Getting rid of distributor and running coil packs

[tom04841]

Part of this tutorial were taken from JIP's tutorial to save me from getting carpal tunnel...lol

I used parts from a 2.4 Eclipse Spyder and 97-99 Eclipse Turbo
Major parts needed (new or used):

Camshaft cylinder (md330061)
Camshaft support (md330052)
Cam angle sensor (md327107)
Power Transistor
2g Knock Sensor
450cc injectors from a 1g or 2g
Resistor pack for injectors
2 Coil Packs
2G Eclipse Turbo ECU
ECU Pins from a donor ecu harness to install new wires, and plenty of wire for new connections. *And the assortment of normal tools to remove bolts, few shop rags, soldering iron, etc..


All connectors if you can get them from the scrap yard.

Now Let the fun begin.

Properly relieve fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump connector under the back seat and crank the engine and let it run until it dies which should only take a few seconds if it even starts at all. *Turn the car off, and plug the fuel pump connector back in. *This is the last time you will crank the car until we are done.

You have 2 choices with the wiring, you could buy matching connectors from a junkyard and splice those in, or you can solder wires directly to the pins of the power transistor, extend the wires of the coilpack and knock sensor, resistor pack etc... *When I say good amount of slack don't be stingy! *Leave at least 6" more wire then you need. *Read through everything first before you do it.

1) *Start with the knock sensor install. *Behind cylinder 2 on the engine block there are 2 spaces where you could screw in the knock sensor, choose the one closer to the top. *Its a really bad area and really hard to do with the intake manifold there. *I suggest removing the intake manifold bracket and then you can stick your whole arm behind the intake manifold and screw in the sensor. *Its a weird size so you'll have to find a wrench that fits, I used a good old plumbers slide wrench. *DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT. *Get it snug I'm talking like 3ft lbs of torque, just a tad more then finger tight. *It may be a bitch to get it in if the threads in the block are all rusty so do your best.

Now grab the connector and cut it off and lengthen the black wire enough so that you can bolt it down to the firewall or any good ground point. *USING SHIELDED WIRE lengthen the red (or white) wire, ground the shielding on it and bring the wire into the car through the same large rubber grommet the main harness comes through. *Use a screw driver or something to poke a hole in the rubber and feed the wire through. *Make sure your connections are good, solder is the best idea, and use lots of tape to weather proof them. *The wire should be long enough to reach the ECU with a good amount of extra slack. *Label that wire we'll go back to it later.
*This would also be a good time to run another wire with it and mark it inside the car as pin 23....it goes to the power transistor.


2) * Take any ignition switched power line, they are almost always a BLACK/WHITE STRIPE wire, I used one straight from the ignition switch, tap it and run the wire to the ECU with a good amount of slack. *This will be the "turn on" power supply for the ECU. *Make sure it is ignition switched power NOT ACCESSORY. *The wire must stay 12v while cranking, ACC wire gets ground during crank which would turn your ECU off thus you would never be able to start your car. *Label it and leave it.

3) *Remove the old ECU and remove the plugs from the ECU, remove the plug from the smaller box under the ECU (fuel controller), remove the little clip on on the firewall that holds the main harness strapped in this will give you more slack in the harness to make life easier. *To remove or install a pin into the ECU connectors you need a safety pin or small flat headed jewelers screw driver. *Pop up the white strip, then you stick the safety pin into the front of the harness and have to pry up a lil plastic tab, while doing this pull the wire out and it slides right out. *To install a pin, just slide the pin in. *When your done push the white strips back down that locks everything in place.

Using this diagram do the following:


* Move White wire Pin 31 to pin 58. *This is the Tach signal wire.

* Take the Knock sensor wire that you ran and crimp on a small ECU pin and install that wire in location 78

* Take the ignition signal wire crimp a large ECU pin to it and install it to pin 82.

* Take a wire crimp a small connector to it and install in location 23.

