so have u done it?
really? that works?.....i knew that, i just didnt want to say anything..
Thanks to skillz911 for confirming that this does in fact work:
Also a note from Danger Danj:Skillz911:
Hey guys, After getting my car lowered and Aligned My rear camber on the right was at -2.7 and left -2.3
After slapping the home depot kit on today I went to get the alignment done once again. My rear right is now at : -1.7 and Rear Left -1.3 having 5 washers per bolt will exactly shave off a -1 degree as you see it did for me.
You could actually see the difference in the slant of the tire. When I lowered the car off the jack the wheels stood more up right || as opposed to slanted / .
Here are the two helpful links that I used when doing this.
http://www.geocities.com/tonykhar/camberki...t/camberkit.htm
These are pics of the job from RRE.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/3g/rearcamber/
Hopes this helps anyone out who plans on using this method- It works great.
All of you guys doing the home made camber kit, should make sure you get bolts that are 10.9 hardened steel. If you get anything less, there is a chance the bolts could shear off.
so have u done it?
really? that works?.....i knew that, i just didnt want to say anything..
Actually I havn't done it myself (don't need to, my camber is within spec ~ despite the 2" drop...and the fact that you can see it visibly in my sig). Though countless people have agreed that it works. Right now HeadAche is trying it out.Originally Posted by GalantGuy96
how is this actually done?
my rear camber is off. my back tires wore pretty bad on the inside
I have the progress drop also
I actaully had to have 1 of my rear tires replaced when I put my 18s back on last month
its kinda tough to see in this pic
but also if my camber was perfect when I 1st lowered my car with the progress springs and I had stock struts I woulda rubbed in the rear, as my car tucked perfectly with the camber off as it is
Hey Jay, the 2nd link is to RRE's website where they have all the pics lined up. They make it seem super easy. On the 2nd pic, the control-arm thingy (I don't think its actually the control arm) is attacked to the upper portion of the brakes. So basicly any outward movemnt on the control arm will cause the brake assemble to angle slightly more downward.Originally Posted by mrjaydeeone
Hmmm thats a good question about if you need to do all 4 bolts per side. In the first set of pics, the guy have 8 bolts lined up. Which means 4 per side. He also has a lot of washers. Though in RRE's website there only show the lower bolts being messed with.Originally Posted by mrjaydeeone
Honestly I would do all of them for 2 reasons, a) you dont want to have uneven stress across the lower control arm conecting portion (this might happen due to making only a portion of the lower control arm connecting piece rise up with the washers), and the idea is basicly to make the whole control arm move outward as a whole, which in turn will change the wheel hub angle.
Also hit up skillz via aim. I always see him online.
As for the number of washers:So basicly .2" per washer.5 washers per bolt will exactly shave off a -1 degree
BTW Make sure you take it to the shop first to check out what your camber is right now (number wise). So this way you wont have to guess and test repeatedly.
yeah I was kinda wondering how to figure out that number that I am offOriginally Posted by Jet Black
is Skillz911 still a member on here?
also the place that I got my rims from also dropped my car and installed my struts. I am cool with them, do you think that they would do this for me with the washers? or do you think they would feel that it's something that's not safe?
I think they'll be fine with it. This isn't a performance mod or anything. Your just fixing your camber offset. It's easy enough that it shouldnt take em more than an hour.
I actually havn't seen skill911 around for a while. his screen name is skillz911om. At the moment he seems to be offline, though i remeber i used to see him in the caht all the time.
Oh ya, for some people camber kits are 100% required. Shit, HeadAche was just telling me the other day that he went through FOUR sets of tires within a year.Originally Posted by mrjaydeeone
it might be required if they dont know this way to do it or if its that bad, I gues, right?Originally Posted by Jet Black
I don't think mine is that bad
when I had the struts put in 2 years ago they said that it wasnt off by that much if I remember correctly
So if I drop my G 2" front and 1.75" in the back will I need a camber kit if I'm on 17" rims?
I bought most of the peices, I'm missing one bolt and some washers, I'm probably doing it this weekend.
Just found this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ssPageName=WDVW
Hope it helps.
Helps a lot in a thread about homemade camber kits...Originally Posted by SkylineG1
Another thing, no one can tell you if you need a camber kit. After you drop it, take it in for alignement and let them tell you if you should have one or not.
okay I understand thatOriginally Posted by Jet Black
so when I got my car aligned 2 years ago I was told I was cool and within the limits where I should be
and a few weeks ago when I had my wheels put back on I was told by someone just eyeing it that I need a camber kit
so then maybe my alignments just off and that's what caused my tires to wear weird in the back?
whatelse could it be? if the camber is good and a kit isn't needed according to the alignment
I have a friend with a evo and he was telling me that he can do an alignment in his driveway with just a ruler on any car. I wanna talk to him and see what thats all about
Well there are other considerations such as toe, and caster. Though I do believe that any amount of camber will eventually eat away your tires. The time it takes before you notice your tires are gone is directly proportional to the amount of camber.Originally Posted by mrjaydeeone
In the end its really just up to the person. Some negative camber is good for handling as it allows the rear tires more grip (less chance of breaking traction in the rear). I don't know about other people with 0* camber, but when I go ripping up the mountain roads, negative rear camber is quite neccicary. The last thing I need is my ass to break traction, and half the car hanging over the cliff (ie my avatar says it all).
Good point about the steel qualitiy. I'm going to update the original post.Originally Posted by Danger DANJ
Okay, damn it i tried it and for the life of me i could get the bolts to thread for anything. I even Pm'd Danj about the size bolts he was using on his camber kit and they were the same but mine wont thread for anything. I mean getting the bolts off was pretty easy and I was like finally something easy enough to do, but as soon as i tried to thread the new longer bolts in, nothing, they just spun as if they were bigger than the holds. So I started to use my ratchet on it, but decided against it just incase they threaded and then they didnt go all the way in, and my stock bolts would go in. I may try it again later on next week, but who knows.. If anyone else has had luck with this, let me know, cuz im racking my brain as to why this doesnt work...
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