might as well use it.. Keep us updated w/ the build.
Hi there some of you may have seen my previous post about my blown engine but I guess it might be helpful to someone if I make a post with details on my new build. I will try to keep it updated. Any advice is more than welcome...
HERE I START PULLING THE MOTOR.. it looks fine on the outside...timing didnt jump, actually it looked like nothing was wrong, even installed a pretty nice fuel pressure gauge cuz at first i tought my fuel pump just went out, but pressure was all fine
...and here it is out
BUT ON THE INSIDE.....all f****d up
(spark plugs #3 on the right)all eaten.. It was after i checked the obvious and saw the spark plug #3 was beat when I decided to pull the whole motor out, it was obviously internal damage...
AS YOU CAN SEE THERE IS NO ONE IN #3....
....OH NO HE WAS HIDING IN THE OIL PAN
WE ALL DESERVE A BREAK HEH...
Alright starting to build...
...with the thing I definitely do not need rnow lol
It's crazy all the stuff for header wrap was over $100
I don't know if I should use this solid aluminum pulley because people say the oem pulley has rubber in it to absorb vibration goin to the crank and a solid one might cause crank damage plus I want my AC blasting and power steering workin all fine in traffic...this one shows you pretty well:(https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...erdrive+pulley)....
(there is a few threads on here about that but more feedback is welcome)
Something even crazier.....a new oem crank pulley just like the one on the right from mitsu..$300 !!!
(the pulley on the left $30 from ebay)
I went to mitsu to pick up a few new parts i needed...pricey
like this thing is a hydraulic timing belt tensioner it was freakin $150!
I also got a starter plate and thermostat housing
AS FOR THAT UNDERDRIVE PULLEY...DEF NOT USING IT. I might actually look into getting my internals balanced as beam514 suggested but still not using it.that pulley is not worth the 10-15 extra hp i can go without i wanna go turbo anyway i dont need some sketchy pulley for power and fucking with my accessories. thats not something you really need on a street car for hp... so im goin with the stock one....but i also figured its a great ashtray after I pluggedup all the holes with foil
ordered a new cylynder head, since mine is not rebuildable
Cleaned and painted throttle body aluminum
Finally stripped the wrincle red paint off of the intake manifold
Painted the upper right motor mount aluminum as well
got a pretty nice balance shaft eliminator kit
Painted all kinds of brackets and mounts in low gloss black
now Im saving up for the new block and def getting custom dished pistons with valve relief slits and lower compression.. goin turbo after I get the stick shift in there...
Last edited by wrakd; 08-18-2010 at 03:13 AM
might as well use it.. Keep us updated w/ the build.
"Mitsubishi Galant(e) for Life"
Tuned 2013 Evolution X GSR PB
-> Follow me on IG @blackblurr_x | 5-Speed | Check out my Build Here
What kind of weed are you smoking..lol. You killed your engine so bad that it bleed...it's red, get it???lmao.
WE ALL DESERVE A BREAK HEH
LMAO, nice. Yes, everyone deserves a break here and there. Dont wire everything all backwards now haha
Keep us posted on the build. GL
4g64T 5spd
id the IM painted red?
And damn, you made your self work hard, why did you not take the trans out with the motor?
Seeing that you smoke, my guess is that this project will take while and lots of munchies later.
lol I hate smoking pipes lol.
motor mounts and header are from ebay...but I bought header wrap and high heat paint from pepboys and hooked it up.....Im gonna be doin a lot of shit now that the motor is out i wil post pics...
and i didnt pull the tranny so it doesnt tease, If i pull it its not goin back in unless its a 5spd stick. I dont think its harder to pull the motor itself only thing i had an issue with is clearance with balancer pulley on the right side but took it off and it popped right out..... i got a hoist for freakin truck engines haha
Last edited by wrakd; 04-05-2010 at 01:10 PM
For the crank pulley, I would say only use it if you get the internals balanced at a shop.
Personally we only get the crank balanced in the motors we've built when we use a lightened crank pulley and use forged rods and pistons. The crank pulley/harmonic balancer aids in externally balancing the crank.
It looks like he has prothane inserts. not too hard to come by. theres also mounts and inserts in different colours from deyeme racing. u order them for a stratus/sebring/00-05 eclipse.
http://deyemeracing.com/
I was lookin up some cometic head gaskets online and they only have ones for the 7g its bogus but whatev i found this website which can make you a custom copper head gasket as thick as you want it and everything http://www.headgasket.com/gaskets.html I dont know how thick i should go 0.70 sounds good might lower the comression for when I turbo. I was wondering if any of you know a good ass gasket that might help with that and shit If anyone knows a set of arp head studs that would fit that would be awesome
How much boost do you plan on running? Do they make arp head studs for the 8g? If they make arp head studs and you dont plan on running over like 20-22 psi im more than sure a OEM composite head gasket with some copper seal and arp head studs would hold up fine as long as you deck the head and block. Cometic is over-rated and over priced. Fuck those gaskets. We went through 2 of them in my gf's 2g and we had arp head studs along with a fresh decked head.
well the 8g is the exact same as the 00-05 eclipse and i just got done doing a complete 4g64 build on my car. arp head studs as well. dont all the evo's run a stock commetic gasket?
plus lik you asked it depends how much boost he is running? if he keeps it a simple 15psi or less deending what kind of rebuild he is doing then he should be fine with a great tune.
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