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Thread: brake probs

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  1. #1
    DoverWhite
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    brake probs

    I have a 99 DE no ABS. I just changed out my pads and rotors, and flushed out my brake fluid with Syntec DOT3 brake fluid (says exceeds DOT3 & DOT4 specs).

    Brakes are a little worse than before. A little mushy, and if I slam on them, the brakes will not lock. They're just not braking hard enough, if I were in an emergency, I'd probably roll right into the car in front of me.

    Anything else it could be , besides air in the brake lines? I bleed it by pumping the brake pedal and did not look like there was any air in either side. Please provide any suggestions.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    did you do the break in routine for the new pads and rotors?

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  3. #3
    DoverWhite
    Guest
    Yes, I believe so. The one where you take your car up to 50+ mph and slam on your brakes a few times?

  4. #4
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 9G's Avatar
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    are you doing the 2 people pump/hold, open, close, pump/hold, open, close? just checking.

    was the car on or off?

    What kind(cheap or good) of rotors/pads did you buy?

  5. #5
    DoverWhite
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(9G)</div><div class='quotemain'>are you doing the 2 people pump/hold, open, close, pump/hold, open, close? just checking. Â*

    was the car on or off? Â*

    What kind(cheap or good) of rotors/pads did you buy?</div>

    1. Yes, two people method.

    2. Car was off. Should it be on?

    3. I bought the best quality ones that Autozone had.

  6. #6
    did you change the brakes in the back?? your car has brakes in all 4 corners, not just the front 2

    what order did u bleed the brakes? if you did it in the wrong order, there still might be air in the lines. you start from the one furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer to it.

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  7. #7
    rear drum brakes should be cleaned and adjusted.

  8. #8
    Experienced TGC Member milo111000's Avatar
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    any tutorials on how to get the rear done?

  9. #9
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 9G's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DoverWhite)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(9G)</div><div class='quotemain'>are you doing the 2 people pump/hold, open, close, pump/hold, open, close? just checking. Â*

    was the car on or off? Â*

    What kind(cheap or good) of rotors/pads did you buy?</div>

    1. Yes, two people method.

    2. Car was off. Should it be on?

    3. I bought the best quality ones that Autozone had.</div>

    should be off.

  10. #10
    DoverWhite
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'>did you change the brakes in the back?? your car has brakes in all 4 corners, not just the front 2

    what order did u bleed the brakes? if you did it in the wrong order, there still might be air in the lines. you start from the one furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer to it.</div>

    Hey guys. Thanks for your help on this so far.

    So I just took off the rear drums, and they have about 35% left on the shoes. Not a lot, but I don't think it's the problem. I cleaned it off w/ brake cleaner spray and put the drum back on.

    I see that the rears DO have bleeder screws. So reading the Haynes manual, I bled them in order (Passenger REar first, driver rear second, passenger front 3rd, driver front last).

    After all this, still no go *siiigh* Just FYI, the brake power has always been a problem since 100k miles. I do remember when the car was relatively new, it didn't have any braking issues. The brake fluid is all flushed now, and it's super clear color (the fluid) in all 4 corners, and I'm fairly certain I bled them well. The brake pads are good, I've heard good thigns about them. The rotors are brembo. So what's the deal? I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic. I've already wasted enough money trying to figure it out on my own.

    Thanks though guys. Let me know if you think of anything else. I appreciate all your help!

  11. #11
    DoverWhite
    Guest
    Just got back from the mechanic. He also tried bleeding the system , and said he was only able to remove a very small amount of air. He also said he took off the drums, cleaned and re-adjusted them. Everything else he says, looks A-OK. However, the brake system shows no improvement! ARgh.

    So two things come to mind. a) Maybe it's the pads? The brand is PFC Carbon Metallic. Should i go back to stock pads? Drove my friend's exact same model galant, his has stock pads. Brakes beautifully! Maybe it's the calipers? I remember about 4 years ago, I had to replace both calipers, with Pep Boys rebuilt ones.

  12. #12
    There could be a glazing on the rotors and pads not allowing proper braking ability. If everything else has been checked, cleaned, adjusted, and inspected that only leaves you power brake booster, and master cylinder. But I suspect the pads or rotors as the issue first.

  13. #13
    DoverWhite
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedGalant2k1)</div><div class='quotemain'>There could be a glazing on the rotors and pads not allowing proper braking ability. Â*If everything else has been checked, cleaned, adjusted, and inspected that only leaves you power brake booster, and master cylinder. Â*But I suspect the pads or rotors as the issue first.</div>

    I'm pretty sure the Brembo rotors are ok, so I guess I should try buying new brake pads again? This time I should go with stock OEM pads?

    Man, I'm about to give up.

  14. #14
    two things come to mind...

    take it to another mechanic for a second opionion...

    bleed again. all you need is a little air in the system to adversely affect performance

  15. #15
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DoverWhite)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedGalant2k1)</div><div class='quotemain'>There could be a glazing on the rotors and pads not allowing proper braking ability. Â*If everything else has been checked, cleaned, adjusted, and inspected that only leaves you power brake booster, and master cylinder. Â*But I suspect the pads or rotors as the issue first.</div>

    I'm pretty sure the Brembo rotors are ok, so I guess I should try buying new brake pads again? This time I should go with stock OEM pads?

    Man, I'm about to give up.</div>

    See if you can exchange the pads you purchased first before spending more money on more pads. Most brakepads come with a least a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty. Check your warranty information on what you purchased. Again see if you can exchange for another set of brakepads before spending additional money.

    Curiously have you ever have a brake light on in your instrument cluster?

  16. #16
    DoverWhite
    Guest
    Nope, never had a brake light on (except when parkign break is set), or when fluid is low. I'm pretty diligent about maintenance.

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