I am sick and tired of the shaking when I brake!!!!!!!!!!!

[saleen1_sr]

This is bullshit!!! :x :x I changed my rotor out for a cheap 25 dollar rotor and it warped again. I changed out my bushings and it helped only for 2 weeks and then when I brake it still shakes. I have done my research and found a post here saying that replacing the stock or cheap rotors with some brembo ones fixed the problem. I found a post in this forum sayin that and also a post in mitsubishisucks.com. I am tired of this shit so I will finally put down 150 for the slotted rotors and see if this works. I have not had any problems with my galant except for these damn brakes so here it goes. I will be buying them next month an letting you all know how it went. Does anybody have the part number to the slotted rotors I need for my 99 galant I4?

[pvu_rida]

Here it Comes

[pvu_rida]

[pinoyesv6]

This is bullshit!!!

no its not

I changed my rotor out for a cheap 25 dollar rotor and it warped again.

decent brake pads cost more tha 25 bucks. what made u think brake rotors that cost 25 bucks weren't gonna warp??

but with that said the rotors might have been decent rotors but you might have ruined them by doing something as simple as putting on the lug nuts on too tight.

[Juventas]

screw the slotted rotors get the stock ones resurfaced for less than 100 bucks and that should fix the problem. That worked for me.

[saleen1_sr]

screw the slotted rotors get the stock ones resurfaced for less than 100 bucks and that should fix the problem. That worked for me.

OK, I didnt mention that they worked for like a week or 2 weeks then they warped again. I am thinking of going with the 45 dollar rotors that autozone sells but since I'm getting 2 of them might as well just pay 150 for the brembo ones. This shaking is just getting on my nerves and its dangerous when I hesitate to brake because of this.

[g-ridda]

stop crien and jus get the brembo rotors and hawk or axxis metal pads. you shouldnt even be mad 90% of the 8G TGCers have the same problem and if u searched u would see that cheap brake parts are only gonna satisfy for a limited time.when u put the new ones on youll be happy so be ready to get out your lotion

[DOHCstunr]

well a proper brake installation (regardless of the price of materials) should always include:
-new shims, and hardware
-grease the guide and slide pins
-clean and lube the wheel studs then torque them down every time you remove your wheels

here is the kicker:
if you are constantly going through rotors i.e. warping them, then you need to bleed your brakes. or better yet flush them

FACTS:
:arrow: brake fluid absorbs water from the air. Hygroscopic
:arrow: old brake fluid will always have more water than new fluid
:arrow: brake fluid actually boils when it gets too hot. this causes inconsistant brake force distribution, wether from wheel to wheel, or for the pads on each caliper(uneven pad wear)
:arrow: water in the fluid lowers the boiling point
:arrow: lower boiling point means it takes less heat to cause brake fluid boil, brake fade, and inconsistant pad pressure
:arrow: old fluid will give a spongy brake pedal feel or excessiver travel under hard breaking
:arrow: if you fluid isn't clear, or IS dark or translucent, then its time to flush it
:!: the moisture in brake fluid will rust and ruin critical brake components( pump, master cylinder seals, ABS units)
:arrow: Always always ALWAYS use the highest DOT rating brake fluid your vehicle allows. the higher the rating, the higher the boiling point and resistance to moisture. synthetic DOT 4 is what i use

For you bub, i recomend you flush and bleed your brakes completely. Should only take a 3 large bottles of brake fluid to remove all the contaminants.
afterwards your pedal will feel firm, your abs will respond faster if you have it.


other key points
don't ride the brake in traffic or ever really.
don't come to long long gradual stops with your foot softly on the pedal as this causes the rotors to get very very hot and will cause your fluid to boil after repeated abuse in traffic.
if you know a lights going to be red when you get there, don't hurry to be the first one there. take your foot off the accelerator and wait until you need to come to a stop. give firm and consistant brake pressure.

if you are on the highway, and you need to slow down, but not because you are in immenant danger, just coast with your foot off the accelerator to rech the desired speed. don't use your brakes for no reason.

all these things will help you achive longer pad life, and rotor life as well.

