caring for transmission... please help

**drm3613** · 10-19-2011, 01:05 AM

Ok so I bought my 2003 galant 2.4l at 115000 miles. It's my first and only car I have had and I'm planning on changing the oil, filter, etc on my transmission. I have never messed with that area of my car and I now have 162000 on my ride. Ive heard things about messing with this area at these many miles in my car can be very sensitive and can improve or total my transmission. What can I do to keep my transmission running good I don't want to do anything wrong. What to buy, what to look out for, please help I need all the info I can get.

**tamim13** · 10-19-2011, 05:14 PM

For a 2.4L, you don't have a serviceable transmission filter, so basically at that mileage, you need to change the fluid. There are two options, one is a drain and refill and the other is a transmission flush.

There are also two different opinions as to which is better with higher mileage cars. The first opinion is that a flush may actually damage your transmission as there will be quite a bit of particulate matter in your fluid at this mileage. The second opinion is that a drain and refill never really gets all the fluid out, as it does not get the fluid out of the torque converter, and thus might not help. Some people say that if you do not have the flush machine, that if you drain and refill multiple times, you can get all the fluid out. There are steps in the service manual I believe.

Lastly it's very important to use only Mitsubishi Diamond SPIII fluid. Do not use aftermarket stuff, as our transmissions are rather sensitive to the fluid used. If you're getting the transmission flushed at a shop, take 16qts of the Mitsu fluid or more to the shop so that you know for sure they are using the right fluid.

Now, at 162K miles, you might want to think about changing all the other fluids also, like the coolant, brake and power steering fluid. It's also important to do the spark plugs, wires, thermostat, PCV Valve, air filter(s) and timing belt and water pump. Basic maintenance helps you run your car for many years to come.

**Isaurio** · 10-19-2011, 05:25 PM

x2.... thats all the info you need there.

**master_visionary** · 10-19-2011, 05:43 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPA...e_gdata_player

Check this out torque converter fluid can be safely flushed

The guys corny the infos good

**drm3613** · 10-19-2011, 07:02 PM

So when it comes to the drain n refill option, if I do this process once there will be no difference as far as in the performance in the car? Also doing the drain n refill won't damage my transmission? Am I correct?

**master_visionary** · 10-19-2011, 07:19 PM

No flush machines force key word force fluid through the tranny causing damage by affecting one way valves and such it will be fine.

Now as far as performance it may shift smoother and quicker pull just a lil harder but don't expect too much

I did mine like in the video @ 241k have drove 5k sinceand its fine also feel free to up grade your tranny cooler

**drm3613** · 10-19-2011, 08:16 PM

Tranny cooler huh... Sounds like I a great idea I'm eating on my radiator to come in I might as well do that also. So how many quarts exactly does my 8g normally need?

**master_visionary** · 10-19-2011, 08:50 PM

No idea on that but you should look at the yard for a late 80s early 90s bronco they have a laminar flow cooler that's very efficient ill post a pic in a sec

**master_visionary** · 10-19-2011, 08:53 PM

The fluid separates and flows through the fins criss cross then comes togetherand returns to the line.

I used the bronco one for my tranny and will be using the stock one for pre turbo oil cooling

**drm3613** · 10-19-2011, 09:14 PM

Really bronco??? That's a direct fit?

**master_visionary** · 10-19-2011, 09:33 PM

Nope get some extra hose and make it work

**drm3613** · 10-19-2011, 11:33 PM

I think ill look for one this weekend. Also u flushed ur transmission like the video? How many times did you do the process? The guy explains it only once. I was thinking maybe timing when the temporary oil comes out of the torque converter when doing this process the first time, record the time, drive for a day, then redo the process and use the time it takes to drain the oil out and add the SPIII oil in.... Idk man what did you do? This way sounds a lot cheaper. Also where is the drain valve for the transmission oil? I have all the tools required I just need more info he only explained like half of the process. Nice video though none the less

**Apex91** · 10-19-2011, 11:37 PM

First of all you need to buy yourself the Haynes repair manual from any auto parts store, I got mine from advanced. Its the best 30 bucks you could spend, it tells you what type of fluids, how much, and how to do every repair with pictures, lists of tools, step by step instructions, and tips along the way.

I went from knowing next to nothing about cars to having a good idea of how everything works thanks to that book and a little help from carbibles.com

Carbibles.com breaks every system down in your car and explains it in terms everyone can understand (that is, no huge technical words and lots of pictures and helpful info)

Get they Haynes, read EVERYTHING on carbibles.com, go slow, and BAG AND TAG (ziploc bags for every part, and all the bolts that go with it) and number the bags, and you basically cant fail.

I did all gaskets (Intake, Throttle Body Exaust, EGR Valve Cover, Transmission, Oil pan Cam seals) Complete timing belt job (all tensioners, idlers, pullys, belts) and cleaned everything down with brake cleaner/purple power.

This all being done on my first car with no prior mechanical know how, just read the carbibles articles, get the haynes, take it slow, and organize your parts, and you can do anything you want bro, its really not as hard or scary as people make it seem, you only break stuff and cause problems when you rush, and have no idea what your trying to do.

But if you read from that site, and go by the book, GO SLOW AND ORGANIZE!!! (cant stress this enough if its your first time doing big work) then you will be fine and have alot of fun learning alot along the way

Hope I helped! :)

**Apex91** · 10-19-2011, 11:44 PM

Originally Posted by drm3613

I think ill look for one this weekend. Also u flushed ur transmission like the video? How many times did you do the process? The guy explains it only once. I was thinking maybe timing when the temporary oil comes out of the torque converter when doing this process the first time, record the time, drive for a day, then redo the process and use the time it takes to drain the oil out and add the SPIII oil in.... Idk man what did you do? This way sounds a lot cheaper. Also where is the drain valve for the transmission oil? I have all the tools required I just need more info he only explained like half of the process. Nice video though none the less

what the guy doesnt show you is he is pouring fluid into the transmission as he is letting it pump out, you CAN NOT let it run dry, you will fuck your transmission, im doing this process tomorrow on my Volvo 850, I know its not a galant, but the idea is the same, check out this how to from the guys over at matthewsvolvosite.com: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...pic.php?t=8767

The measuring process is critical unless you have a friend to keep pouring fluid in while the car runs. Even then, after it spits clean your gonna have to check the dipstick and make sure its not overfull, and if it is, disconnect the line and drain some more out, check the level again, and top it off if its too low after.

I did the drain and fills on my Galant, before I found out about this process. I did one a day for about a week, went through about 14 quarts of fluid but its bright pink now :D the drain bolts are on the pan like for the oil, and theres a second on on the back of the torque converter facing the passenger side.

Get that Haynes book! It shows you where they are at, and tells you how much/what kind of fluid to use!

**master_visionary** · 10-19-2011, 11:48 PM

BIG X2 ON CARBIBLES.COM AND HAYNES

Once should be enough
Its like I told a Guy while I replaced the starter on an Oldsmobile Aurora V8 in 30 minute outside the store it failed at

Its all nuts and bolts