The speaker outs go to the infinity unit the rcas go to the aftermarket sub amp
The speaker outs go to the infinity unit the rcas go to the aftermarket sub amp
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
Are you talking about a factory amplifier integration cable?
That's how I used my head unit with my Infinity amp and stock Infinity speakers (although my door speakers were replaced before I got the car with Infinity Reference 6 1/2" coax's), the cannon plug goes to the amp, the RCA's to the head (I have splitters to send the full-range signal to all four RCA's going to the amp and the low-end signal going to my sub amp since my head unit only has four pre-outs) and the other wires are for head unit and amp power. I taped off the orange since my unit doesn't use it). I hope all this helps the OP and anyone else use as many options as possible for audio upgrading!
Edit: Didn't see that the OP still has a stock unit, my method is for using an aftermarket head unit with the Infinity amp, I don't think our Infinity head units have hi-level speaker outputs since the speakers get driven by the amp under the seat, but I could be wrong. Looking at the stock Infinity head unit, it does have pins on the harness connector for speakers, but the car harness doesn't have the wires for it.
Last edited by wetamup2k3g; 12-24-2011 at 11:29 AM
-Greg
"I smashed up the grey one, bought me a red;
Every time we hit the parking lot we turn heads!"
-Pimp C, "International Players Anthem"
So youre saying wire the aftermarket head units speaker outputs to the stock infinity amp inputs? But isn't the stock hedunitd output non amplified and the new one amped? Won't that hurt the infinity amp?
'99 5-Speed GTZ: Forged 3.6L 6G74T 6764 E85
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That might be what master_visionary is saying, I would bypass the Infinity amp if I used high-level speaker output as Matt said, or use preouts and an integration harness if you wanted to keep the amp as I said. The stock head unit doesn't get as loud as an aftermarket one in my experience, and the stock speakers with the amp perform nicely with just a little more volume if you use the high-pass feature on your deck and make sure only a subwoofer with its own amp plays the low-frequency bass notes. You won't win any SPL competitions with that setup, but you'll have loud, clear sound on a budget.
-Greg
"I smashed up the grey one, bought me a red;
Every time we hit the parking lot we turn heads!"
-Pimp C, "International Players Anthem"
Nope it wont hurt it I will draw a diagram tonight so y'all can see exactly how I did it.
My infinity unit has two plugs one has 13 wires one has 12
The 13 is
Remote
Power ×2
Ground ×2
Speaker input ×8
The 12 is all speaker outputs
Front highs ×4
Mids for doors and 6×9s ×8
The aftermarket deck has eight outputs for speakers
Those go to the infinity amps input plug
You just match em up as front l or r out to the amps l or r in etc then
12v constant to the battery
Ground to the chassis
Remote wire to the remote wire on the deck
It works my car is proof it amplifies the decks outputs
Last edited by master_visionary; 12-24-2011 at 06:04 PM
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
Give me the model number of the amp ill hook you up
Your balance and fade will still work properly as well this way
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
Honestly I see people are confused because my system uses an infinity unit from a Chrysler sebrings
The infinity amp takes radio outputs (8 wires -4channels) and amplifies that into 6 six channels. 4 mids and two highs
The only other wires other than in-outputs are power ground and remote
(I even use the infinity remote line to signal my Kenwood)
The fact that I pulled one at the junkyard and have it working lovely in my g should make believers outta y'all
Consider this it amplifies what its given so give it 12 Watts it makes 26
Give it 50 it makes around 75
Now as for the speakers I have Memphis 4" dash. Alpine type S doors, VR3 6×9s
Hooked up to it all are 4ohm and the same sizes as what was in the sebring
So the only difference in setup between its stock arrangement and my system is it is pushing higher quality speakers (minus the vr3 rears) and the input wattage so it performs well within its bounds
P.s. I bought my 7g with a OLD Sony deck and stock speakers now is sounds excellent
Split no respectable ...most def
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
I was wondering what exactly you did, these last couple posts make it clear, but for my liking if I were to do all that wiring I'd just go get an aftermarket multi-channel amp and work with that as it is more flexible in adjustment. Using a stock amp is for lazy folk (like myself) who are gonna be just fine with the stock speakers and such. If I were to replace all my speakers and do all that wiring I'd just get the best amp I could and go from there. Plus I've read that amplifying an already amplified signal can produce hiss and other unwanted sounds from your speakers that you can control by manipulating your gains, but if the stock amps have no such adjustment, you're stuck with whatever sound it put outs. I see the possibility, just not the practicality.
-Greg
"I smashed up the grey one, bought me a red;
Every time we hit the parking lot we turn heads!"
-Pimp C, "International Players Anthem"
Not sure what the model # is. It should be whatever came stock in the 99 galants with the infinity system.
I'm super broke lol a shadetree mechanic with three kids I love dearly
I did this to get the sound withhout the money I paid $10 for the amp and its harness at the yard
No hissing no distortion unless its maxed out on the deck
but that's probly the decks fault its a cheap ass dual unit from Walmart and the sub is a 34 dollar Pyle
Like I said super budgets. For those who must achieve whatever. They can't afford
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
And honestly I did this to see if I could I don't mind wiring anything that can be fixed or modified to perform interests me greatly
And again
That's why I'm the Visionary
AkA Joe
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
Welcome to TGC, how did the audio work out?
Well, The audio hasnt lol. I actually just got around to messing with it today, And I have one white clip with around 5 wires on it, and then two black cables one with a lot of small pins, and one with a few larger pins and then two smaller black cables (Two smaller ones look the the am/fm antenna)
Im just contemplating buying a big roll of speaker wire and re-wiring the whole car-Seems like it would just be easier.
I did score a couple type r 12"s on craigslist (Even though theyre the older models and i wanted the newer models) atleast now I can start building the sub boxs (One type r 15" in the middle, With two type r 12"s around it)
I also ordered the new air struts and they will be here wednesday! So I'll be taking her around the block in a couple days :)
In no way is it easier to rewire the car, take pictures of what you have and I will help you get this thing playing.
Welcome! Good luck with your project!
ROME_22
If i had enough speaker wire i probably already would have LOL.
Cant get pics now-Its too dark.
But All I have is the 5 wire white clip (which includes the power, acc, and ground and 2 others im not sure of.
Then i have the am/FM antennas, And then I have two data cables. One with maybe 7-10 smaller pins and the other with maybe 4-6 larger pins. (Both male)
Im assuming one or both of the data pins go to the amp, I can get a pic of the back of the stock head unit (As its out and I can bring it inside) if that would help you any?
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