it uses evo parts. same head just cast a lil diff i.e spots for water lines and watnot on evo and not on hyundai one but internals are the same but not stock they arent mines built
03 ES 5spd--Rota torque gloss black 17x8 et. 35--Hankook Ventus V12 evo 235/45/17--D2 coilovers--DC Sports STB--Intake--Brembo calipers--Powerslot Rotors--Stoptech Pads--SS brakes lines--35% tint--5k heads & 5k fogs--Alpine headunit--Kicker 400w amp--Alphasonix sub
it uses evo parts. same head just cast a lil diff i.e spots for water lines and watnot on evo and not on hyundai one but internals are the same but not stock they arent mines built
oh shit ur trunk is crazyyyy lol
and the rest of ur car 2
yea im from mass
No offense but you wouldnt be more wrong about heat/tuning. The general idea behind a turbo car is to get the AFR's tuned as close to stoich as possible without leaning out too much. In boost however the highest AFRs to be "safe" would be around 11.5 - 11.8:1 Because the more heat generated the better for spooling the turbo, with the AFR tuned right, the motor will be at its max potential for power. Yes, of course if you go way lean your EGT's will go thru the roof but at that point forget about the heatsoak you will be damaging pistons/valves/headgaskets and the like. When you say the "car tuned right it will not get cherry red hot" you must not have spent alot of time around turbo cars. On my old setup which was a cast stainless DSM manifold, I can take my car on a WOT highway pull at 15psi and do a 0-140 run, pull off to the side of the road and open the hood and my manifold is glowing red. That is on a cast stainless manifold which the wall thickness is probably double of any tubular manifold. Did I mention my AFR's were around 10.8 to 11:1 during that pull which is very conservative. When I hang out at the track you can see DSM's and EVO's make 10 second runs, come back around, stop and get the timeslip, park in the pit, open the hood, and the manifold will still be glowing red a little near the collector since the other areas had a little time to cool.
When you dyno that car you should monitor ambient air temps versus air temp going into the intake manifold, see the results after 2 or 3 back to back pulls on the dyno and compare to your first pull, I wouldnt be surprised if you saw a 10-15 degree difference.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
I've always liked your car, and I can say that all the work I see you've done so far, I like. Can't wait to see the final results.
lol not 2 sound like a groupie or nothin but u got any spare parts? im trynna build up my galant and urs is very inspiring to me to make my shit hot...not trynna jock u or nothin lol
The car is hot, clean, and a nice build but spend $150 get tint and it will finish your G.
lol its w.e i dont tune just build the motor... lol and no i dnt have any spare parts but if i come across some ill let u know...
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