7G Turbo installation "guide"

brandon · 04-21-2005, 01:31 PM

If I got the car properly tuned or did some real tuning myself I'm sure the gas mileage wouldn't be too bad. If you're not boosting your gas mileage is typically going to be better than if you were N/A.

Regardless of mileage, if your motor is in good shape then go for it. Get it tested and go from there.

275hp? The blue dragon?

youngcs · 04-21-2005, 01:47 PM

yeah, I knew my gas milage would have to go down but I just wanted to know what it would be like since that car is also my daily driving car, it would be a BI to be fillin up the gas tank every day. So which would you do, 4g63t or 4g64t given that you have enough of the material needed to do any of them.

**DOHCstunr** · 04-21-2005, 01:59 PM

the 4g63t swap is much more involved, but you can make a lot more power using the eclipse ecu, and engine. much less tuning required too. if you want to make serious power on your 4g64 you should plan on rebuilding the bottom end. if you just want a smaller but significant power boost, just boost your stock motor.
if you use the 4g63t and ecu, you are going to get pretty damn good mileage. mine seems to be much better than before. mostly due to the engine being much smaller. but i'm clearly refering to highway and non boosted driving. but if i want to burn some fuel, i just open it up and watch the gas go. but at 13psi the gas really doesn't go that quick. i bet sabzi can burn some fuel with his monster hairdryer.

but if you want to go 4g63, make sure you are really ready to do it and ready to embark on a journey. by the time you are done, you will be able to do anything with a car(except building block and tranny internals).
but like i said, make sure you know what you are getting into. $ goes quick

youngcs · 04-21-2005, 04:15 PM

OH I'm ready, lol. My only problem is findin a reliable mechanic, or atleast that is willing to do the job.. Those types is rare around my way. I would do it myself but i dont have the tools necessary and im not to shure i would eva finish it either

**peanotation** · 05-06-2005, 11:48 PM

note on installing 450cc injectors with resistor pack: i put my in today and ran into a problem. on the side of the injectors there is a "+" sign inside a circle. i assumed that this meant that side of the injector's prong was the positive 12v lead. WRONG. the positive side of the injector that you will be tapping into for the resistor pack is the black wire with red stripe on the driver's side of each installed injector.

i wired up my injector the other way around, tapping into the ground wires for the resistor pack. this makes up for a non-starting car and some panicking.

interesting side note. i pulled the fuse for my fuel pump and with my incorrectly wired resistor pack, had the car running for a full minute with no fuel pump. i put my ear to it to make sure, sure it enough, it was completely off.

**Blue Ice** · 05-25-2005, 11:32 AM

on the oil pan and smic does it matter which gen you get, 1g or 2g?

brandon · 05-25-2005, 01:02 PM

IIRC you need a 2G pan because of the bolt pattern or clearance...

IC doesn't matter... you can use any IC from any car really.

**krazienluv10** · 05-30-2005, 02:58 PM

good job brandon on the tutorial...

**peanotation** · 06-09-2005, 05:46 AM

some things i'd like to throw in, if you don't mind

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Go ahead and remove your battery and battery tray</div>

i relocated my battery to the trunk, the turbo's intake pipe + mas + filter reaches all the way to my fender. literally only 1/2" from the tip of the filter to the fender. no way you're fitting a battery there.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Now is just as good a time as any to drain your oil and coolant also. </div>

i didn't drain the coolant 'till i realized i had to. one word: disaster. do it ahead of time.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>You’ll want to remove the 1st O2 sensor before removing any of the exhaust.</div>

i actually unplugged the o2 sensor (plugs into the harness right under the starter) and then i dropped the down pipe. i had to use a huge wrench to get the fucker off. no way it was gonna happen with the downpipe still on the car.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Now you need to get out the peskiest part of it all, the oil filter housing plug.</div>

omfg. i had to whip out my 24" breaker bar and plug in a 5/16" allen wrench socket. i swore i was gonna break something pushing on that thing. it finally *snapped* lose.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Assemble the turbo, oil feed line, oil return line, coolant lines </div>