[DOHCstunr]

This shaking is just getting on my nerves and its dangerous when I hesitate to brake because of this

actually hesitating to brake is a good thing. just don't wait too long. firm pressure for a short time is better for your brakes than soft pressure for a long time.

[saleen1_sr]

stop crien and jus get the brembo rotors and hawk or axxis metal pads. you shouldnt even be mad 90% of the 8G TGCers have the same problem and if u searched u would see that cheap brake parts are only gonna satisfy for a limited time.when u put the new ones on youll be happy so be ready to get out your lotion

LOL, sorry, I just had to vent and I guess I am going to have to put some money down.

[saleen1_sr]

well a proper brake installation (regardless of the price of materials) should always include:
-new shims, and hardware
-grease the guide and slide pins
-clean and lube the wheel studs then torque them down every time you remove your wheels

here is the kicker:
if you are constantly going through rotors i.e. warping them, then you need to bleed your brakes. or better yet flush them

FACTS:
:arrow: brake fluid absorbs water from the air. Hygroscopic
:arrow: old brake fluid will always have more water than new fluid
:arrow: brake fluid actually boils when it gets too hot. this causes inconsistant brake force distribution, wether from wheel to wheel, or for the pads on each caliper(uneven pad wear)
:arrow: water in the fluid lowers the boiling point
:arrow: lower boiling point means it takes less heat to cause brake fluid boil, brake fade, and inconsistant pad pressure
:arrow: old fluid will give a spongy brake pedal feel or excessiver travel under hard breaking
:arrow: if you fluid isn't clear, or IS dark or translucent, then its time to flush it
:!: the moisture in brake fluid will rust and ruin critical brake components( pump, master cylinder seals, ABS units)
:arrow: Always always ALWAYS use the highest DOT rating brake fluid your vehicle allows. the higher the rating, the higher the boiling point and resistance to moisture. synthetic DOT 4 is what i use

For you bub, i recomend you flush and bleed your brakes completely. Should only take a 3 large bottles of brake fluid to remove all the contaminants.
afterwards your pedal will feel firm, your abs will respond faster if you have it.


other key points
don't ride the brake in traffic or ever really.
don't come to long long gradual stops with your foot softly on the pedal as this causes the rotors to get very very hot and will cause your fluid to boil after repeated abuse in traffic.
if you know a lights going to be red when you get there, don't hurry to be the first one there. take your foot off the accelerator and wait until you need to come to a stop. give firm and consistant brake pressure.

if you are on the highway, and you need to slow down, but not because you are in immenant danger, just coast with your foot off the accelerator to rech the desired speed. don't use your brakes for no reason.

all these things will help you achive longer pad life, and rotor life as well.

thanks for taking he time to write all this and I did bleed the system about a week ago. I guess mmy next step is to purchase some good rotors. Anyone recommend any??

[BlueESV6]

This was the one thing that I always hated. I went through all the steps as well and finally got powerstop rotors and axxis metal master pads. They helped for about 15K miles and back came the shaking... though not nearly as bad. The shaking steering wheel was NEVER fully resolved. With as much of a problem as it appears to be I feel mistu had a serious design flaw in the steering/ braking system.

The last straw for me was the bill on my timing belt change (60K mile service).

I finally got rid of the problem when I bought a Corolla. Haven't not had the problem since...

[elieleb1303]

just dont break. problem solved

[DOHCstunr]

thanks for taking he time to write all this and I did bleed the system about a week ago. I guess mmy next step is to purchase some good rotors. Anyone recommend any??

not bleed...

flush completly

until everything going in and coming out is crystal clear
start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and work your way back.

it took me 3 huge bottles of valvoline synthetic dot 4 to get all of the old fluid out.
(i'm not a fan of valvoline but its the highest boiling point off the shelf without going to dot 5 silicone fluid, which we can't use)

[saleen1_sr]

Actually it was a flush & bleed. I payed Midas 50 bcuks to do it because at the time I didnt have the proper tolls to do it.