The Galant Center - Powered by vBulletin

Thread: heater core

Showing results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    07-13-2005
    Location
    houston texas
    Posts
    64

    heater core

    has any one replaced the heater core? I bought the new core, just need to install it. any tips or maybe a tutorial. i did a search but found nothing.
    paid4.....99 galant

  2. #2
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-04-2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,344
    Ohh you are in luck my friend...well not really. You are in luck that I took my entire car apart over the winter and the heater core was one of the things I removed so I can tell you how to do it. However, it is a pain in the ass and its alot of work. There are two ways to do it. The heater core is in a plastci housing, you can attempt to get it out while just removing the top of the housing and leaving the base installed in the car, or you can remove the whole housing, bring the housing outside the car, change the heater core and put the complete housing back in. The upside to leaving the housing in the car is that you dont have to disconnect, drain and recharge the A/C system, the downside is that its harder to do with it in the car. If you opt to take the entire housing out, you need to take your car to an A/C shop and have them drain the system. The refrigerant in the A/C system is extemely harmful to the environment and to humans if inhaled, so the shop has a special machine that drains it into a high pressure storage tank. I have only done this by removing the entire heater core housing, so thats how im going to explain it to you. You can improvise if you want to do it the other way.

    Before you do anything, disconnect the battery and wait an hour for all capacitors in the car to drain. Remember this, any completely yellow wiring or connectors behind the dash is for the airbags, take extra special care when working with these wires. Also, airbags can be deployed by discharging static electricity around them, verfy unlikely but possible, so maybe you want to wear gloves of some sort to do this and dont where your Adidas swooshy jogging pants as those things love static electricity.

    So here goes, this is how I did it, you might be able to leave a few parts still in tact but I took them out for more working space. First thing, remove the passenger side seat. Then remove the center console, there are bolts at the bottom inside the arm rest compartment and 2 more behind the ash tray. Once that is out, remove the radio bezel and lower dash. The lower dash is easy to remove, just find all the bolts and take it off. Next remove the blower motor assembly. This is located under the passenger side dash. Note, you want to take out all the large bolts so that you remove it as a complete assembly, if you take out the little phillips head screws, your gonna remove it in pieces which is more trouble than its worth. Now that you have the Blower motor out, this would be an ideal time to contact the dealer and get a new in-cabin air filter, its located at the top part of the blower motor and takes 2 minutes to change with the blower motor out of the car. Now comes one of the fun parts, taking out the upper dash. First start by removing both "A" pillars, these are the ones that run along the outside edge of the windshield, but inside the car. Next, remove the gauge cluster bezel. There are 2 phillips head bolts in the top of it, once that is out, remove the cluster itself, there are 2 phillips screws on each side of it. slide it out gently and remove the wiring connectors that go to it. Next remove the upper dash, there is one bolt behind the gauge cluster on the bottom, I believe 2 behind the radio bezel and one or 2 on each end behind the fuse box cover and behind the cover on the passenger side. Be sure that you remove all parts slowly and check for any wiring that is connected to the parts and disconnect it as needed. Oops, I almost forgot the PITA part, this wont be too hard if you have little hands, I dont have little hands so there you go. The passenger side airbag door needs to be removed to get the upper dash out. There are 4 bolts that hold this on, but they are in a tight spot. There is one on each end and 2 on the back side of the airbag housing. Im pretty sure they are 12mm bolts and this is easiest done with an small open end wrench or if you have it, a closed end ratchet action wrench. Once the airbag door is removed the dash will slide right off and out.

    Congrats, your almost half way done. Now, behind the dash and the radio bezel there is a thin metal frame that houses the radio and heater controls, take this out. There is a bunch of wiring run all around this thing, my advice, do what I did, take pictures of this thing from every angle and save them so you know how the wiring goes when you put it back together. This part is held in by 10mm bolts, two on each side at the bottom and3 or 4 in the center at the top. here is a tip, the wiring that is connected to this thing is held in with cable ties that have a a locking piece that slides into the holes on the frame. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to depress the locking clip and slide them out without damaging them so you can reinstall them easily later on. Now for the fun part, the main dash bar. its that giant bar that looks like a sideways piece of fence post, you dont have to fully remove it, but my best advice is to have a helper for this part as that bar is heavy. There are 3, 14mm bolts that thold this in at the top near the bottom of the windshield over the steering column and 1 long bolt at each end of the bar. Before you loosen the bar, remove the nuts that hold the heater core housing into place, Im pretty sure there was 4 or 5 of them, all 12mm.

    Now, go and pop the hood, you need to remove the two coolant lines that you see going into your firewall, when you remove them, those two barb fittings you see are apart of the heeater core, remember these, because when your trying to slide the heater core out, they are gonna hit and get stuck on every single piece of wire hanging behind the dash. Next, once you have the shop drain the A/C system, remove the A/C line that bolts into the wirewall, behind that is a rectangular block with a allen head bolt through it, that is the A/C expansion valve, remove it and keep it in clean place for later reinstallation.

