does this look right to anyone?
i think i might have it figured out does this look right?
[IMG][/IMG]
does this look right to anyone?
ugh, i hate reading wires. do you have the pin out diagrams for 2g? I wouldn't know from simply looking at it, but it does appear to be right. Three wires go from the transistor to the coil.
also i see that you have the white wire labeled as tach, i do know that you will lose your tach. I'm not sure that anyone has figured this problem out yet.
I solved the tach issue last year :) You need to use a tach designed to use a coil pack instead of a distributor. The 2g turbo tach works fine if you can stuff it into the gauge cluster like I did. Otherwise you'll need to hunt one down from a '94 that came DOHC.
- Nick, 94 Galant ES - 4G64 DOHC Turbo AWD, E3-16G & Manifold, 780cc inj, fmic, DS-MAP Speed Density
"Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge..." - Charles Darwin
does the 2g tach fit, or is it really like stuffing it. I am using a 1g CAS for my setup, maybe i should get the 1g tach
It isn't a screw in affair. You'll need to do some custom fitting and a little custom wiring. There is room but the screw holes etc. don't line up properly. It isn't bad, just takes some time and thought. The tach isn't driven by the CAS it is driven by the transistor. You could check out a 1g tach to see if it will fit any better, just be sure to use the DOHC coil-type one. I just had the 2g tach on hand from my parts car.
- Nick, 94 Galant ES - 4G64 DOHC Turbo AWD, E3-16G & Manifold, 780cc inj, fmic, DS-MAP Speed Density
"Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge..." - Charles Darwin
i already have a aftermarket tach in the basement collecting dust i could use. as for right now i can still use the stock cas but i just have to clear my codes each time i wanna start the car. now i think of it i think they actually make converters from a analog to digital signal could try that to convert the signal back to analog as i am assuming the coil packs send a digital signal.
so i got the ecu in and the car is running but i am running into a problem the car is staying extremely lean and max ignition timing i get at idle is 5 to 7 degrees for some reason the car is staying in base timing anybody had this problem after the ecu swap?
Sorry but it could be any number of things that went wrong with wiring or new parts. Do you have a data logger to check all your sensors and things?
- Nick, 94 Galant ES - 4G64 DOHC Turbo AWD, E3-16G & Manifold, 780cc inj, fmic, DS-MAP Speed Density
"Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge..." - Charles Darwin
ya i have a data logger only thing that comes up is the cam angle sensor malfunction but thats suppose to
doesnt make sense to me because in jips tutorial he says to swap the injector wires and in the other tutorial it doesnt say you have to do this. iv checked and double checked my wiring the only thing im foggy on is it says to ground the little black box on the coil bracket with a screw hole in it i dont see what hes talking about?
the coil needs to be grounded, but you may have coil that is grounded to the mount itself.
If you had to change the phase of the injectors, i do believe you would also need to reverse the spark plug wires. The CAS sends out a signal that is 180 out of phase compared to the distributor. That's why you have to change the injectors, pin locations for the injectors on the ecu, in conjuction with the "1g in a 2g" You now have a 1g engine with a 2g ecu... http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-cont...02/1gina2g.pdf Read this pdf and see if it applies to your setup.
Last edited by Blue Ice; 08-18-2010 at 03:18 PM
just read you're initial post, since your parts are from a 90 tsi, that makes you're engine a 1g. you will need the pdf, for your car to run properly
the parts are actually from a 92.. im running a 92 coil pack, 92 power transistor, 95 eprom. i didnt use any 90 parts. i fixed the problem why it was leaning out the wideband gauge wasnt grounded good enough. so its a lilttle bit better im sitting at 4.6 degrees of timing and up to 10 degrees when reved but shouldnt it still be higher than this at idle. isnt optimal timing 15 to 20 degrees advanced in boost?
i checked all my wiring and everything tday everything is like it is suppose to be plugs are in correct order injector wires are swaped. gettting plenty of fuel now just stuck at 5 to 10 degrees of timing will not go over could it be from a bad knock sensor bad coolant temp sensor??
i can't hep anymore..., might actually try dsmtuners now. Not many people on here will be able to help you with the advanced questions, maybe eclipsh and dohctuner. other than us, i'm not sure of many others.
ok i did post on there and nobody did respond yet. sucks cuz everything is working really well besides the timing thanks for the help though.
Sorry, I'm not sure why it wouldn't be advancing timing. Hopefully the pros over there can help.
- Nick, 94 Galant ES - 4G64 DOHC Turbo AWD, E3-16G & Manifold, 780cc inj, fmic, DS-MAP Speed Density
"Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge..." - Charles Darwin
what actually makes timing adjust its the cam angle sensor right? when the ecu sees what the cam angle is it adjust the spark according right? so how are guys running stock cam angle sensors with this ecu when this cas is off 180 degrees from what the 2g ecu is actually seeing. or is this why the plug wires have to be inverted.
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