Which Timing Marks?!?

[clint_col]

I have tried replacing my timing belt twice now useing the Chilton Manual. In the manual it shows matching Marks C & A together. C being the little dot on the sprocket and A being the little arrow on the front side of the motor if you are looking from the front of the car. I did this and hand cranked it to make sure there was no binding and everything seemed cool. After a couple hours of putting it all back together I tried starting it and the engine just spun and very little to no compression. I Figured that the book must have been wrong so I tried useing the notch in the sprocket and lining it up with A. Did the same thing; hand cranked it (no binding) put it all back together and tried starting it...no compression still. I am pretty sure the valves aren't bent because I drove the car to where it is parked and it ran fine the whole way. I just heard a loud ticking noise coming from inside the timing cover and POW...half of the timing belt was missing along the length of the belt. I just want to now for sure which timing marks to use to line up the engine. Its freakin hot here right now and I am sweating my !@# off doing this and I really don't want to pay someone to do it... Thank you.

[JiP]

Its been a long time since I've done an SOHC belt job, but I THINK "D" is suposed to be lined up with a mark on the valve cover. D kinda points straight up in the air, you can see the mark on the cover in the pic.

Wait for someone else's reply first because Im not totaly sure about that, its been a while.

Keep in mind, I snapped a Tbelt few weeks ago car didnt make any noise at all, just cleanly shutdown. 2 Broken valves, head destroyed in that area, and 1 cracked piston. Just finished putting it back together for now...minus balance shafts and a/c.

good luck

[ArtyG]

You're right JiP. The white mark on the gear is supposed to line up with the small slit on the valve cover.

[JiP]

I'm puttin my money on some bent valves :?

[clint_col]

Aahhh...Please don't say that :cry: lol... Ok when doing a compression test do i just crank it until the guage on the tester doesn't go up any higher or do I only let it get one compression in or is there a certain number....thanks again?

[JiP]

Aahhh...Please don't say that :cry: lol... Ok when doing a compression test do i just crank it until the guage on the tester doesn't go up any higher or do I only let it get one compression in or is there a certain number....thanks again?

Well technically suposed to crank the engine an even number of strokes for each cyl. Just screw it in, make sure you disable the ignition system, either pull a fuse, or unplug the injectors and pull the plug wires off the distributer.

Crank for like 7 seconds per cyl. On my 2.4 sohc I was getting 215psi across the board.

Keep in mind if you DID do any damage, you could be doing more damage by cranking. I broke 2 valve heads off the stems and trying to start the car when I thought it had just stalled had the piston pounding those 2 chunks up into the head and destroyed it.

[bronxbombr]

it sounds like you dont have compression, valve may be bent if the timing belt broke or jumped a tooth on the sprocket, been down that road 2x. Only way to be sure is to inspect the valves. If you didnt put the belt on right and line up all the marks the engine wont start and cranking it like that will only make it worse or has already made it worse by having the wrong timing.

[clint_col]

Well i got good compression out of cylinder 1&2 but 3 was weak and 4 was very weak. Decided to go ahead and get it runnin to see what it would run like. Loud tickich noise still there so and it does shutter a little bit..noise sounds like it is coming from cylinder 4(very weak one). Guess its bent valves for me :cry:.

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clint_col)</div><div class='quotemain'>Well i got good compression out of cylinder 1&2 but 3 was weak and 4 was very weak. Decided to go ahead and get it runnin to see what it would run like. Â*Loud tickich noise still there so and it does shutter a little bit..noise sounds like it is coming from cylinder 4(very weak one). Â*Guess its bent valves for me Â*:cry:.</div>

If you know what your doing its not the end of the world. If your payin a pro to do it, its gona be costly.

[clint_col]

I am pulling the head my self and taking it to a auto parts shop here in town that also has a machine shop. I talked to the guy there and he siad i was looking at around $225 depending on how many valves were bent and if i need to guides. I am tring to get my valve cover off right now and I swear to god the freaking thing has been glued on. I took all the bolts out and removed the top timing cover and it will not budge! Anyone else had this problem? Or did some asshole in the past use some sort or sealant instead of buying the gasket?

[JiP]

They use adhesive sealant. Wack it hard with a rubber mallet at the corners. Or get a putty knife and using a mallet GENTLY tap it into the seem and break the bond.

[clint_col]

ok... Thank you guys for all the help... I seriously don't think I coulda done this without you.

(espically with the book being wrong and all)

ok...one more question hopefully...before i try and Heman this bolt out...is the camsharft sprocket bolt reverse thread or just hell tight?

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clint_col)</div><div class='quotemain'>ok... Thank you guys for all the help... I seriously don't think I coulda done this without you.

(espically with the book being wrong and all)

ok...one more question hopefully...before i try and Heman this bolt out...is the camsharft sprocket bolt reverse thread or just hell tight?</div>

Torqued to 75 ft lbs...Impact wrench pops it right off. Otherwise get a friend with a big ass crescent wrench to hold the cam while you use a breaker bar on the bolt.

You don't have to remove the sprocket to remove the head though.

[seth98esT]

To get the head off(if its the same as 1g/2g) you will need a 10mm Hex key for your wratchet. Those head studs are torqued to 100ftlbs, but they arent that hard to take off.

[clint_col]

i just ended up taking the timing belt off again and took the head to the machine shop..A guy there flipped the head over and he said he could see 5 bad valves already. Waiting on their call to report the damage and what its gonna cost to fix.

[j686m]

got a good 7g head in my garage, ill sell it for cheap.

[clint_col]

Thanks for the offer but I already got one from JiP. Should be here today....so I guess its back to turning bolts! :?