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Thread: o2 sensor??? again

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  1. #1
    GFORCE99
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    o2 sensor??? again

    All right I am just trying to get this thing back to normal, I have the kamakazi headers and my engine light is on ( just to say in a short way) and the setup I have goes like this. there's the headers then the 1st o2 sensor ( one small cat was removed) then the 2nd cat and the 2nd o2 sensor. I had to add alittle bit of lenght to the 1st o2 wirres so it could be put on but thats it.
    You guys that said you extended your wires was it alot or just what I did a couple of inches? still thinking about geting the S-AFC but some say it might not fix it.

  2. #2

    Re: o2 sensor??? again

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GFORCE99)</div><div class='quotemain'>All right I am just trying to get this thing back to normal, I have the kamakazi headers and my engine light is on ( just to say in a short way) and the setup I have goes like this. there's the headers then the 1st o2 sensor ( one small cat was removed) then Â*the 2nd cat and the 2nd o2 sensor. I had to add alittle bit of lenght to the 1st o2 wirres so it could be put on but thats it.
    You guys that said you extended your wires was it alot or just what I did Â*a couple of inches? still thinking about geting the S-AFC but some say it might not fix it.</div>

    you extend all wires to the length necessary to relocate all sensors properly, whether that's no extention or 5 feet of extension wire. The key is first bung for O2 sensor before cat and second bung for O2 sensor after the cat. So that would mean if the ONLY cat. you have left on your car is the main cat., you have to relocate your second O2 sensor behind the main cat. Done correctly, this should be enough to satisfy your computer and hence NOT throw any SES lights.

    Any AFC's will help tune (balance engine running too rich or lean) your air/fuel mixture to get more HP out of your headers but will not do a thing to correct the SES warning.

    Of course if you're running way too rich for an extended amound of time, there is potential of damaging your cat. too.

    [size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>

  3. #3
    CliptheApex
    Guest
    i am running into this problem myself, ive connected everything, my headers, flex pipe, and straight pipe, but not since i dont have a cat, the two sensors are literally like 4 inches from eachother. how will this affect my computer?

    also i need to relocate my first o2 sensor to near the middle of my car, how do i go about doing this? ive freed up about 2 feet of it, but id say i need another 2 feet for it to fit.

    thanks

  4. #4
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    Re: o2 sensor??? again

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GFORCE99)</div><div class='quotemain'>I had to add alittle bit of lenght to the 1st o2 wirres so it could be put on but thats it.
    </div>

    Hey Gforce I have the Kamikazi headers also, so you do need to extend the wires for the first O2 sensor? Was it that hard and what type of wires did you use? Second question did you just bolt the headers straight to the flex pipoe considering that there is a difference in size? Headers are 2.5" and flex pipe is 2.25".

    With the headers on how does it feel and sound aside from the SES light coming on? Is everything stock? All this makes me want to go out and buy the RPW headers which I think I might do. Everything is bolt up for RPW from headers to the HFC which has a O2 bung already installed.
    Chapin y Boriqua que mezcla

  5. #5
    Sup Peeps,

    Where did you guys get those Kamikaze Headers?

    Does Anyone know where I can get a front grill for my car. The grill that is between the headlights. I was driving yesterday and my fucking grill fell off, now my car looks weird. Do anyone know of a place that sell cheap 00 Galant Grills?

  6. #6
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(xsetyourselfonfirex)</div><div class='quotemain'>i am running into this problem myself, ive connected everything, my headers, flex pipe, and straight pipe, but not since i dont have a cat, the two sensors are literally like 4 inches from eachother. how will this affect my computer?.....</div>

    If you got rid of all your cats. (pre-cat and main cat), then there's nothing you can do about it b/c you'll always trip the SES light. You don't gain anything by removing or hollowing out all your cats and you may even lose performance. Furthermore, by tripping the SES light, you put your car into running default A/F map which is not optimize and further lose performance. Unfortunately, if your exhaust system does NOT include the purchase of the HFC (high flow cat) with the new relocated bung for the O2 sensor (that's if they even offer it as an option), then you're SOL.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(xsetyourselfonfirex)</div><div class='quotemain'>.....also i need to relocate my first o2 sensor to near the middle of my car, how do i go about doing this? ive freed up about 2 feet of it, but id say i need another 2 feet for it to fit.</div>

    It has absolutely NOTHING to do with the location of the O2 sensors meaning it doesn't matter if you have them in the header tubing or on the DP or in the flex or after or how far apart the 2 sensors are or how far away from the engine they are. The only thing that matters to get them to work properly is having a catalytic converter between the two O2 sensors (whether it's the pre-cat. or main cat.).