    Ok, now go and get your helper. remove the bolts that hold in the main dash support bar, have your helper lift the bar up as much as possible to give you enough room to slide the heater core out. Be careful as to how much he moves the bar, pay special attention not to rip or pull any of the wiring that is on that bar. REMEMBER, the heater core is FULL OF COOLANT, you might want to plug up those two barb fittings so that when your trying to get it out that your not spilling coolant all over your carpet. It is not going to come out willingly, put a little muscle into it and rock it back and forth and you want to slide it out the passenger side, since the driver side is more cluttered with the pedals and steering column. Once its out, set it aside and put the two end bolts back in the bar just to hold it in place so it doesnt fall and break stuff.

    At this point, remove the screws that hold the housing together on top and remove the heater core and replace it. Put it back in the reverse order of the instructions I have just given you. If you have all the tools needed which isnt much and some mechanical ability this will take you a full day to complete. Service manuals allow either 5 or 6 labor hours for a shop to do this, I cant remember off hand, but I dont even thing that is enough honestly. I have a pretty good mechnical skills and it took me and Bryant (Xska55) a while to do this.

    Once you put it all back together, have the A/C recharged and top off your coolant system for the coolant you lost in the heater core. I hope all this helps, im going to ice my sore fingers from typing all of this. I checked for pics, I dont have any more or else I would have thrown them up for some reference. Trust me, take pics while your doing it.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  3. #3
    New Member
    Join Date
    07-13-2005
    Location
    houston texas
    Posts
    64
    cool ! thats what i was looking for...i have the lower dash out, the blower motor, and the center counsel and both seats...i see the heater core. so i am going to try and remove it with out taking the whole unit out, think its possible?
    paid4.....99 galant

  4. #4
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-04-2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,344
    Yeah I think its possible, but for me, taking the housing out was easier. When I did it, my goal wasnt to change the heater core, I had to change the engine harness, and it goes thru the firewall right behind the heater core housing. You can leave the housing in if you want, just put a bunch of rags and towels on the floor and pull the carpet back so you dont get coolant all over the place.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  5. #5
    New Member
    Join Date
    07-13-2005
    Location
    houston texas
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewi
    Yeah I think its possible, but for me, taking the housing out was easier. When I did it, my goal wasnt to change the heater core, I had to change the engine harness, and it goes thru the firewall right behind the heater core housing. You can leave the housing in if you want, just put a bunch of rags and towels on the floor and pull the carpet back so you dont get coolant all over the place.
    cool..thanks a lot man...i just didnt wanna fuck around with air bags
    paid4.....99 galant

  6. #6
    Experienced TGC Member
    Join Date
    07-13-2005
    Location
    * Upstate NY *
    Posts
    1,289
    So i dont need to remove the upper dash to change out my heater core? Anybody have pics? And Paid4, was your installation a success? I need to have mine done ASAP. The mornings are already beginning to get cold up here. And i dont want to be stuck with no heat once the snow hits. :shock:

  7. #7
    New Member
    Join Date
    07-13-2005
    Location
    houston texas
    Posts
    64
    mine was not a success..... :( ...looks like the upper dash needs to come out
    paid4.....99 galant

  8. #8
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-04-2003
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,344
    I told you guys it wasnt easy. Its something that is going to take almost all weekend for two people to do it.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  9. #9
    oh joy joy to the heater core. basically your entire dash needs to come out. There is 4 bolts that hold the metal bar in place....they are guide bolts.....refer to the service manual, basically you just reposition them and the bar will pull out i believe 4 inches......i ended up taking those bolts out and yanking hard on the bar to pull it further. I used a 90 degree philips to get the 4 screws out that hold the heater core in place.....only two went back in cause it was a pain in the balls.

  10. #10

    reply

    If you are still messing with it I have changed my heater core successfully but it took me a while and lots of long nights. I had another galant that I took the heater core out of so i saw what i need to do in case I broke any parts. I took EVERYTHING out of upper and lower dash the whole flooring( because it was soaked with antifreeze) and even took out the frame across the dash dropped the steering wheel and column because the black plastic blower thing had to come out or there would be no room for the heater core to move back into the back of the car . You should be able to see the two pipes coming out of the fire wall with two hoses those need to be disconnected before pulling the heater core out after removing the plasic housing around the heater core on the inside of the car. the pipes are probably 6 inches into the engine bay so they would need to back up at leaste that and there is not that much room between the plastic to the heater core. the heater core was 80 at the dealer but I used the one from the other car and took the new one back to the dealer for a small restocking fee. it is a crapload of labor but I figured 80 was better than 800 to 1000 depending on where its done at. any questions pm me and I will help what i can.
    I have a salvage galant with grey interior and white outside very little body damage just little dents. I think it has a locked motor because it ticks and it has a new starter. It is a total part out and I have parts from many other galants in the past. Pm me if you need any parts and I will let you know if I have them or not.

  11. #11
    Sorry to bump an old ass thread, but this one was very helpful, as per Stewi's instructions. His should be made into a sticky in the How-TO section, really helped me out. Knocked it out in a little less than six hours with two people who had no idea what they were getting into.
    1997 Volvo 850 T5

  12. #12
    TGC Lifetime Patron finald8ta's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-17-2011
    Location
    i live in sunny florida
    Posts
    1,240
    GREAT this is what I look forward to doing in the next week. Danm heater core. don't matter any way I still need to install my airbags and might as well loosen the shifter cable bolts while I'm at it for when I go 5speed swap, thank stewi.

Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •