No, it's purely a race oil that's meant to be changed after every race. I don't care if they say it's for street cars, it doesn't have the same additive package, that say, Mobil 1 or AMSOIL does for street usage.
No, it's purely a race oil that's meant to be changed after every race. I don't care if they say it's for street cars, it doesn't have the same additive package, that say, Mobil 1 or AMSOIL does for street usage.
This is correct. I had used Royal Purple when I started my car thinking it was the best, but Mobil 1 Synthetic is actually better and has cleaned up my engine a lot. I had lifter tap for God knows how long and even tried valve medic but Mobil 1 actually did something to the car and made it perform better aswell. Go for Mobil 1 dude
You guys do know that RP has a street oil out right.
RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
"I shall go before thee and make the crooked places straight."
2001 ES V6 M/T under construction
1991 Volvo 244ti 300 whp daily driver
www.gooichimotorsports.com
No, it's actually not a real synthetic but it's good enough for you. The only real Mobil 1 synthetic in the US is 0W-40 cause it's BMW LL certified among other things that require it to be composed of at least Group IV base oils
AMSoil synthetic FTW!!
RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
"I shall go before thee and make the crooked places straight."
2001 ES V6 M/T under construction
1991 Volvo 244ti 300 whp daily driver
www.gooichimotorsports.com
I've heard mixed reactions to Royal Purple. Some say it's good some say it's not that good. I just stick to Quaker State Synthetic.
I'm still running regular mobile oil, maybe i should switch to Mobil 1 synthetic, do i just switch over completely? or is their a process
00 Galant ES Turbo/5-Speed
13 GTR
if you really care enough, do the research... you will find that hands down, the best oil on the market is AMSOIL...
Diamond Star Motors - Turning ordinary people into mechanics since 1989.
For street usage Mobile 1 is probably the best oil you can use or Castrol GTX which had a little better results compared to Mobil 1 in a synthetic oil comparison I read last year.
No need to put any "hardcore race oil" if your car is 99% a street daily driver vehicle. With the money you save, buy a good oil filter like OEM or Puralator Pure One.
1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo
Castrol GTX is conventional oil... Syntec is their synthetic oil. They may have been reviewing German Castrol Syntec (0W-30) which is a very good real synthetic oil. Other Syntec is just like Mobil 1, it's not actually synthetic. They're allowed to call Group III-based motor oils "synthetic" in the United States. It does not matter any way unless you really run your engine hard.
i've used Mobil 1 synthetic for about a year; never had a problem using it
02 Mit. Galant 5 Spd -> 2010 Mit. Lancer Sportback 5 Spd -> (current) 2014 Mit Evo GSR 5 Spd
run1206's Rear Disc Tutorial
run1206's CF Hood Resurface Tutorial
I switched over to Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil about a year ago, and have been running it ever since. As of my last oil change I just started using the K&N Oil Filter also. I've had no complaints thus far. I've been running the 5W-30, but now I'm at about 75,000 miles, so I was gonna switch to 10W-40. Anybody think thats a bad idea?
I live in So Cali and drive about 275 miles a week. [City driving mind you, wish there was more wide open space out here.]
This AMSOIL, Ive never heard or seen it before, how much price difference is there b/w it and Mobil 1?
75,000 miles isn't nearly enough to start running a thicker oil. If anything, I'd use 0W-40 Mobil 1 just like I keep telling everybody.
AMSOIL is a ripoff for people who don't really race their cars, don't worry about it.
I really wish people just just start READING THE THREAD. 0W-40, like I said before, is better because it's an actual synthetic oil. It costs the same as other Mobil 1's and is a good viscosity choice in general. The 40 shears down to about a 30 and the 0W allows for better cold starts.
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