when i was auto i was running 15psi on an evo 9 set up..power wise was around 250 ish with torque in the 260+ and i was running no cooler...i was like that for about three years before i swapped to five speed, and now going to fully built evo motor :P.
it all depends on how you drive...i drove it like a daily driver which is what it was so transmission didnt really see any abuse unless i did a WOT run which sometimes not always would not shift as quickly due to the RPMs moving so fast and the computer not being used to seeing the RPMS move so fast to send a signal to shift gears.(anyone correct me if im wrong, but the A/T shifts gears when the computer sends the a signal for it to change...so with the increase in power and RPMS redlining faster than what the computer was programmed to do its only natural for it LAG in between shifts??? i know its something of that nature..so if that being true, tapping into that signal to be more alert would that make the transmission shift more smoothly????...i just throwing ideas out there...)
my suggestion if your gonna rag on the car, then start looking for replacement transmissions other than that you will be fine...others might think different, but this is from my experience being boosted with A/T for 3 years.
Last edited by whokilledhoughes; 06-28-2011 at 08:02 PM
Fully Built 4G63
HKS 272
ported Dual Ball Bearing FP RED 84mm 25psi w/ external dump
Really? I wouldnt have thought that the auto trany was that good. So maybe ill just look into doing the turbo setup first and a 5-speed swap later down the road. Now i just have to plan and figure out what is the best setup for me.
Currently on my 3rd 8G... Not giving up this time!
I have been inspired to move onward with the turbo setup. after hearing that the auto trany is strong enough, I believe that turbo is the next route i want to go. Ill start off small and work my way from there. One step at a time.
Currently on my 3rd 8G... Not giving up this time!
Well one thing to remember is that your tranny is water cooled from the factory. Via the cooler line in the radiator.
This line also doubles as a fluid warmer in the winter since it will take longer to warm the transmission up in the cold. Its important in the winter to remember that your transmission relies on pressure to control shift points and the grip of the clutch packs. Short and sweet, its just as important for your tranny to be warmed up before you push it, as it is for it to stay cool.
Although manual transmissions can be difficult to get into gear when they are cold, it doesn't effect the torque capacity of the clutch. Auto trannies need the fluid to be within a certain operating range.
My suggestion to you is to get an external air cooled automatic transmission cooler that is thermostatically switched.
That way your trans reaches operating temperature quicker because when its cold, the cooler is bypassed. of course when the fluid warms up the thermostat will open and allow the cooler to do its job.
Thats the way my oil cooler is set up from the factory on my 1990 4g63t. Engine warms up quick, and the oil stays appropriately cooled.
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
Wow, thats good advice. Thanks man.
Currently on my 3rd 8G... Not giving up this time!
ok i have an 02 galant i want to turbo. i wanted to do 5spd swap but since the 02 galants have not yet been successfully swapped without a check engine code i cannot do that because of inspection. so im pretty much screwed out of that so i been wanting to turbo it so my only question i have which is a dumb one but oh well is when it says "must have a upgraded ECU" does it mean i need to just get my ECU tuned or is there a upgraded ECU out there that i have not been able to find? or do i even need to worry about that since i will obviously be running less than 10 psi of boost?
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