Installation progression and explanation;
Installation took approximately 3 months of different phases of progression. With 100,000 miles on the G at this point there was some servicing to the engine needed before any boost is applied.
Service the engine was “Phase 1” where compression was checked, head was disassembled and gone over to make sure factory specs were maintained (done by my cousin Stacy Brown for those into local stock car racing). I changed the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all pulleys and tensioner, checked that the seals were not leaking at all on the cam or crank and finished up by cleaning the belt side of the motor. I replaced anything wearable on the steering and suspension (tie rods inner/outer, bushings and wheel studs). I did not take many pictures of this and was a little nerve-racking on how important I did everything right the first time (not that I mean to rush through projects, but I do). Kory says, “if the car does not have a sound base, there is nothing to tune”.
“Phase 2” was fuel delivery upgrades and management installation. OBX fuel rail was “enlarged” to fit the injectors, along with upgraded fuel pump. Pressure is maintained through an OBX FPR, I will be eventually replacing with Areomotive 1:1 FPR. Injectors are Lucas 450cc/min, high-impedance injectors.
What a pain in the a*$! I guess 13mm is different in China. Oh well.
Fuel rail, FPR, and injector assembly.
Then after disassembling again to "fit it" to the intake manifold.
This took one night for me to put together and another day to check and tune. The hardest part was having to bore out the fuel rail 13mm in width for the injector, and about 16mm depth to properly seat the top of the injectors. The main reason is the very high fuel pressure that will be maintained by the new fuel upgrades. The fuel pump also needed fabricating to fit into the ass-backwards setup Mitsubishi put into these Galants.
After I got the manifold together and all the lines connected, I re-flashed the vehicle with the correct fuel injector scaling and a tweak to the Injector Voltage Latency. The car took some time to relearn the ignition and fuel adjustments but can now run rich without using the AFC to tune the injectors. I had to build a mount for the Fuel Pressure Riser.
Knock sensor/Knock Light install.
Then I opened up the front 2 air dams on both sides of the Galant. The oil cooler needs fresh air to work efficiently. Getting a body kit would be the best bet, although living in my area of PA sucks because of crappy roads. I had nothing but problems with paint on any ABS or fiberglass, no matter how much bonding or flex agent you add. I am not showing this car and is just for fun, so this is what I came up with for an answer. I will also be opening the bumper area underneath the fog-light grill for better air flow.
Ok, after driving the Galant for 3 days I MUST mention that the fuel system is OUTSTANDING!!! It lost the leaned out popping sound when I get off the gas, it did sound pretty cool. BUT! the fuel system smoothed out the entire power band, smoother power transitioning between shifts, smoother idle at off the throttle coasting, and deeper/richer exhaust tone and more fuel at partial throttle.
I will have to replace all the coolant lines that run to the throttle body and the far end of the intake manifold. I am willing to bet that they were never touched before because of not having scratch marks from removing the spring clamps from the connectors (I wanted to say nipple, he he). So when I did they all have slow drips. Same thing happened to the hose when I flushed the radiator.
Also the AFC NEO was installed, but not used until turbo was installed. I intentionally wanted to get the car tuned via ECU, and use the AFC for fine tuning AFR under boost which is also adjustable.
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