shit. you can try letting it soak in PB blaster over night, and then using a screw extractor that works with reverse threads and drill that into the left over stud
i was removing the 7 bolts holding the triangle and circle brace to the crank, and one of them stripped!!!! i tried using bolt extractor and it cant grab it because the head is too flat!!!! can some one please help me!!! spent 9 hours yesterday trying 2 get it out..... plz help!!
shit. you can try letting it soak in PB blaster over night, and then using a screw extractor that works with reverse threads and drill that into the left over stud
This is the bolt </3..... im making my car a 5 speed....
i was told to heat the bolt till it was fire red and hit it with a happer a cpuple of times..... then use a.... i dunno how toy say this in english... XD in spanish its called a alicate de presion.... preasure wrench??? xD sry for my bad english... anyways will that work?
my last bolt was stipping in my swap. i cut half of the head off and then tapped it with a chisel and a hammer and it came loose. if you think thats hard, wait until the pilot bearing. i still havent been able to get the bearing puller out of it and i did my swap in what july lmao
edit, my bolt was one of the 3 bolts on the triange brace. my flywheel bolts came right out, those are too strong to drill from what i heard
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
go get a cheap 5/8th's socket and use a map gas torch to heat it up red hot, take a hammer and pound it onto the head of the bolt let it cool for about a hour and then go try and get it off if it comes out great throw the bolt and the socket away. Yes i know that it is a 17mm (.662) but since 5/8th's is smaller (.625) it should grab when pounded onto the head of the bolt!
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
Cut a head of another bolt off, weld it on that bolt.
mitches idea may work. give that a shot.
may i ask how you were removing these bolts? socket? wrench? if wrench, open or box end etc just so we know how that happened
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
probably not using a 6 point, oh that reminds me make sure the socket that you buy is a six point or it will spin.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
id be scared of breaking the bolt off if its welded on.
2.4 dohc turbo, 10 psi,small 16g, evo 3 02 housing,98 flashable ecu,maft,3inch magnaflow exhaust,aem wideband,blitz turbo timer,egt gauge,balance shaft delete,a/c delete,battery in trunk,arp headstuds,fmic,mbc, (Wiseco 8:7:1 pistons coming soon.)
Use an impact gun.
I needed an air chisel with 2600 psi to get 5 of my bolts off...peano will tell you. Good luck!
"Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"
1. Try soaking with PB Blaster.
2. Heat and cold cycles (torch and ice or dry ice) and shock (use a punch and hammer and smack the bolt as hard as you can) should help losen up some of the rust, ect that has it fused. I'd be cautious about heating bolt red hot for fear of posibily damaging the end of the crank.
3. Repeat steps one and two periodically.
4. Take a file to file the bolt head to create two oposing flat surfaces that you can grab with a wrench (not pliers or vice grips).
5. Drill out the center of the bolt taking care not to run into the threads of the crank. Unfortunately in my experience most of the bolt extractors tools work at best only 50% of the time and if they break off inside the bolt you are in a worse situation as the extractors themselves are usally case hardened and near impossible to drill out..
6. Some machine shop have a tool that they can use to burn the broken stud out. It was like an arch welder but was made especially to destroy bolts stuck in fly wheels, blocks, ect. I had to do this several years ago on a flywheel.
7. Worse case, cut, dremel or file the bolt head off. This will leave you a stub of the bolt sticking out that you work on. If nothing else, the stub of the bolt sticking out can act as a pin (dowel) for alignment and you'll still have the other 6 other bolts to secure it.
8. While I have never tried welding another nut on top of the rounded off one and then going after it with an impact gun I think that would work. Heating a socket and smacking it onto the rounded bolt, also sounds like it could work. I'd probably try and shape the bolt head with a file so the socket was a closer fit.
Last edited by eksz; 10-08-2010 at 07:15 PM
jjj
98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL
well today we have horrible weather here in Puerto Rico, hopefully i could get hat pb blaster stuff and soak the mofo all weekend xD, on mondy we will work on it again, hopefully one of your ideas will work.... and not ruin my engine... thnks every1!!!
Walmart carries PB Blaster if you can't find it anywhere else. Try calling a machine shop that does engine rebuilds to see if they have that tool that destroys the bolt by burning or blasting it out. Any place that rebuilds engines sees stuck and broken bolts all the time. It will cost you some bucks but well worth it when you consider the time and aggravation you save. Good luck
jjj
98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL
how about drilling a hole in the head bolt
Its hardened filing will not work on it very well it would take forever to get it out, your best bet is to get a smaller sized socket over the head of the bolt to try and crack it loose. If you heat the bolt im certin that they are lock tight'd in so this could be causing your problems and just heating the bolt up will get it out.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
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