h1 is a h4 harness minus the low beam light area, i just got 2 h4 harnesses and wired them up not using the top wire
ALright i want my high beams! I have the nokya h7 wire harness and need the h1 harness, where can I get them? i have looked and am so lost! Anyone have them?
Accident. Deemed Unfixable. Got a check for it.
h1 is a h4 harness minus the low beam light area, i just got 2 h4 harnesses and wired them up not using the top wire
OMG, your a GOD! Wait, so i put my h4 wires, do the mod (w/ no low beam) and buy an h1 bulb and it will work?????
Accident. Deemed Unfixable. Got a check for it.
you don't need a harness for the H1 beams... the H1 bulb has 1 terminal... this is the positive. the negative is the actual headlight housing / clip. just connect the high beam postive from the OE harness to the bulb w/ a female spade connector. as for the negative (ground), just crimp a connector to a wire you tap from the OE harness ground and screw that connector under the spring/clip that holds in the bulb using the screw that holds the clip into the back of the reflector socket of the hi-beam.
as for the functionality, you will need to do the diode trick... the OE H4 wiring causes the low beams to shut off when the high beams are activated in order to save the H4 (dual filament) bulb from overheating and busting. since you now have a dedicated bulb for low (H7) and another dedicated bulb for high (H1), you want your low beams to stay on when you hit your high beams, otherwise they would just alternate. here is the diode trick:
there r 2 positive wires that go to your H7 an H1 bulbs... u want to bridge those wires w/ a diode. a diode basically is like a one-way-valve for current. you want to have the high beams (+) send power to the low beams (+), but not vice versa so that when you hit your brights, you lows stay on drawing power from the highs.
http://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp
you want the ANODE side (no stripe) connected to the high beam positive (H1) and the CATHODE side (w/ stripe) connected to the low beam positivem H7). i soldered the diode to a short length of insulated wire at each end to lengthen it then wrapped the diode in electrical tape. you can simply splice these wire leads into the harness on the wires that lead to the bulbs.
the diodes you want are rated for 12VDC.
mine came with a part for teh h1 to plug into, thats why i said that the H1 sat in the seat of the harness and it had 2 prongs, 1 postive and 1 ground, and it used a h4 style harness
one thought though, When I first got my jdms I had extra parts ( i bought 2 pairs of used JDMS) and made my h4 bulb fit the high beam relector. I ran it through my fog lights wire. I then put my other pair of high beam reflector si the socket is clean again. Instead of all of this, can i just buy a h1 bulb, run my h4 plug to my fog, so I can run my standard h7 lights and my h1's when necessary? Is there a power output difference between the fog wires and the high beam? Can you imagine what im thinking?
Accident. Deemed Unfixable. Got a check for it.
oh, my friend also told me that I shouldn't run my h4 wire harness becuase if I get a buld that runs over 50w it may burn out the wire. So imma be buying the h1 harness for 30 shipped and a japanese bulbs from a friends shop for 20bucks (not NOKYA! cheap A** bulbs)
Accident. Deemed Unfixable. Got a check for it.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Sillyasianz)</div><div class='quotemain'>one thought though, When I first got my jdms I had extra parts ( i bought 2 pairs of used JDMS) and made my h4 bulb fit the high beam relector. I ran it through my fog lights wire. I then put my other pair of high beam reflector si the socket is clean again. Instead of all of this, can i just buy a h1 bulb, run my h4 plug to my fog, so I can run my standard h7 lights and my h1's when necessary? Is there a power output difference between the fog wires and the high beam? Can you imagine what im thinking?</div>
there shouldn't be any difference in the 12VDC output of the high beam and fog.... but i don't understand what you are trying to do. if you run your high beams from your fogs, then you can't run your low beams and fogs only w/o your hi's. btw how did you get the H4 bulbs to fit the H1 slot? the wiring i laid out above (earlier post) does not affect your fogs or your corners and allows you to run the lows and fogs like stock, but when you hit the brights, the lows stay on w/ the brights but the fogs will go off, but then again you could run another pair of diodes to power the fogs as well.
Okay, There is your way and my idea. If the volts will be same (high beam wires and fog light) then why not wire my high beams to by fog wires. So instead of pushing my high beams to activate them, i can cheat and just push my fog button, and now both my h7 and h1 bulbs turn on. When I dont want my h1's on all have to do is push my fog button again. Would that work the same?>
Accident. Deemed Unfixable. Got a check for it.
I think our 'Silly' friend is referring to actually disconnecting his fogs and using the wiring to run his high-beams. I think it should work fine, i you can understand the re-wiring process above [I cant :oops:]
Extacly. Cut the fog light plug. Then re-wire the h4 wire harness to the 2 fog light wires, then use it for the h1 bulbs. Understand?
Accident. Deemed Unfixable. Got a check for it.
so you wouldn't have fogs anymore? btw, the H4 harness (plug) will not power the H1 bulb unless you ground the housing clip. check out H1 bulbs, they only have 1 terminal and that is the positive... the negative or ground is the bulb's collar; so it does not work like the H7 bulb (or even the H4 bulb) where 1 terminal is positive and 1 is negative. an H1 bulb will not light up outside of the housing simply plugged into the harness (like the H7 or H4) since the housing is it's source to ground.
as for fog leads running the brights, it should work that you can use your fog light switch for your brights, but why would you want to? you will lose the functionality of the lever and of the dash indicator. call me up and we will hook up so i can help you re-wire. it's really not that hard.
kool, well do that, but with my initial V kit, i dont need (or use) the fogs. I jsut use the JDMS.
Accident. Deemed Unfixable. Got a check for it.
o ok, 4got you were getting the kit bumper on. well if you want to run the hi beams through the fog switch/circuit, it should work. i would still try to run it through the stock controls since it would keep the dash indicator. also later on in the future if you were to add fogs back on, you could use the stock fog switch / circuit to run those. although the diode trick looks like it's complicated when written out, it's really simple and keeps all stock function. actually it does have one really cool side effect: when you "flash" your brights at somebody when all you lights are off (like during the day), all four beams turn on together. if you wire the fog leads to the hi beams, you won't b able to "flash" your brights at all if your headlights are not on, since the fog light circuit is disabled when the headlights are off.Originally Posted by Sillyasianz
My high beam (H 1) bulb in my JDM's has 2 terminals, not one. Also when my headlights came in the are missing that plastic seat that the h7 bulb goes in...anyone know where I can get one???? Anyone know where I can get some 1 Piece JDMs for a decent price?
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
yes but he ment that only one of those terminals run currne thats the positive...the ground is the bulb housing itself....sommeone correct me if im wrong....but im pretty sure...thats how mine r wiredOriginally Posted by Stewi
Nope...its not the round rubber seal, its like a plastic piece the bulb sits in, it has terminals on it, and its the piece that latches to the socket. If I can get a digital camera I will take a pic of it so I can give you a better idea of what it is.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
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