Engine hesitation and bumping

[Da_silvagride]

hey people..... i didnt want to start a whole new thread when this one is answering some of my questions. well my problem is some what the same..... when i accelerate, the car stays at like 500-1000 rpm. then like 2 or 3 seconds later it kicks back in. it started to do this a few weeks ago and i dont know why. yesterday my SES light came on. i remember that my SES light came on before but i fixed it by changing the fuel injectors. now i checked the plugs and wires.... i also visually checked for air leaks and stuff like that but no luck.... also 1 more thing. when my car is on i hear a knocking coming from inside the engine. what can that be? i tried to take off the cover but just ran out of time..... help me out wise men..... PLEASE!!!!!!!!

Is yours a inline 4 then it might be the lash adjusters. My I4 does it too. I tried different oils like 10-30w and 5w-30. It would go away for awhile then come back. I think it occurs because the automatic valve lash adjusters get dry or something like that. This topic about the lash adjuster problem has been posted before, but no one really has found how to stop it yet. I hate listening to the knock especially when your at the traffic lights and motor makes the knock sound makes others think the car has problems.

SOMEONE PLEASE COME UP WITH A SOLUTION!

I found the post:
<span style='color:brown'>
ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE
Abnormal engine noises can be caused by component failure or a lack of oil pressure, leading to a component failure. Subtle noises can be amplified using a mechanics stethoscope.

• A ticking or light rapping sound located in the valve cover area could be caused by automatic valve lash adjusters. This noise is heard at a frequency that is 1/2 crankshaft RPM. Engine load does not affect the noise. Do not confuse this noise with fuel injector operation.
• Crankshaft bearing noises caused by excessive clearance are heard as deep metallic knocks. Noise is loudest under load, acceleration, or when the engine is just started. May be accompanied by low oil pressure which can be checked with an oil pressure gauge.
• Connecting rod noise caused by excessive clearance is heard as a light metallic rapping noise under light loads. Noise and frequency increase with engine speed. Can be isolated using MUT II by cancelling out the cylinder. Noise will substantially decrease with the cylinder shorted out.
• Piston “slap” is caused by excessive piston to cylinder clearance. This is a dull metallic rattle at idle and under light loads. Noise may disappear as the engine warms up and the piston expands. Affected cylinder can be located with MUT II by shorting out the cylinder.

Keep in mind that noises might be coming from a source other than inside the engine. Belts, air conditioning compressors, timing belt idlers and alternators can all make noise.</span>

[n3oAcid24]

have you checked your intake manifold for leaks?

yes i checked it for leaks and saw none.....

[SpicyGalant]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

[n3oAcid24]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

PO304....... Misfire in Cylinder 4 right? well what can i do? which 1 is the 4th cylinder???


forget it..... i answered my own question... anyways its misfiring from the 4th cylinder. the 4th cylinder holds a Coil Pack. you think thats what is making me misfire people????

[SkylineG1]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

PO304....... Misfire in Cylinder 4 right? well what can i do? which 1 is the 4th cylinder???


forget it..... i answered my own question... anyways its misfiring from the 4th cylinder. the 4th cylinder holds a Coil Pack. you think thats what is making me misfire people????

This happen to me too. I just went ahead and changed all the plugs.

[n3oAcid24]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

PO304....... Misfire in Cylinder 4 right? well what can i do? which 1 is the 4th cylinder???


forget it..... i answered my own question... anyways its misfiring from the 4th cylinder. the 4th cylinder holds a Coil Pack. you think thats what is making me misfire people????

This happen to me too. I just went ahead and changed all the plugs.

i tried this last time. i think im going to change everything, Plugs, Wires, Coils. what causes a misfire????

[Kalamidad]

a bad distributor cap could be the corprite...

[Shadow19]

Well dude... Im not an 8G owner.. But i will tell you this.. I had the same fuckin problem but my car wouldnt idle or anything.... i tried EVERYTHING and put far to much money into the car and come to find out it was the distributor... So honestly id reccomend that you replace the coil pack(s).. because i had a code that said misfire on #4 as well then 2 weeks later it came up as multiple random misfires. So i would reccomend the coil packs and i highly doubt they cost as much as a distributor.. Anyways good luck

[zobgel]

just a noob question!

1 twist before start the engine the SES light came out and if the engine start the SES light's off. it's that a normal?

-thnx-

[n3oAcid24]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(zobgel)</div><div class='quotemain'>just a noob question!

1 twist before start the engine the SES light came out and if the engine start the SES light's off. it's that a normal?

-thnx-</div>

yes thats normal. it will come on when you start the car and then turn off.......

oh and by the way, PROBLEM SOLVEd. it was the coil pack.....