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Thread: Oil Oil OIL!

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  1. #1
    TGC Super Hero evil-G-nius's Avatar
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    Oil Oil OIL!

    So my car has not been back on the road that long....about 600 miles or so....I am still drinking oil at an insane rate. I ruled out the rear main seal because there is no leakage under the car, no smoke in the exhauast. The valve cover gasket has been changed and that was a small source...I think maybe when the engine was built, the piston rings never sat correctly. That would make it drink oil like crazy no? Any insight would be great


    "Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"

  2. #2
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    you can always do a compression test, but i believe you are burning oil. most likely the valve seals are going

    here's a proof



    just run some thicker oil and do oil changes more often
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



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  3. #3
    TGC Super Hero evil-G-nius's Avatar
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    that doesnt work! I have used thick ass oil and it still runs through it. I cant change it anymore often....i'll go broke! LOL I want to just swap a 4g63t engine in but that aint happening anytime soon. I might have to give this car up soon I think. I dont want to...so much invested and all. IDK


    "Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"

  4. #4
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 4-G-rim's Avatar
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    Do you have alot of "sout" buildup around your exhaust tip?

    Like what Mko said..you may be burning oil from your valve seals if you have checked all other areas where you could have a oil leak. Is there any leak where the tranny meets the block..you could be leaking oil from the rear main seal too.

    Worse case other than rebuilding the current motor is replacing it with a low milage SOHC 4G64 again from a salvage yard which is a low budget alternative. Much cheaper than buying a new car and possibly giving a "tune up" on the new car if its used.

    1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo

  5. #5
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
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    try throwing some lucas oil stabilizer in there, that shit is THICK. My father in-law had an old potiac grand prix that would burn oil, a quart of that lucas stabilizer each oil change helped alot.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
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  6. #6
    Senior Moderator DOHCstunr's Avatar
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    compression test. If it passes, it's valve seals.
    you can rent a compression tester from autozone for free. It takes like 20 minutes and next to know mechanical experience.

    valve seals are both easy, and cheap.
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  7. #7
    Member allrice4g64's Avatar
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    when doing a compression test what numbers are good and what are bad?

  8. #8
    Moderator mko's Avatar
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    190-210 are good

    170-180 are ok, but its not so good

    170 and lower def needs rebuild, although itll run
    God created turbo lag to give the v8's a brief moment of hope.



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  9. #9
    TGC Super Hero evil-G-nius's Avatar
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    Hmm...thanx for the insight guys. Kev...this engine is already real low mileage. It was a full rebuild so now it has maybe 35k on it. And if I have to get another engine I will get a 4g63t! I'll have to find a way to check the valve seals and comp test. There is oil on the block....but I cant tell where it came from. The valve cover gasket was replaced and I know before that some oil was leakin from the top and dripped down...so I am not 100% if thats what I see or not. I'd have to steam the engine to be 100%.


    "Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"

  10. #10
    briggs
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    do a systematic check,

    1.) PCV Valve - will cause positive crankcase pressure cause oil leak while driving
    2.) Check the Oil Sump, and Oil Pump Housing.
    3.) Check driver side main seal, OIl Pulley seal and Balance shaft seal. (you can buy a kit for 1 & 2 from autozone for $40
    4.) check the numbers on your last smog, high HC can equal oil burning, plus ofcourse Valves seals, and rings.

    I say a rebuilf 4G64 + 4g63 Head is better than a new engine. ie get a salvaged head rebuild it properly (total cost less than $200 in parts) replace the stuff mentioned above I say you 90% there. all without pulling the engine.

  11. #11
    TGC Super Hero evil-G-nius's Avatar
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    PCV Valve - works fine
    No balance shaft, its removed and sealed
    Valve seals...not sure Valve Cover gasket and plug rings - new
    engine main seals - not 100% sure
    This engine is a rebuild, I am not about to have it rebuilt again. If and its a big if, IF I need another engine I may give up the car or get a 63t. My thought for real...piston rings. I have a feeling they never set right


    "Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"

  12. #12
    New Member Crim's Avatar
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    Had the same problem for a long time. My original engine blew at 136,000 miles. Got a used one with supposedly 76,000 miles on it. Still sucks oil like all hell. Oh, btw, rings are the common problem with these engines. So if its burnin oil like mine, then its probably the rings. I will say however that since I've been just feeding it oil for the last 15,000 miles and haven't had an engine problem yet. knock on wood. Good luck, and btw, you can get like 3 five quart jugs of oil at sam's club for like $15 right now.
    "All day baby, all day, except in the morning."

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  13. #13
    TGC Super Hero evil-G-nius's Avatar
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    LOL....I saw that and have seriously thought about it!


    "Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"

  14. #14
    Hey ive had to do alot of oil fixes on my 1994 galant but here are the main ones if they havent said them already...
    1. valve seals... there are 4 of them!!!!! a shit load comes out from there..... if u have oil under the left side area its that most likely.... fucking exspensive repair.. $500 the dealership did it bec they have the correct size seals. no aftermarket
    2. valve cover gasket - thats ontop easy to see
    3. Oil Pan gasket
    4. Distributor - i have a leak there now... feel right under it if it is its that..

    thats all i can think of hope it helps bud

  15. #15
    Senior Moderator DOHCstunr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evil-G-nius View Post
    LOL....I saw that and have seriously thought about it!
    Dude I don't want to sound like a dock, but if you don't do a compression test and post your numbers, i'm going to close this thread.
    Are you afraid thats what it is, so afraid that you don't get it checked out? Lol like a HIV test.

    it takes 15 minutes.

    If you aren't leaking ANY oil outside the engine onto your driveway, then it HAS to be internal, which literally leaves valve seals and piston rings as yoru answer(of course it can always be excessive bearing wear)

    So go to autozone, borrow a compression tester, and do the test right there in the parking lot. Its just like changing spark plugs. All you need is to make sure you have a healthy battery before you do it.

    So dude.... Compression test it.

    l
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  16. #16
    TGC Super Hero evil-G-nius's Avatar
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    I just havent had time Stunr! I need to get the car smogged plus brake and lamp tested. Then I will get it done and post numbers. I dont doubt you that it might need a comp test...just in due time


    "Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"

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