well on a MAS equipped car you would have to draw air from before the throttle, and deliver it post throttle, directly to the plenum.
On a speed density car like mine, all i have to do to raise the idle is run a fish tank bleeder valve from the plenum to my cabin, and (in order to not have a hissing sound in my cabin) the other side of the hose would run back through the firewall and would be left wide open(not running to anything)
fortuneatly for me, for whatever reason, with speed density and a full iac AND fiav block off plate, i have no idle issues at all... this is without the aid of an auxillary device.
If i rev it up and sidestep the throttle on a cold start. it will dip to about 700rpms and stabilize.
Matt you could use the exact same instrument I described above for your car. you'd just have to source a hose going from after the mas, and then splice it into one of your existing hoses, like the fuel pressure regulator or the back of the throttle body.
If you wanted to do it electronically, I would just use a normally closed solenoid.
like the EGR or the evap purge solenoid.
Step 1= go to the yard and grab a solenoid w/ electical connector from pretty much any mitsubishi...
step 2= wire the bitch up to a simple toggle switch make sure your power source is only hot when the ignition is at on. plumb it just as i described above with the mechanical valve
step 3= see how well it works.
you should use a normally closed solenoid so you do not burn out the solenoid by having it energized for 95% of the time you drive your car.
when the switch is off(preferably an "illuminated when active" type of switch) the solenoid will be closed and your car will idle at the speed set by your BISS.
when the switch is engaged, your solenoid will be open and will allow air to bypass the throttle.
it won't take much to give your idle a boost.
if 1 doesn't work, you could always use two and wire them parallel.
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