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Thread: 2002 4cyl es won't idle

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  1. #1

    2002 4cyl es won't idle

    Ok here's the way it went down. Got crc mass air flow cleaner. Sprayed maf then in throttle body. Went to start it, really hard start then cleared up. Went driving around for most of the day it's was fine. Next morning on the way to the bay about 20 min. Into the trip it starts stalling at every stop. Oh and it was stuck in 3rd gear?(auto trans) went home pulled the codes and it said something about 3rd gear ratio? And idle lower then expected? So I pulled the plug on the maf sensor and it idle ok not great, but it didn't stall. Now it dont idle with or with out that plugged in(maf) so I searched and didn't find this exact problem so here I am???? Thanks

  2. #2
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    About the stalling, you should unplug the battery for about 10 mins and then reconnect it the ECU can reset. What happened was that overtime build of "junk" began to clog the throttle body plate at a slow rate messing up your idle so the ECU began to compensate by forcing more are to keep a good idle, now that you have clean it all off the sudden the buildup is gone but the ECU is a still forcing air through. After you reconnect your battery you may still stall go drive for a few miles it will be in relearn mode so it will idle funny, possibly stall and shift weird. It's OK its relearning everything.

  3. #3
    Ok I'll try that, I'm at work now so I'll go pull the neg battery cable and let it sit unplugged for about an hour or so then go drive around. Should I try to keep it running or let it stall? Cause right now I keep the idle up myself. Thanks

  4. #4
    Ok did that, drove 20miles stalling at every stop, so now what?

  5. #5
    Btw Idk if this is related or not but my speedometer is bouncing up and down when driving and sitting still? When I first start the car it will idle and drive fine for a while the the oil light starts to flicker then just stays on?

  6. #6
    Oh shit! It did work your were right!! Thanks!! It learned!!!

  7. #7
    Ok now it's doing it again! What's next? Coils?

  8. #8
    I pulled all the plugs and oils all over the top and the threads? Cleaned it all up same shit?!! Will not idle. So I'm pulling the neg. Cable and going to try this again... So if anybody could help me I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks.

  9. #9
    It sounds like you might need to replace your sparkplug tube seals,it seems like the oil is getting on the spark plugs and fouling them out.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by galantlvr34 View Post
    It sounds like you might need to replace your sparkplug tube seals,it seems like the oil is getting on the spark plugs and fouling them out.
    I've replaced them and the valve cover gasket too. I just pulled all of them and cleaned them up... Same shit. I can get it to idle fine If I pull the battery cable and wait 10min but then it eventually fucks up again?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    About the stalling, you should unplug the battery for about 10 mins and then reconnect it the ECU can reset. What happened was that overtime build of "junk" began to clog the throttle body plate at a slow rate messing up your idle so the ECU began to compensate by forcing more are to keep a good idle, now that you have clean it all off the sudden the buildup is gone but the ECU is a still forcing air through. After you reconnect your battery you may still stall go drive for a few miles it will be in relearn mode so it will idle funny, possibly stall and shift weird. It's OK its relearning everything.
    How long does this take?

  12. #12
    Is the check engine light on?It seems like it could be your iac(idle air control valve) it might have got wet when you cleaned the throttle body.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by galantlvr34 View Post
    Is the check engine light on?It seems like it could be your iac(idle air control valve) it might have got wet when you cleaned the throttle body.
    I sprayed in side the tb so it def got wet.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Hevymetalg View Post
    I sprayed in side the tb so it def got wet.
    i would try and replace the iac then and see if that helps.And next time you clean the throttle body out use throttle body cleaner instead of maf cleaner.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by galantlvr34 View Post
    i would try and replace the iac then and see if that helps.And next time you clean the throttle body out use throttle body cleaner instead of maf cleaner.
    Don't ya think I could test it out first? Do you have a link or some info on how to check the iac? I don't want just slap in new parts. Hell I would just go to the dealer if I wanted to get ripped off.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Hevymetalg View Post
    Don't ya think I could test it out first? Do you have a link or some info on how to check the iac? I don't want just slap in new parts. Hell I would just go to the dealer if I wanted to get ripped off.
    There is a way to test it is on here somewhere i just have to see if i can find it.What you can try first to is to get throttle body cleaner and clean out the throttle body to get rid of any of the other stuff you put in it.

  17. #17
    I would watch some of the realfixesrealfast videos on youtube. Throwing parts unnecessarily at a problem can cost you a lot of money.

    You really need a code scanner that can pull live data. I picked up a cable online for $21 that goes into a laptop.

    If you've flooded the TB, pull the fuel pump relay or pull the wires off the injectors and crank the engine. It will start and run for about 2 seconds and stall, but that will have mostly emptied out any liquid in the area.

    An IAC is going to cost you about 200-250 new.

    Try this also:
    http://www.club3g.com/forum/problem-...ing-temps.html

    The Spyder GS has the same engine as the Galant.
    Last edited by stonent; 06-08-2011 at 11:26 AM

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by stonent View Post
    I would watch some of the realfixesrealfast videos on youtube. Throwing parts unnecessarily at a problem can cost you a lot of money.

    You really need a code scanner that can pull live data. I picked up a cable online for $21 that goes into a laptop.

    If you've flooded the TB, pull the fuel pump relay or pull the wires off the injectors and crank the engine. It will start and run for about 2 seconds and stall, but that will have mostly emptied out any liquid in the area.

    An IAC is going to cost you about 200-250 new.

    Try this also:
    http://www.club3g.com/forum/problem-...ing-temps.html

    The Spyder GS has the same engine as the Galant.
    Thanks, I can drive the car all day but it just stalls at ever stop I have to keep my foot on the gas cause it just won't idle. I want to pull the ica cause maybe when I sprayed the mac cleaner in the tb all the dirt drained down into it?

  19. #19
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Here's a thread on how to check the IAC
    As far as resetting the ecu, it sounds like you did it correctly every time, it's only a matter of a faulty component now.
    https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...light=test+iac

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by oakrdrs187 View Post
    Here's a thread on how to check the IAC
    As far as resetting the ecu, it sounds like you did it correctly every time, it's only a matter of a faulty component now.
    https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...light=test+iac
    So I read all of this, and I'm leaning toward cleaning it up first, then hit up the junk yard for another iac... So I need to look for 99-02 galant or is their some other cars I can get the same ica out of? Thanks

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