what about this box? .. http://cgi.ebay.com/12-CUSTOM-KICKER...QQcmdZViewItem
its 3 cubic ft...too big? or wut? the one i have now is 2.
this is the kinda box i have now ... http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-12-SUBWOO...QQcmdZViewItem
what about this box? .. http://cgi.ebay.com/12-CUSTOM-KICKER...QQcmdZViewItem
its 3 cubic ft...too big? or wut? the one i have now is 2.
give me the specs on the sub
actually all i need to know is if it is a 2 ohm or 4 ohm....also is it from 2001 or 2004?
Last edited by fliegendaffe; 03-10-2008 at 08:55 PM
you need a box with about 2.591 cu/ft of air space, so use the 2 cu/ft and put insulator, aka fill, in there to achieve a lil more
Im running a MTX TA7801 amp in my car rite now. specs - http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder7801.cfm . I wanna get the MTX Sledgehammer with 2 7512 (800 watts peak per sub, 400 rms). Should i get the dual voice coil subs so i can wire it down to 1 ohm? or jus get the single voice coils at 2 ohm load? the Amp is rated 1200 watts at 1ohm but birth = 1627. what do you guys think?..is that pushin the subs too hard at 1 ohm? or jus get the 2 ohm loaded version?
amp is rated 800 at 2 ohms but puts out 1180
i would say do it at 2 ohm. it's a lil safer on your products
iight thanks bro.
i got a MTX 7801 amp running a kicker L7 ( it hits harder than the kickerzx1000 amp). For the first month it worked fine, but now if i turn up my system, the amp and cap shut off randomly and it comes back on if i lower the volume for a while. now i have to play it at low volumes or it shuts off = no bass to enjoy. Can someone tell me what can possible be wrong..is it the amp or cap gone bad? its just started doing this after over a month. the amp is not overheating becuz its never hot when i touch it when it shuts off...
your cap isn't shutting off, it can't shut off. the reason why your amp is although, is because it's being over loaded and the protection circuit is turning on.
why would it jus start doing this now though? someone told me maybe a power wire is loose sumwhere..idk
Ok here is the deal the capacitor is what is making it go into protection mode. What your amp needs is extra amperage not voltage because it runs at a constant voltage. What happens when the amp needs extra juice from the battery but it cannot offer it the cap sends the stored jolt of electricity to your amp which does not need over 14.4 volts and can potentially cause it to fry so the amp goes into protection mode. Try taking the cap off, get a optima yellow top and a high output alternator and you should be set.
i am MECP as well. and never heard of anything like that. but caps are useless IMO
Think of it this way. Many ac adapters and power converters are rated at a certain constant voltage, for the us its 110, but various amperages. The volts don't technically run through the wire but instead pushes a certain amount of electricity through the wire. When there is a shortage in amps then the electronic device burns up, that is why you see the mA ratings on ac adapters. In order to get a certain number of watts we use the equation, watts=volts*amps. If we increase the volts the amps decrease causing the amp to not get enough current and in the end causing it to burn up. That is how I understand it but that is just my analysis.
I'm not saying that you don't, I'm just explaining my reasoning, but anyways what we can both agree on is that there is no need for a capacitor so don't get a new one.
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