Take the 4g64 ECU and remove the cover, then remove the 4 screws holding down the circuit board. Do the same to the 2g ECU. *Place the 2g ECU circuit board onto the old metal bottom from the 4g64 and screw it down. *But use the cover from the 2g ECU over it. *The reason is that the 4g64 mounting bracket is different, so we need the bottom piece of the 4g64 ECU case to keep the same mounting location, but we want the cover that came with the ECU so that anyone who works on the car has the proper part numbers.

Reinstall the fuel controller connector and the ECU connecters to the NEW 2g ECU. *You can put it back in place but probably better to leave it out until your sure things are working smooth.

Go under the hood and REMOVE the connectors to the distributor and the 2 wire connector for the coil (next to the distributor connector). *Now turn the key to ON DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE, JUST TURN TO ON POSITION *Pay attention to the dash lights. *The battery light, Check engine light, SRS lights come on and should all turn off after a few seconds. *If the check engine light NEVER illuminates when the key turns to ON then the ECU is not getting power at pin 82 (ignition wire) check the voltage on that line, if it reads 12v then your ECU is probably busted. *If everything checks out, turn it off and take the key out so no one accidentally starts it.

Now the rest of the work is in the engine bay the ECU side is done.

CAS wiring:

Pin 1: 12volts - Black/red at dist (5 pin plug)
Pin 2: Signal wire - Brown/green at dist (5pin plug)
Pin 3: Ground - Black wire at dist (5 pin plug)

Power Trans Wiring:

Pin 1 and 8: Coil Pack Outputs
Pin 2: Pin 23 (2g ECU)
Pin 3: Ground - Black wire at dist. (5 pin plug)
Pin 4: White Wire at distributor (2 pin plug) - tach signal (Pin 58-2g ECU this wire is moved from Pin 31 on 7g)
Pin 6: Black/white wire at distributor (2 pin plug) - 12volts - also goes to coil packs
Pin 7: White wire at distributor (5 pin plug)

Knock Sensor:

Signal: To Pin 78 (2g ecu)

ECU:

ECU power: Tap an ignition signal wire and run to pin 82

ISC:

I just unplugged mine. Idles fine without it.

The wiring is almost done.

Remove the distributor and set it aside.....you don't need it anymore (unless you screw something up)

You have to grind a little off the cas cylinder to get it to fit into the end of the cam.....its a little larger than the one on the distributor. Trial and error...hopefully no error.

Next, drilled the end of the cam. Make sure if you are doing this to stuff shop rags into the slots in the head just at the end of the cam to prevent any shavings getting into the oil. I did it in 2 steps, then tapped it with a 5/16 tap since we had plenty of different lengths at the shop. Now make sure you get the offset right and bolt the cylinder to the cam using a lock washer under the head of the bolt.

Bolt on the camshaft support and install the cam sensor in the support.

Fuel injectors. This part gets a little messy and dangerous.

Start by removing the connectors on the injectors. *Cut the Black/Red stripe wires on all 4 of them leaving enough on both sides to reconnect to other wires. *Take your resistor pack mount it somewhere on the firewall. *Take the single RED or WHITE wire lengthen it and connect all 4 of the Black/Red wires from the ECU side to this wire. *Take the remaining Black/Red wires coming out of the injector harness's and connect each to a separate wire from the resistor pack.

Now remove the bolts holding the fuel rail down and pull it out of the engine, there is enough slack in fuel lines to be able to pull the rail up and twist it up to remove the injectors without removing the fuel lines. *Lay down shop towels under the rail because when you remove the injectors fuel will spill out. *Pull out all 4 injectors and install the new 450cc injectors with NEW o-rings. *Once in place put the fuel rail back in the engine and bolt it down, and finally reconnect the injector harness's.

I had to rewire the fuel pump...some do, some don't. Tap the same ignition wire that you have to run to pin 82 on the 2g ecu, and use that for the signal to trigger the relay. Then proceeded with the rewire as usual.

