whats the amp rating on the sub?
i have a kicker c12 in sealed box powered by a 300watt crappy amp and a sony headunit with subout.
the lows i get when playing songs like "gucci mane- swing my door" & "hat to the back - western union" are incomparable to the lows my friend gets in his civic with panasonic heady, soundstream amp and kicker c12.
is it the amps fault? is the amp not amplifying the very low frequencies? the minumum sensitivity setting is 50Hz. the kicker c12 is supposed to be able to respond to 27.
or is it that the galant has bad acoustics?
i dont wanto buy a new amp and then still have to lsiten to tinny sounding shit.
whats the amp rating on the sub?
the amp is supposed to be 300watt. the kicker sub i dont know. the dealer said it was rated quite low but they have run 900 watts thru it and it handled.
it seems like the bass is fine except the reeeeal low stuff only found in some of my songs.
There are a few reasons, what is the voltage on the Pre outfrom the head unit? Also 50Hz you will not hear in your car, you will feel it but not hear a frequency that low. You also already said that you have a crappy amp so you cannot it expect to sound good??? Check the specs on the sub too, the amp may not be able to push the sub. You said that it was rated at 300W is this peak or RMS? People would put anything on their box to sell their product. A good system comprises of many parts, head unit, amp, speakers and wires. If part of that is crappy then it will make the rest sound crappy.
ok, the only things i can think of are the subwoofer is wired out of phase but i doubt it. OR the amp is crappy. the amp is the only thing that doesnt have a REAL brand. so i might scrap it or sell it to a honda owner.
If you run the woofer over the proper RMS threshold for a long ammount of time it will kill your woofer. Amps, in my experience, should not make the woofer sound bad, the worst thing that will happen if you have a bad amp, or you go over the amps proper power threshold is the amp will turn off. If you have been running your woofer over the proper RMS power for a long period of time, your woofer is FUBAR, and it will never sound good again. I have used POS no-brand amps that I had to fix by soldering paper clips, and I was still able to make a woofer sound good. So, I think its an operator error.
Last edited by Kwikfox; 12-15-2008 at 10:17 AM
A ricer is someone who believes that lights, stickers, useless parts, stupid driving and any other abnormal or dangerous driving habits help them in their need for speed or attention.
how is your amp adjusted? the gain and ect. cause that could cause some of your problems. not to mention the rms on your amp and rms in the speakers could be effecting the deep bass.
um
input level on amp is adjsuted to maximum, frequency 50Hz, lows are increased to maximum on head unit.
the amp claims totalmax power of 300 watts, 150 wattsRMS at 4ohm bridged.
2 channel.
what kind of stereo do you have? you need to find out what rms your subs are. and are you running anything else off of the radio like lows/mids/highs or do you have them ran to a amp. do you have a capacitor, or do you have it strait wired. and how thick is your power/ground/speaker wire?
but what i would do.. is turn your amp down bridge it. then turn the deck up on one of the songs. then tinker with the settings on the amp but adjust your radio if you have options in the deck.
more then likey what is happening is. your amp/speaker just doesn't have enough power, get a better amp/ speaker , because some speakers work differently on different amps because of the power and signal output know what i mean? if the speakers can handle up to 800rms and your using a 200rms amp then your really using your speakers because it doesnt have enough power.. get a bigger amp.
Last edited by panda; 12-16-2008 at 06:32 AM
i bought a pioneer 300watt 2channel running it bridged.
problem fixed. bass isnt extreme, you cant hear it outside of the except licence plate rattle,
but inside the bass is nice. just need to stop some shit rattling, like my mirror.
Go the mirror rattle XD
Yeah, head units are the one thing you can't really skimp on hehe. I <3 Pioneer.
gota sony with subout aux in. no mp3 damnit,
the kicker is rated at peak power of 300w and so is the amp in bridged mode.
? is that allgud
the bass sounds pretty good in the car but otuside it sounds bullshit. but is that just because its only 300w?
well it all depends.. i had 2 jl audio 10's on a mtx amp with a capacitor and you could hear it a good ways away.. but i had it in a hatch and the kind of box it was in what a competition style..
does your box have ports?
but i might be wrong here but i think when you bridge the amp it changes the rms not really sure..but.. if you want knock.. get a better box. bigger speakers, bigger amp, more power.. change the rc cables going from your deck to the amp if you dont already have some high quality rc cables. get thicker power wire.. stuff like that.. shit you might not have the deck and amp tuned correctly.. it can be all kinds of stuff.. but more then likely you just need to go bigger if you want bigger boom.
its in a recomended sealed box.
heady and amp are tuned good. no distortion.
yeah this cars just turning into a money pit. ill keep this shit in it until i win lottery. (i dont even buy tickets)
next time i do up ym cars sound system im going big
thouasand watts at least. and like a 15" sub.
are monoblocks better than 2 and 4 channels?
i dont know anything about monoblocks.. lol.. but get em built your probably going to spend a nice chunk of $$ just to get good knock..
btw.. is your sig a picture that was taken in nz? cause i might have to move there.. green as hell looks like a less foggy ireland.. ohh lucky charms
yeh its in NZ, lol yeh cum stay at my house
1994 Galant VR-4 GOKUH ( 230kw atw )
2000 Legnum VR-4 ( Daily, 155.5kw atw )
1997 Legnum VR-4 - Yes Another one
1995 FTO - V6 Mivec 200hp
doof doof good. lol galant has a big boot space. might as well use it
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