i built the turbo/o2 housing/j-pipe assembly outside of the car. it makes it a lot easier since you can just bring it up underneath and bolt up the turbo the exhaust manifold. a better idea would have been to bolt it to the ehxaust manifold as well outside of the car. i had some tight fitment issues with the wrench when i was bolting the turbo to the exhaust manifold. might have been my tubular exhaust manifold.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Next you can bolt on the downpipe to the O2 housing.</div>

don't paint the o2 housing. 1500* paint doesn't work. it was burnt off after 3 days.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>The return line attached to the bottom of the turbo of course bolts to the oil pan.</div>

don't use an OEM return line. get a silicone or braided one from turbochargers.com or DSMotorsport. don't ask, just do it.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>The angle of entry into the oil filter housing is awkward, and you’ll be 99% certain you’re crossthreading the fitting, but so long as you get those first few threads down you can go from there. </div>

i concur. i must've asked brandon about this 10 times before i actually went and did it. you will keep saying to yourself over and over "this isn't right" but just get it in good. i put it in 2 full revolutions past the point when it got hard to turn.

brandon · 06-09-2005, 07:09 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>some things i'd like to throw in, if you don't mind

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Go ahead and remove your battery and battery tray</div>

i relocated my battery to the trunk, the turbo's intake pipe + mas + filter reaches all the way to my fender. literally only 1/2" from the tip of the filter to the fender. no way you're fitting a battery there.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>You’ll want to remove the 1st O2 sensor before removing any of the exhaust.</div>

i actually unplugged the o2 sensor (plugs into the harness right under the starter) and then i dropped the down pipe. i had to use a huge wrench to get the fucker off. no way it was gonna happen with the downpipe still on the car.</div>

Just a couple things in response to peano's comments...

If you don't want to relocate your battery to the trunk, you can just have the intake curve toward the firewall like mine. You will have to do some cutting and fabricating, and relocate your coolant overflow, but it works:

In regards to the O2 sensor, if you jack the car up you have a clear shot at the O2... just need to use a big open end (I forget the exact size), and you can use the ground as leverage to push up on it to get that sucker off (it's tough). If the downpipe is off the car, the leverage isn't there... just my 2 cents.

Thanks peano for the added notes!

Mindless · 06-09-2005, 09:41 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brandon)</div><div class='quotemain'>IIRC you need a 2G pan because of the bolt pattern or clearance...

IC doesn't matter... you can use any IC from any car really.</div>

Why can't you just tap the stock oil pan? Just wondering.

**peanotation** · 06-09-2005, 01:23 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Mindless)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brandon)</div><div class='quotemain'>IIRC you need a 2G pan because of the bolt pattern or clearance...

IC doesn't matter... you can use any IC from any car really.</div>

Why can't you just tap the stock oil pan? Just wondering.</div>

you can do that, i talked to someone who did, forgot their name though.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>n regards to the O2 sensor, if you jack the car up you have a clear shot at the O2... just need to use a big open end (I forget the exact size), and you can use the ground as leverage to push up on it to get that sucker off (it's tough). If the downpipe is off the car, the leverage isn't there... just my 2 cents. </div>

see i tried to get it off down there, but it wasn't happening. so i pulled the downpipe out, and i actually had to use a breaker bar to get my o2 sensor to budge. and it was a huge wrench, i think 19mm or 21mm

**lonestar22** · 12-14-2005, 11:55 PM

can u bolt a 1g 2g manifold to a 8g 4g64

**DOHCstunr** · 12-15-2005, 08:13 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(lonestar22)</div><div class='quotemain'>can u bolt a 1g 2g manifold to a 8g 4g64</div>

this thread is for a 7g turbo install.

**Galanttuner10** · 11-13-2008, 11:46 PM

i know this is years after the fact but i happened to come across his car and i didnt realize he lices basically down the street from me

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/411887

but it does help wit the install im gonna take a few tips from here