car shuddrs and may shut off when A/Cis on FIX!!

[bgood12]

I post this because I have looked around on here for the last 2 years or so for a definite answer to why my can shudders when I turn on the A/C; even to the point that if I turn hard the car may stall out. What I did find on here was that since the A/C pump and steering pump are run on the same belts i was overtaxing the system when I used both. It also said that when first dileing the car in the morning and when turning hard the IAC motor keeps the rpms up so the car does not stall.

FOUND THE PROBLEM
So, I looked at my IAC. It looked fine to me and thought I might need a new IAC but I didn't want to pay 200+ for it so I did what most people here do, I disconnected it and then reset my throttle body screw so that i idled at around 1000 and then when the A/C is on around 500-600 rpm. This worked for all winter in Kansas with single digit temps and below freezing wind chill, and for all spring up until now when I had had to use the A/C(we are stuck in the heat dome for last 2 months, been over 100 most every day,and Im from texas so its been hot). anyway here here is the fix.

THE FIX
Upon rechecing my IAC a month back I noticed that oneof the wires had broken, it was hard and brittle and when trying to disconnect the socket of the IAC another brittle wire broke. I searched for Mitsu pigtails to just put back in and I also thought about getting a wiring look but it was 100 and junk yard and 300 from mitsu too much. So While at junkyard I found an eclipse and cut off the connector to the IAC that had been left in the car when the engine was pulled. Next,I went to radioshack and instead of just getting heat shrink or regular terminals i got their 6 pin male and female connectors with pigtails, 6 bucks total. Got home used the galant socket as reference since the eclipse socket had diff wire colors,added the pigtails to each side of the wires and threaded them into the sockets I bough (Will load picture later). now instead or worrying what I will do if the wires get brittle again All I have to do is disconnect my connector and fix the wiring. turned the car on and it went straight to 1000 rpm then when I turned on A/C it did not have the slightest bit of extra rattle ( I have a few prothanes in). Ok going to work and I will post tonight about how it drove.

[galantboost]

yes please post pictures this sounds like a similar problem my car has

[bgood12]

I'm at work. Now will in like 3 and ahalf hours but basically you buy the stuff at radio ack for 6 bucks the metal terminals you will have to put on I started with the connector taken from junk yard once on there insert metal ends that now have wires on them ino the plastic connector boxes to mkake it easier match thw wires with the connector hole that is the same is the wire in connector. Then go out to the car and cut the old connector leave enough wire in the old connecot so you can see what wires go where. Then add the metal pigtails on the harness side of where you just cut . Now use the car connector you just cut to put the wires in the same. Holes on your new connecotr. Then you go get the iac connector from the junyard that you already have made put the pigtails and connector on and hook it up then hook up the iac and start the car

[galantboost]

alright cool im gonna go look at my iac when i get a chance because last winter my car used to stall out when i turned but then after i changed the belt i didnt stall out anymore but i still hear a rattling in my a/c and the idle is still low...so if my problem is the same then this will really help

[bgood12]

OK, so after driving to work and everything the IAC is most definitely working the car can now handle A/C without dying and everything and of course another problem comes up, no I'm idling at 2000 rpm but thankfully I probably just need to readjust my throttle body screw so it should be fine.

If you are confident in working with wiresand terminals try this if not practice on some wire you have laying around and buy two of the radioshack parts and practice with one set. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK ONCE THE HARNESS IS CUT THERE IS NO GOING BACK.

The white part is the part you can buy from radio shack and the other end is the connector taken from the junkyard car.
PARTS:radio shack: 6 position female interlocking connector
6 position male interlocking connector
(they each have the metal pins inside so that's all you need aside from a crimp tool if you don't have one)



so take the metal pins out of the female connector package and attach the metal parts onto each wire its easy, lay the wire inside the metal part then clamp down one wing then the other wing on the opposite side there are 4 wings to clamp down.(these are also how the oem car does their sockets.

NOW! since my JY car wires had colors that my oem hardness did not have (only 2 wires and there are two red wires that don't look different)so just put the wires into the radio shack connector the same way they are arranged in the JY car connector so if a red is in bottom right corner put that into the radioshack connector so that when looking at the RS connector from the front the wire is in the bottom right(so from the back the bottom left). and do this until its complete. you just push the metal into the socket until there is a subtle click it might or might not happen but use a nail or small tool to push them in so you don't have to push on the wires.



Now do the samething with the car. you can do this byunhooking the iac then if you look at the front of the throttle body the wire look has a clip that's holding in. remove that clip slip the harness under and over the intake tube into the throttle body. !!!!DONT PULL IT HARD THE HARNESS IS CONNECTED TO SOMETHING ELSE BY TWO WIRES UNDER YOUR IAC!!!! so just doing this will give you enough room alternatively you can take you little elbow of the intake off to get more room.

Now,cut the wires of the IAc connector about a half inch or so from the connector so that you can see what wires go into the connector holes for reference when you use the radioshack one.

Just put on the metal pieces I did them one by one and after doing one wrapped it in electrical tape cause I was not sure if power was still going to anything or you can undo your negative terminal. Insert the wires in so that they match the way YOUR OEM socket wires went and then just hook the radioshack connectors and connect the IAC connector tot he IAC.

this is what it looks like in the end


After its all done get electrical tape and wrap any wires you needed to get a better look at I had to make sure which red wires I was connecting so took the oem electrical insulation and tape off the first picture. Dont forget to put the wiring look clip back in its hole and if it breaks again just undo the clip you made and the clip from the IAC and remake


but check wires on your IAC and make sure they are not broken due to age and if they are try this. Thanks

[bgood12]

So I closed by throttle body screw completely and my idle went to spec with and without my A/Con I drove on the highway and was still idling fine at the stop light. Only in park is my idle high and my CEL that was on went off so everything checks out.