    [size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>

  7. #7
    Official TGC Pop-Pop Fishboy55's Avatar
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    Gordon, I hate to disagree with that, and bearing in mind that I have the prototype RPW racing headers, My O2 sensors are NOT behind my cat. :shock: I have a cali spec V6. One O2 sensor is located in each header bank at the collector. (1&2) The next one is in the dump pipe before the flex connector (3) The last is in the dump pipe after the flex connector (4). My stock main cat is still in place and just has a flange welded to the front to mate with the dump pipe. From the flange back to my Bosal muffler I'm stock pipe. To replace my stock cat with an HFC, I just unbolt the flanges at either end and voila!. No O2 sensors or bungs. I've never tripped an SES light, and I've had headers on my ride longer than anyone else

    One other factor to consider is that I had my headers installed by a guy that owns a general shop and builds and races drag cars as a hobby. I put him in touch with David in Australia and let them figure out the measurements. Which is why I still stand behind my RPW headers. The design has evolved and the price hasn't. And never a an O2 failure.

    Chip
    Chip

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    Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.


  8. #8
    Experienced TGC Member Lazarus's Avatar
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    Did you When you stretch out the wired from the connector to the sensor are all the wires the same length? If one is considerably longer than another then that will set off your sensor light because of the time gap from one wire o another. also it may be a bad connection.
    C.J. Cameron
    RETIRED TUNER!!!!

    "Keeping it Simple"

  9. #9
    GFORCE99
    Guest
    To answer some of the questions, when I put the headers on i just bolted the headers on the flex pipe and used a exhust sealent around it with a new gasket and i etended the wires with the same thickness wire all most like a speaker wire.
    With the headers on I notice a good hp gain and it sounds great ( I have the magna flow race muffler). But Ill chech my wire length Lazarus, and I bought the headers from kamakzi.

  10. #10
    SuperchargedGTZ
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    i have the AMSS/RIPP headers for v6 and the rear o2 sensors are really low and they catch everythimg. this is one thing that you dont want fawling out caus it will cause a circuit failier when the o2 sensors get ripped off and the neg and postitive tough causeing a blow out of the fuse for the main computer under the hood.

    IMO....the AMSS headers designe sould have had the o2 sensors pointing laterally instead of down. these sensors hit everything. yesterday on the way home the sensors sat in snow in my driveway and through a code.i think something needs to be designed to protect the o2sensors. any thought

  11. #11
    Experienced TGC Member Lazarus's Avatar
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    That's kinda stupid to have them pointing down. On my RPW got both to point up towards the car. thoght there are or maybe some heat issues it is better than the asphault
    C.J. Cameron
    RETIRED TUNER!!!!

    "Keeping it Simple"

  12. #12
    Official TGC Pop-Pop Fishboy55's Avatar
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    Yea GTZ, that's unusual to have them pointing down. Mine are pointing at about a 45 degree angle from the top on the RPW's. That sounds like a problem with AMSS, but like CJ I have a dent on my bottom header pipe as well. They do hang low and my car is at stock height. So Sounds like both have a slight shortcoming. I'd get those moved. Not much you can cover them with that will really protect them at that angle.

    Chip
    Chip

    2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
    (Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)

    Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.


  13. #13
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fishboy55)</div><div class='quotemain'>Gordon, I hate to disagree with that, and bearing in mind that I have the prototype RPW racing headers, My O2 sensors are NOT behind my cat. Â*:shock: I have a cali spec V6. One O2 sensor is located in each header bank at the collector. (1&2) The next one is in the dump pipe before the flex connector (3) The last is in the dump pipe after the flex connector (4). My stock main cat is still in place and just has a flange welded to the front to mate with the dump pipe. From the flange back to my Bosal muffler I'm stock pipe. To replace my stock cat with an HFC, I just unbolt the flanges at either end and voila!. No O2 sensors or bungs. I've never tripped an SES light, and I've had headers on my ride longer than anyone else Â*:D Â*

    One other factor to consider is that I had my headers installed by a guy that owns a general shop and builds and races drag cars as a hobby. I put him in touch with David in Australia and let them figure out the measurements. Which is why I still stand behind my RPW headers. The design has evolved and the price hasn't. And never a an O2 failure.

    Chip</div>

    You may disagree but I guess you have a valid point of some sort even though it doesn't make sense to me. I know of no other way to do it correctly unless you are fooling your ECU with a mil-eliminator or something, somehow, someway making the front O2 sensors come up with different readings from the rear O2 sensors or perhaps electronics to over-ride the ECU to keep it from throwing the SES light. Perhaps even the guy that did your headers has another fix for this but the only one I know that retains the functionality of the O2 sensors and works everytime is to have all the O2 sensors remain in their position relative to a working cat. just like the stock setup.

    [size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>

  14. #14
    Official TGC Pop-Pop Fishboy55's Avatar
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    Well I know there's no MIL eliminator in with the 4 sensors. I also know the sensors are functional because I just went through emissions and they tested the O2 sensors with the OBD2 box. So I can't figure it out, but mine's working.

    Chip
    Chip

    2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
    (Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)

    Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.


  15. #15
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fishboy55)</div><div class='quotemain'>Well I know there's no MIL eliminator in with the 4 sensors. I also know the sensors are functional because I just went through emissions and they tested the O2 sensors with the OBD2 box. So I can't figure it out, but mine's working.

    Chip</div>

    What's the old saying..... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" :mrgreen: Hell, I wouldn't complain either. :thumbsup:

    [size=10]<span style='color:white'>. . . .</span>

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