This is the tricky part, the ignition coil wires from the coilpack to the spark plugs basically have to figure out their order by trial and error. *There are 2 coils each coil has 2 posts to accept 2 wires. *Connect the wire for spark plugs 1 and 4 to one coil, and 2 and 3 to the other coil. *Now go try to start the car. *If it starts up great, if it sounds like its not even attempting to start, then go back and swap the coils around. *The wires you have on 1 coil move them to the other. still keeping 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3 together just on opposite coils from before.

Start the car. If it doesn't start, check for power at the fuel pump. If no power, you MUST do the rewire.

I didn't get any immediate CEL, but once i gave it some gas, it came on. I got 2. One for the fuel pressure solenoid (P1105), and one for the boost solenoid (P1104). If you get these codes, there is a fix other than getting the solenoids. go to radio shack and get a package of (2) 50 ohm, 10 watt resistors. Tap into the power wire you ran to pin 82 and wire it into one side of each resistor. Then run a wire from the other end of one resistor to pin 3 and the end of the other resistor to pin 11 of the ecu.

[seth98esT]

Nice writeup. Have any pics of the distributorless SOHC?

[tom04841]

Working on it...have to find the cord to the digital cam

[laxinwarrior]

Awesome write up Tom. I can pretty much visualize the whole swap already. I'll let you know how it goes once I get it done.

[Shadow19]

Ok... Can we get more in depth pictures other than how it looks in the engine bay like the wiring of resistors and all that? Also..... How much did this run you? Im HIGHLY interested ;-)

[tom04841]

not as hard as it sounds

[tom04841]

Ok... Can we get more in depth pictures other than how it looks in the engine bay like the wiring of resistors and all that? Also..... How much did this run you? Im HIGHLY interested ;-)

I am trying to find the cord to my cam. I didn't take pics along the way, but if i can help you out in anyway, let me know.

As far as cost, it all depends on the deals you can get. The cam cylinder and housing run about 38 shipped from https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html.

The rest of the parts i pulled off a wrecked 2g, so it was next to nothing, and I got all the connectors I needed too

[Shadow19]

Man this is so sweet.. You just brought the 7g's to another level... Especially when we boost...

[tom04841]

Man this is so sweet.. You just brought the 7g's to another level... Especially when we boost...

This was the whole point behind it. The turbo and wideband will hopefully be in by next weekend.

[Shadow19]

Well arent you lucky... Boost isnt in the making for me for a very long time... But i think this is the key to a not so big headache...

[phizzalot]

Awesome write up... Can't wait for the pics...

This seems pretty straight forward after reading Jips Tutorial and now yours. I hope I can use this in the future as an alternative to other engine mgmt products..

Excellent job and thanks again for the write up...

[4-G-rim]

Great tutorial!

This will be my last mod after the new motor is finished and put in.

[tom04841]

Engine bay pic

[1gdsm]

r u using a 2g dsm ECU wiring or stock wire this a stupib question but i tkink it not hurst to ask

[DOHCstunr]

Needs less MAS

[phizzalot]

After looking through the mitsubishi web link you posted to buy the parts I noticed there ar sevreal diffreent parts for the Cam Angle sensr (MD327107)

Which specific one did you buy? because Ive never seen an all silver one like whats in the pics.. Alll Ive seen is th CAS's that are on the 4g63 2.0 engines with the green or black cover.

ex :



or

[Shadow19]

After looking through the mitsubishi web link you posted to buy the parts I noticed there ar sevreal diffreent parts for the Cam Angle sensr (MD327107)

Which specific one did you buy? because Ive never seen an all silver one like whats in the pics.. Alll Ive seen is th CAS's that are on the 4g63 2.0 engines with the green or black cover.

ex :



or

I believe he got the CAS from a spyder which is the 4g64 as well. The one youre looking at is the 63

[tom04841]

phizzalot : The cas is the same sensor for alot of mitsu vehicles. You can get it from a 97-99 eclipse, 99+ I4 Galant. It isn't the silver thing in the pic, that is the camshaft cylinder housing (camshaft support md330052) . The cas just bolts to that, and reads the notches on the Camshaft cylinder (md330061)

Hope this clears up your ?'s.

