Turbo Troubleshooting

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>i thought you weren't supposed to gap iridium or platinum plugs</div>

Hmmm, I'll have to check on that - either way, I'm replacing the plugs I have now with standard copper plugs.

Thanks for the e-bay link.

[Stewi]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wanderingpinoy)</div><div class='quotemain'>There aren't any Advanced Auto stores on the West Coast, but I have tried their sister company, Kragen. All the stores in my vicinity don't have any of the NGKs I'm looking for.

The original plugs I bought were gapped at something like 0.030 or something like that - I was told to gap them to 0.040 so that's what I gapped them to.

God I hate the thought of taking off the bumper, especially after the thousand test fits after cutting the bumper to fit the FMIC and piping Â*</div>i thought you weren't supposed to gap iridium or platinum plugs.

well on my car running stock boost at a very low 7.8:1 compression, the stock gap was .034 or something like that. and we are talking much less cylinder pressure than your 9.5:1 boosted motor. .040 seems rather wide. but idk its a different motor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-X-T-bolt...1QQcmdZViewItem and never worry about your charge pipes again.</div>

platinum's you dont have to gap. iridium im not sure. STUNR, your gap estimate around .036 seems right. Im at 18psi, 9:1 comp ratio and im at .028

[HeadAche]

the gap on my srt is .30 at 17psi

[SkylineG1]

Off topic: Headache did you sell the G?

[DryBear]

Good news:
I tore down the IC piping and redid it, as well as changed the plugs to standard BCPR7ES copper plugs gapped to 0.040 (will save the Zex plugs for the next change), sprayed the intake plenium and EGR gaskets with copper spray (which I realized I forgot to do :sweat: ).

Ran a boost leak test with my uber leak tester device:


And I think I was able to get rid of all my boost leaks. Took her for a test drive and she loks like she's running good now and able to get into boost as well.

Question: is the BOV supposed to flutter or is it supposed to be a single smooth sound?

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wanderingpinoy)</div><div class='quotemain'>Good news:
I tore down the IC piping and redid it, as well as changed the plugs to standard BCPR7ES copper plugs gapped to 0.040 (will save the Zex plugs for the next change), sprayed the intake plenium and EGR gaskets with copper spray (which I realized I forgot to do :sweat: ).

Ran a boost leak test with my uber leak tester device:


And I think I was able to get rid of all my boost leaks. Took her for a test drive and she loks like she's running good now and able to get into boost as well.

Question: is the BOV supposed to flutter or is it supposed to be a single smooth sound?</div>

no absolutley not
your bov should never flutter
thats called compressor surge.
is your bov adjustable
try loosening the screw on it.

also if possible use the most direct source for your bov line.
you want it to be 100% acuurate so it will respond instantly to changes in pressure.
it wouldn't hurt to drill and tap for a 3/8 or 1/4 inch npt fitting then screw in a barbed fitting for an extra boost line.
instead of running like 37 t's and Y's and 4 way fittings.
you want to run as short of an amount of boost line as possible. less volume to fill means quicker response.
precision baby.


FLUTTER IS BAD

[Stewi]

yes, flutter is very bad. I introduced my motor to boost very slowly. I started off no boost for about 500 miles just to set the rings, then I ran about 7 psi for a week then 12, then 18. when i was running 7psi, I had a hard spring in my BOV and it would flutter all the time, I ended up changing it. You can even go a little on the low side as far as BOV spring tension or strength because once you build its gonna hold it closed.

[DryBear]

Yeah, that's what I thought - going to adjust it - what are symptoms of the BOV spring being too loose?

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wanderingpinoy)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yeah, that's what I thought - going to adjust it - what are symptoms of the BOV spring being too loose?</div>
if its too loose it can flutter as well. lol
but mainly if its too loose it can leak at higher boost levels. you shouldn't have any problems.
just loosesn it all the way, until the screw comes out(if it does)
then screw it back in very gently until you feel the screw touch the innards of the valve.
then give it like 1-1.5 full turns.
then take it for a spin and see how things are.

if it leaks you will be able ot hear it leaking while you are un der boost. but i'd rather my bov leak than flutter.

if it leaks, just pull over, tighten it another half turn,
repeat until its perfect.
at low boost you hould be running a very loose valve.

[Tearstone]

You guys that say that the BOV should not flutter, are you running recirc'd BOVs?

[DOHCstunr]

You guys that say that the BOV should not flutter, are you running recirc'd BOVs?

i currently recirculate, but i have vented as well.
i prefer to keep my mas readings correct though.
but when i recirculate, i don't let it flutter either.

[Tearstone]

You guys that say that the BOV should not flutter, are you running recirc'd BOVs?

i currently recirculate, but i have vented as well.
i prefer to keep my mas readings correct though.
but when i recirculate, i don't let it flutter either.

Interesting... becuase when the BOVs are not recirculated they just let out a clean *woosh*. When they are recirculated they sound like a woosh but a fast woopie cushin type *woosh*. Does that make sense?

[DryBear]

I'll try and get a recording of how it currently sounds.

Also, pulled code P0113, Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input. Any ideas on what would cause this?

Car seems to be running fine otherwise.

[DOHCstunr]

I'll try and get a recording of how it currently sounds.

Also, pulled code P0113, Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input. Any ideas on what would cause this?

Car seems to be running fine otherwise.

one of the wires on your mas.
check the solders, check the connector to make sure none fo the wires are seperated right at the connector.

totally unrelated i'm sure
but my inatke air temp sensor wire(within mas) kinda seperated/broke loose, whatever.
i had to fix it.
just an idea

hows your timing. what readings are you getting for your intake temp on your logging program.
intake temp is what the ecu uses to determine timing advance. if it doesn't get a signal. the intake temp value will default.

Interesting... becuase when the BOVs are not recirculated they just let out a clean *woosh*. When they are recirculated they sound like a woosh but a fast woopie cushin type *woosh*. Does that make sense?

it depends on how much boost i shift at, whAt rpm, etc. but most always its a very quick whoosh. but i have an hks racing bypass valve with a very large valveface. so its always pretty low pitched. unlike your typical 1g bov or hks seqential.

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wanderingpinoy)</div><div class='quotemain'>I'll try and get a recording of how it currently sounds.

Also, pulled code P0113, Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input. Any ideas on what would cause this?

Car seems to be running fine otherwise.</div>one of the wires on your mas.
check the solders, check the connector to make sure none fo the wires are seperated right at the connector.</div>

[DryBear]

I think I've got all the bugs worked out - I've been driving her to work and back every day this week, and she's feeling pretty good.

Thanks for all the help guys! I wouldn't even think of trying to do the work without the help and knowledge of the forums!

[2ROTORMOTOR]

do you guys have limp mode? if its showing a maf code then it might be entering limp mode....

[DryBear]

do you guys have limp mode? if its showing a maf code then it might be entering limp mode....

Yes, our ECU is supposed to have a limp mode.

As of now the car is running great - still on the base tune though, but the A/F looks fine at 11-12 at WOT. All I need now is some funds to get a good tune done

No codes so far except for P1400 (differential pressure sensor) which comes up every now and then, but I am planning to do the diode "fix" for it soon.