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Reply With QuoteSounds good Peano! T bolt clamps have a weired fitting...they have to be a bit larger to fit correctly. I learned this the hard way on my setup, luckily I was able to find a place locally that had quality T clamps.
i figure if steve can post 4 threads a day about changing a light bulb in his car, i can throw up one every once in a while. lol j/k steve
so i've had a bunch of little things that i didn't do right during the turbo install that i wanted to fix, and there's some things i improved upon. first i'll post what i did, then the results. good findings for all the boosted people.
first i pulled my intercooler, cleaned it with gasoline (my god so much oil came out of there), and installed t-bolt clamps just on the end tanks, for now.
i had my breather line hooked up for a while to the intake pipe, just letting all that fun oil through. now its off. i would have gotten more t-bolt clamps, but i wasn't sure if these would fit, since their sizing was pretty screwey. these were a really tight fit, but i made it work.
second, i wrapped my down pipe in exhaust wrap all the way down to the flex part. the charge pipe running directly off the J-pipe gets literally within 7 inches of my down pipe. probably not the greatest when i'm sitting at a light. it's like i'm double-cooking the air through the turbo and then running it by the downpipe.
third, i pulled a pgd during the turbo install. when i did all my charge pipe clamps, i used those shitty regular ones from home depot that you turn with a flat head screwdriver. i turned them all as hard as i could with the screwdriver, and during the install i didn't have a socket small enough for the hex heads on the clamps. basically, i couldn't turn it more than what i could do with a screwdriver. stupid me. my wrenches go down a few more steps than my sockets do. and today i realized my smallest wrench is small enough to tighten the clamps. so i tightened them all down. violently tight.
and now the results
as a result of cleaning the intercooler and wrapping my down pipe with exhaust wrap, my egts are about 50 degrees cooler. i'm always at 1000* while cruising at 70mph, but today it never went over 950 (while at 70mph obviously). it was even a few degrees hotter than normal today. the egts don't climb so aggressively under boost now, and they fall a lot quicker after throwing it into neutral or coasting. so that was good.
good news and bad news with tightening down all my couplers and getting t bolt clamps. i knew i had a boost leak, but i wasn't sure where. well the good news is it's fixed now. i'm still gonna build a leak tester and check anyways though. the car is definitely a lot faster now, and the bov sounds a lot healthier. however, as a result of this amazing increase, the turbo is more boost happy than ever. it spools quicker now (ugh) and it's now an impossibility to hold a constant speed without cruise control.
exhaust wrap is the shit, t-bolt clamps kick more ass than underage porn, and zip ties rock.
btw i put my license plate back on the front bumper today as well, so i probably would have had better results if i wasn't blocking half my intercooler. i should have waited another few days.
Sounds good Peano! T bolt clamps have a weired fitting...they have to be a bit larger to fit correctly. I learned this the hard way on my setup, luckily I was able to find a place locally that had quality T clamps.
1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo
Sounds good, but get Tbolt clamps for all your couplers. With all my stupid crap screw clamps they always broke after I tightened them down too tight.
Also I wouldnt use zip ties as hose clamps unless your hose is the right size for the nipple. I had zip ties on all 3 hoses on my intake manifold and I leaked from two of them. Installed the small screw clamps and no more leaky.
Did you get a catch can or filter for your breather line? If not your going to have a messy engine bay.
7g for life!
can you possibly mount your tags on/in the passenger side airdam?
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
alos if you went to all the trouble of cleaning outyour intercooler, why would you wnat to do that again? I know you have a catch can coming to the mix, butyou should really go to autozone and get a cheap inline carberator fuel filter to pop into your breather line to keep oil out of your charge pipes. at least until you get your catch.
port your turbine housing if you want to slow your spool but cant afford a bigger turbo yet. it will give you more top end flow/ power too.
and its not really that hard just takes an hour or so once you have the turbine off. only a few bolts and a vclamp away.
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
I think his blinkers are inside the air dams, but I don't know for sure I saw a picture with some company selling his body kit and the blinkers were in the air dams, and I couldn't remember where a good picure of his front end is.Originally Posted by DOHCSTUNR
i think he rewired his marking lights to act as turn signals.
kentucky doesn't require front plates lucky for me.
Every now and then when i'm outside of the metro area's i'll see someone with front plates. Unfortuantly its usually a damn redneck with "git r done" tags
it makes me sad really...
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
my blinkers are in my corner lights. i tried putting the license plate in the air dam, but it won't fit. and i dont want to put it behind the mesh, because a lot of people have been getting pulled over for "obstructing the view" of the plate.
and yeah, i'm going on monday to get a shitload more t-bolt clamps.
why would i have to do it again? right now my breather line is disconected. it's still connected at the valve cover, but i just ran it down to the ground in front of the tranny for now. have it drip drip away from everythingalos if you went to all the trouble of cleaning outyour intercooler, why would you wnat to do that again?
nice. i trust you capped off the intake then. t bolts are a must for every hose for sure. I was blowing off worm gear clamps left and right until i upgraded. not to mention that worm gear clamps tear through your precious silicone couplers.
I hairspray the pipe, then slide the hose over, then t bolt clamp all over a beaded pipe to insure that there is no hose slippage, and not even the slightest leak. Over kill? maybe; anything i can do to make sure my karman is on point accurate and the fastest spoolup possible for my setup is well worth it. not to mention i want something to hold for months or years. not just a couple of weeks.
Do it right the first time. Every time.
get that new toy on yet buddy?
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
no, shitmotorsport still hasn't shipped my parts yet. they said "probably monday"
Yah I meant to do the hairspray trick since I dont have welded lips on my piping but i forgot. I hit 20psi once with my faulty MBC(or just hooked up wrong, IDK), and no piping popped off, but I didnt run 20psi but for a split second.
Anyway 15.7psi still yeilds no popping off. Gotta love Tbolt clamps!
7g for life!
i love how rediculously tight you can get them. i feel like i'm gonna crush my charge pipes
the clamps were actually designed to secure piping on slip fit exhaust systems. so they can put the crimp on your pipe. especially aluminum.
i just met a guy that does great work with a tig, so i think if i can afford some cheap aluminum bends, i'm gonna redo my charge pipes to save some weight. mild steel is heavy
you can also hair spray any boost source nipples you jmight have to keep boost from getting by them. don't really need to on barbs. but if there are smooth tubes like your non turbo throttle bodyies or solenoids, its a must.
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
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