1gdsm: I am using the stock harness from my galant, and just added and swapped some pins.


DOHCstunr: I couldn't agree more. But at this time, the only way to switch to SD is with the MAF Pro or full stand alone. I would much rather spend that $ on internals or a built trans. I think the next MAJOR mod will be an AWD conversion. Just need to find a donor in my price range.

I used to run DS-Map on my 1g TSI and loved it. I had almost EVERY mod you can do to it...and i was pushing a very conservative 450+ hp. 458 on the dyno with 462 torque. This was running dsmap, gt35r at 25psi, with a good tune. I could have sweaked out more, but the time I was hitting 90% idc and din't want to push it. Shortly after that, I sold it. The kid bought 1600 cc inj and upped the boost...last time i talked to him, he had hit 600+ on the dyno.

[1gdsm]

ey tomo4841 sound like u know alot i woudl like get some help about my 901g dsm tuning cuz i dont know any bout them and hear r my mod
90 1g ecplipse awd/stock block,port and polish head with FP cam,dsmlink version 2 Autometer 02 wideband ,gt35r,3'' turbo turbonetic exhauts manifold,38mm Tial external wage gate,MBC back exhaust ,24x12x4 FMIC with 2'1/2 IC piping + HKS BOV,950cc injector version2 maf-t with 3'' maf Act flywheel+2900lbs 6puck clutch 255lph walro FP Aeromotive FP,all 4 ulthane mount
thats pretty much i can think of right now and i need to get its tune,IDK where and how to start
and here for my seing i have couple problem: my fuel pressure drop right after i turn off the engine,my wideband doesnt read right ,how i can get it work with my dsmlink? i mean log with dsmlink,my long time low fuel trim it doesnt moving it stay around +10 my long time mid fuel trim stay bout 02 and i dont see any of my long time high fuel trim its 00 allthe time im really need to get it tune any help will be apriciated try to get it dyno but they dont have any around here ,have to drive 6hrs away .94 galant LS just bought it have some problem too :distributor go bad thinking swap a 2.0 head and turbo but dont know how to start cuc i have couple 2.0 head laying around and the good 6bolt long block 2nd thing it the fuel pump runing and it wont stop when the key is on try to change couple FP relay but doing the same thing,the auto tranny dont have OD and i hope with ur experience u can help me out ,im got stuck in KS now need to get them fix so and can drive it back to VA to work thanks alot sorry long story

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[tom04841]

ey tomo4841 sound like u know alot i woudl like get some help about my 901g dsm tuning cuz i dont know any bout them and hear r my mod
90 1g ecplipse awd/stock block,port and polish head with FP cam,dsmlink version 2 Autometer 02 wideband ,gt35r,3'' turbo turbonetic exhauts manifold,38mm Tial external wage gate,MBC back exhaust ,24x12x4 FMIC with 2'1/2 IC piping + HKS BOV,950cc injector version2 maf-t with 3'' maf Act flywheel+2900lbs 6puck clutch 255lph walro FP Aeromotive FP,all 4 ulthane mount
thats pretty much i can think of right now and i need to get its tune,IDK where and how to start
and here for my seing i have couple problem: my fuel pressure drop right after i turn off the engine,my wideband doesnt read right ,how i can get it work with my dsmlink? i mean log with dsmlink,my long time low fuel trim it doesnt moving it stay around +10 my long time mid fuel trim stay bout 02 and i dont see any of my long time high fuel trim its 00 allthe time im really need to get it tune any help will be apriciated try to get it dyno but they dont have any around here ,have to drive 6hrs away .94 galant LS just bought it have some problem too :distributor go bad thinking swap a 2.0 head and turbo but dont know how to start cuc i have couple 2.0 head laying around and the good 6bolt long block 2nd thing it the fuel pump runing and it wont stop when the key is on try to change couple FP relay but doing the same thing,the auto tranny dont have OD and i hope with ur experience u can help me out ,im got stuck in KS now need to get them fix so and can drive it back to VA to work thanks alot sorry long story

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Do not reply to this post.

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