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Thread: Engine Mounts?

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  1. #1
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    Engine Mounts?

    Well I have noticed that when at idle i have a slight vibration... i know for a fact that my car never used to vibrate at idle. Also sometimes when i shift gears i can feel the motor move, kinda like a hard shift. Last, there is a slight clicking noise coming from the engine bay, it kinda comes and goes.

    Could this be that my engine mounts are shot?

    I was reading up and a lot of ppl have a lot of different branded mounts like Energy suspension, prothant, ripp, deyeme racing.

    I think i would rather just go OEM. What do guys think would be the best option if it even is the motor mounts?



  2. #2
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Sounds like the motor mounts. My 99 did that and I replaced all four mounts with OE ones, nice and smooth like when the car was new.

  3. #3
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
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    Usually the ones that go are the front and/or the back. The front bears most of load, just check and see if the rubber is cracked, try to press on that fork that comes off the tranny and bolts to the mount, if it moves easily by hand, your mount is probably shot. The front mount is really easy to change, it takes about 10-15 mins at best.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  4. #4
    WarmAndSCSI
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    Yep, you'll have the least harsh ride with the OEM mounts, but getting some inserts to essentially repair your old mounts would be cheaper.

  5. #5
    WarmAndSCSI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewi
    Usually the ones that go are the front and/or the back. The front bears most of load, just check and see if the rubber is cracked, try to press on that fork that comes off the tranny and bolts to the mount, if it moves easily by hand, your mount is probably shot. The front mount is really easy to change, it takes about 10-15 mins at best.
    The front and rear aren't actually load-bearing mounts... they're just roll stoppers. But you're right in the regard that the front one gets more abuse than the rear one.

  6. #6
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    on mitsubishiparts.com the engine mounts listed are Front / Strut and Trans...What do i need to order? 2 front mounts and 2 trans mount?



  7. #7
    WarmAndSCSI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheekz185
    on mitsubishiparts.com the engine mounts listed are Front / Strut and Trans...What do i need to order? 2 front mounts and 2 trans mount?
    No, don't do that. Are you sure there aren't four types of mounts? They're all different. Hang on, I'll get you actual part numbers. Are you just 4G64, no tranny swap or anything?

    Tranny-side: MR272218 for I4, MR272219 for V6
    Front: MR333818 for I4, MR272203 for V6
    Engine-side: MR272199 for I4, MR272200 for V6
    Rear: MR272204 for I4, MR272206 for V6

    Many of those are actually the same part, just have different numbers from Mitsubishi.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI
    Quote Originally Posted by Cheekz185
    on mitsubishiparts.com the engine mounts listed are Front / Strut and Trans...What do i need to order? 2 front mounts and 2 trans mount?
    No, don't do that. Are you sure there aren't four types of mounts? They're all different. Hang on, I'll get you actual part numbers. Are you just 4G64, no tranny swap or anything?

    Tranny-side: MR272218 for I4, MR272219 for V6
    Front: MR333818 for I4, MR272203 for V6
    Engine-side: MR272199 for I4, MR272200 for V6
    Rear: MR272204 for I4, MR272206 for V6

    Many of those are actually the same part, just have different numbers from Mitsubishi.
    thanks alot man... first thing in the morning i am going to check my front mount like stew said!



  9. #9
    is it ok to change the front and rear w/o changing the sides?

  10. #10
    WarmAndSCSI
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    Quote Originally Posted by badmitsu
    is it ok to change the front and rear w/o changing the sides?
    If those are the only broken ones, then yes. It'll be a lot easier just to do those two, the sides require some work.

  11. #11
    do you have to pull the motor any to change them?

  12. #12
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    ANybody have a tutorial or pictures of the exact locations of each mount? I know where the side mounts are... the left side is by the reservoir and the right is right by the intake. But not sure where the fron one is and how hard it is to get to.



  13. #13
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badmitsu
    is it ok to change the front and rear w/o changing the sides?
    Thats what I did and thought that it should be fine but that just wore the side ones out quickly because the vibration all went to the weak ones and had to replace those shortly after. When they are all the same age the vibration is shared by all but when you install 2 new ones most of taht vibration is not displaced to the weak or older ones and therefor wearing them out faster.My advice, replace all 4 at once, yes the sides are pain, mainly the Transmission one. Remove front and rear mounts, drop the cross member and then install the transmission.

  14. #14
    You are here entirely tooo much!! RAZ_76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI
    Quote Originally Posted by badmitsu
    is it ok to change the front and rear w/o changing the sides?
    If those are the only broken ones, then yes. It'll be a lot easier just to do those two, the sides require some work.
    If the front ones are in bad shape, the sides are most likely in the same condition or close, I say to change all 4 and save you some time and money because if you buy them one by one, it will cost more. Trust me I know, that swhat I did.

  15. #15
    how much would it run if taking car to shop?

  16. #16
    my mechanic said something like 220 i cant remember exactly but the labor for those 2 is very cheap since they dont require much work

    the price includes the parts and labor btw

    im getting the front and rear tomorrow from the dealer, its 57 each and if sunday is not too cold and not raining then thats what i will be doing and i will take lots of photos and make some kind of tutorial if i can
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  17. #17
    220 just for front and rear? o.O

    what about all mounts?

  18. #18
    when i first thought my side one were bad i asked him long time ago and he said $290 or something like that so add those together and u will come up with a total on all 4
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
    '01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
    '02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

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