wrong there man Even taken at the wheels with a slushbox, you should be up there pretty nicely...

[sabzi5858]

those aren't dyno numbers, they are from an online e.t calculator, which has to account for everything including my poor 1-2 shift (dying syncros) and all.. i don't want to give a number b/c i don't pretend my butt can tell how much hp i am making.. i don't know how much hp i am putting to the wheels, but i can tell you 1 thing, i'm not putting too much to the ground cause the damn tires keep breaking loose.. my tires spin in 3rd gear at 6200rpm lol fun.. ::shrug::

[g96nt]

don't Warry Sabz...you dont' have to defend yourself
most HP calculators are for RWD/AWD
they don't work for "us"

go ahead and figure out a 2900 lb Car running 14.0 at 103MPH
it Will tell you I make about the same...my only 1/4 mile Slip

then, take a 3200 lb car, and do 12.8@108 MPH...
this is the last Car I raced, and was door-to-door with before the clutch died

that, is more about Where I am =0]

I believe ya... you have 106MPH traps.. which means you are faster than me (or at least faster than I was in july 2001 =0])

[pornstar]

sorry to jump in here but i read somewhere some metion of crankwalk
i've heard the term before but im curious as to what it is and what happens to the car when its suffering from crankwalk...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pornstar)</div><div class='quotemain'>sorry to jump in here but i read somewhere some metion of crankwalk
i've heard the term before but im curious as to what it is and what happens to the car when its suffering from crankwalk...</div>
search. It's somewhere around here, i remember answering it

[pornstar]

thanks found it... would appreciate it if any one could answer my question... its in the other thread

[2True]

So Seth, you actually have the 6bolt now?? for 725??
Yikes, well I was going to tell you I can get you a yellow top EVO3 motor with 30k miles on it for around 1100... but looks like your all set.

So what turbo are you thinking again? I am going to assume your putting on a 2g ported and honed manifold. In my personal experience I would consider the BIG 16g for your application, it comes clipped and prepped right to your door from extrememotorsports. They are an AWSOME company to work with, we built half of the TSi with their help.

[seth98esT]

Stupid tgc is having errors and wouldnt let me delete this......

[galantin]

i would just turbo the sohc like i did. just keep the boost low and you will be happy. if you swap the motor remember the ecu and harness from that motor will have to be used too. and then you have to wire it to the car for things like A/C, cooling fans, gauges, and stuff like that. the 4g64 can safely handle up to about 12psi (so ive heard) with the right tuning and intercooler. i am only running 6psi right now and the diference is amazing, i can tell it is easily a 14sec car, and that is with no intercooler, the timing backed down and stock exhaust! i cant wait to see what it does when i get my manual all hooked up.

[seth98esT]

no intercooler? or do you mean no front mount? What turbo are you using?

I am shooting for 12s to low 13s. And I am just going to leave the A/C out of the car, you dont need A/C, just roll down a window

[8ggalant]

seth when r u startin the project....has craig been on latley cuz he said he was gettin a custom harness made...i wonder if he would sell them...but yea once my 8g is done this spring ill be startin on my 7g probly wont be done till the end of the summer tho...so keep me informed..the guy im buying the car from has everyhing for the motor swap...just need to rebuild the motor and do a 5spd swap ...plan on doin it all at once..that is if the 8g doesnt give me any probs...but its only gonna be low boost anyway

[seth98esT]

well i should be getting the motor by the end of the year, then i am going to see what kind of condition it is in, most likely just needs a new gasket set and she will be ready. Still need to find myself a 5spd and parts but other than that I can order everything from RRE and SBR 8)

Hopefully Craig starts makin those wiring harness', it would definiely make my life a lot easier