you can'r rotate the whole dist because it is keyed, you can only rotate the cap.
I am wanting to advance the timing on my 97 galant. One of my friends and I hooked up a timing light to my car and tried to rotate the distributer, but it had not much play (maybe a half of a mil. each way). We did it to another friend of ours 95 galant with no problem(just using the jumper wire). I am wondering if there is something else that I have to turn, like the CAS on the 2g eclipse, or is there nothing that I can do. As a side note I am wanting to pull as much out as I can before I go to the track on May 4th. I already have a 4" intake, 60mm tb, SAFCII, and are waiting to receive the wideband that I ordered, and if time permits before the 4th, doing the 5spd swap. But back to my original ? is there a way to advance the timing on my 97 or is it a no go.
you can'r rotate the whole dist because it is keyed, you can only rotate the cap.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
i do not think it is cali spec... I bought it in GA and am still here... We tried loostening the two phillips that hold the cap on and it does not move either...
wait now that i think of it the end of the distributer has the hey that lines up with the end of the cam. lol sorry for the misleading info i was thinking about how my old car worked. there are three bolts that hold the distributer in place, you you are looking directly twards the distributer their should be one on each side and one on bottom.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
oh keyed means that it can only go in two ways the right way.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
I only saw two, one towards the back ant up, and another on the front side but at the bottom. I am sure that those were the only ones b/c the distributer came off the head about 2mil if i moved it enough.
there should be three one on each side and one underneath the dist
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
I only have the two 12mm bolts, I took some pics to show and the bottom bolt shows the most play by the oil lline. the pics are bad... silly phone camera.
Last edited by 7gftw; 04-03-2008 at 10:51 PM
So since my disrib. is keyed, is there something I can do to advance the timing a couple of degrees, like is there something like a CAS (I know our cars don't have one) that I can turn, or is there a wire hat I can splice and add a certain resistance resistor to it. How would the guys at Mitsubishi or another shop advance and/or retard timing if they needed to. I just wanna know that I can't do it before I give up on it.
94-95 and 96-98 have completely different distributors. I'm almost positive that the newer ones can't be clocked.
222whp/250wtq
94-95 can be adjusted to advance or retard timing...the 96-98 distributers can't as there is no adjustments
1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo
I will post more pics of the distrib. tomorrow if it stops raining for a few hours. I was also wondering is there something to "trick" the ecu into advancing the timing like a resistor on a wire or bypassing a certain sensor. Like how an afc makes a certain resistance on the airflow wire to "trick" the ecu into pulling fuel. I mean, the guys at Mitsubishi or auto shops might have to advance or retard timing.... so how would they go about doing it?
i have a 96 and its keyed distributer.
took it off had a drill bit to it ... done said.
wana run e85 on it. got a walbro 255 ...60psi on the FPR
mafs of a 3.0 v6
and throttle body.
no o2's and hollow cat.
does the ecu auto adjust?
whats this i hear about not using safc n something else instead?
im just an oil pan away from throwing the turbo in.
i wana know bout advance timing for better handling the e85
for now.
You have to run at least a front o2 sensor if you daily drive your car. The ECU reads the front o2 sensor for open loop fuel adjustments. Without the front o2 sensor, more then likely the car will run in limp mode and will not be very pleasant.
As for the SAFC, you should really only need it if you have done some major work to affect airflow. Just a CAI and exhaust arent going to require an SAFC.
7g for life!
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