+1 Nice tutorial Corey
I searched and didn't see any tut for this so here it is. I'm not sure if the I4 is the same as the V6 but this is for the V6. This is assuming everything goes the way its supposed to and if you plan on removing the steering knuckle. If you don't know what you doing its not my fault if some breaks or whatever. Having done this before I kind of took the pics ass backwards. But you'll have the idea. Sorry for the pics. Here it is:
This is how it starts remove the tire. Should be a 21mm socket for the lug nuts.
Tire removed
Should be a 17mm socket for the castle nut. Remove the tie rod coder pin and castle nut. With a hammer hit the outside where the tie rod is. It may be stuck. Be careful not to hit the tie rod itself. Do this until the tie rod pops out and move it to the side.
Should be a 17mm socket for the caliper bracket bolts. Kinda took this afterwards but remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. With a wire hanger hang the caliper on the spring to avoid ripping up the brake line. Then remove the rotor.
Should be a 32mm socket for the axle nut. Remove the coder pin and loosen the axle nut and remove the axle nut and washer. Now at this point your gonna want to check if your axle is free. You can do this by putting pressure on the axle with your finger or hand and see if it moves in and out. If not the axle may be frozen. If your lucky a couple taps with a hammer should free it up. If not your S.O.L.(shit outta luck) and may have to replace more then just your hub. Be careful not to mushroom the tip of the axle.
With a 24mm wrench and a 24mm socket loosen the bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. And drop the knuckle and remove the axle. As showed here.
Here this is the nut for the pinch bolt for the ball joint. Should be a 17mm socket. With a hammer lightly hit the bolt til it comes out.
Here with a large screwdriver and hammer pry the opening so you can wiggle the knuckle free of the ball joint. Before you do this your gonna want to unplug the ABS sensor if applicable. But if your not planning on moving the knuckle too far from the car there is no need to unplug the sensor.
This is the end result of removing the steering knuckle.
With a 17mm socket remove the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly to the knuckle. Since your replacing it hold it to the side and bang the hub out with a hammer until it pops out.
And this is what it looks like with the hub separated from the knuckle.
To assemble it back just follow the steps in reverse. Thanks for looking feel free if I might have missed something to add it. Hope it helps. Maybe a sticky???? lol
+1 Nice tutorial Corey
Last edited by Rach3T8G; 10-06-2010 at 12:01 AM
- Chris -2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 5MT: My DD
2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 5MT
________________________________________________
DRL Delete | 6K HIDS | AUX Cord Wired in RF Head Unit | DC Sprots CAI | OBX Longtube Header | Aero Turbine 2540i Muffler
lol i haven't done it yet so i wouldn't know
- Chris -2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 5MT: My DD
2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 5MT
________________________________________________
DRL Delete | 6K HIDS | AUX Cord Wired in RF Head Unit | DC Sprots CAI | OBX Longtube Header | Aero Turbine 2540i Muffler
nice tut, u need a better cam though lol
Nice tut EFRAIN!!
I expected the Rocky Mountains to be a little rockier than this.
good job bro......
p e a c e ......
good job on the tut! Though the hub can be removed without completely removing the knuckle from the control arm.
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