Yet Another SES CEL Question

[Sillyasianz]

Okay. Got RPW headers installed on my car. I have had them for over a year (maybe 2 now). Have 2.5 piping w/ Apexi N1T muffler. I also have a resonator on it. The headers got cracked and I didnt fix it for over 5 months. Recently fixed the crack. But now have an SES light coming on. Never had the problem before. Just recently installed a new front o2 Sensor. Also installed last week a high flow cat (o2 installed the same time). I then deleted the code w/ the obo2 or whatever code tester. Also reset the ECU by unplugging the positve and negative of the battery, then braking 15 times to take all the remaining juice and clear all ecu codes. Then waited 13 hours and re-plugged the car. Now 2 days later the SES came back on. WTF. I know of the mil eliminator. My friend at the Subaru dealership that is a mech says I shouldnt install that. It just tricks the car into thinking its alright. I also read on the o2 simulator. Same use, to trick the car. But w/ the simulator, it directs the code into a little flashing LED instead of on your instrument cluster (SES). Now is there any other way to fix it? If I go to a dealer or a shop, pay the diagnoistc and have them fix it, can it really be fixed or will they just do what everyone here suggests? If so, w/ the o2 simulator, if another code, not related to the o2 sensor should arise, will it flash or show on the cluster as SES? Will that simulator work to differ only po421 bank1 code errors? I dont wanna do a mod that what my friend says at the dealer "to splice into a wire on your car that was never made to be spiced, you are messing with something that can have serious problems later, like build up from running to rich." So please give me an opinion. Im annoyed of it and feel like just taking out the SES light on the cluster by taking out the bulb in the back. But if a real problem should occur and the SES tries to blink on and off and cannot....then im really screwed! HMmm

[kerry0320]

yeh i got the same problem with my ses light...did the code thing and changed he o2 in the front and then the code said everything was kool..but like 3 hours later the light came back on and i was like what the hell i did everything right so now whats the problem...well the thing read that the bottom o2 sensor was bad... to get this fixed its gonna cost me 2 hundred just for a screw out and screw in job so im like forget that ...i've gotten used to the light being on ...it shows a true sign of a tunner....i bet even if you got all that other stuff fixed the light will have a hissy fit again...you best bet is to go with the flow...and by the way does anyone know how to change he bottom o2 sensor

i might want to do it myself help out please

[Sillyasianz]

well you know how to take the front o2 sensor right? I think its the same at the bottom. Get under there, have a ratchet. Get the sensor socket. it is a big socket w/ a slit on the side, you need it so it can go through the wires. Then unbolt it. Thats how i did the front. But since it s under, you have to lift the car, or ask a friend at a shop to lift your car real quick. WAIT until the car is cooled down ofcourse. I got my front o2 sensor from Don Herring Mitsu dealer. The front was 116 shipped from texas to me in cali. Shipped same day I ordered over the phone. So find out local dealer price for the senor, or get an aftermarket from autozone (also where to rent the o2 socket and the oboII code deleting hand held machine) then compare w/ the don herring price.