2002 Galant GTZ - Cant get factory radio out

[oakrdrs187]

The center channel is wired in series to both fron doors. As in (+) to driver and (-) to pass.


Kcarel, in order to use the factory amp with the speakers just how it is now you need a better radio. The ones Greg (wetamup) mentioned will work as long as they have 2 sets of 4V RCA outputs. The radio you got only has one set labeled "rear" and most likely its only 2V. Then get the harness that was shown above to integrate, you shouldn't have to cut or splice anything.

[wetamup2k3g]

The center channel is wired in series to both fron doors. As in (+) to driver and (-) to pass.


Kcarel, in order to use the factory amp with the speakers just how it is now you need a better radio. The ones Greg (wetamup) mentioned will work as long as they have 2 sets of 4V RCA outputs. The radio you got only has one set labeled "rear" and most likely its only 2V. Then get the harness that was shown above to integrate, you shouldn't have to cut or splice anything.

LOL, I probably should have mentioned that those are all the same unit Vic, it just can change colors, that shot of the back was for that unit, but looking at the specs it's only 2V, does that really make that much of a difference? I mean mine is only 2.2V, and I'm cranking in my joint lol!

[oakrdrs187]

Its what's recommended across alot of cars with stock amps, maybe ours is more forgiving. I know I once was working with a nissan bose and the volume was very low at the decks highest setting. Switched to 4v and perfect.

I guess as long as you 2 pre outs minimum to keep the fader/balance even.

[kcarel]

Thanks for the info guys. I bought the pioneer Greg mentioned and it's supposed to be at the house tomorrow. Got the crutchfield harness on the way too. Looks like all I really need to do is plug and fuse a few wires together (thankfully I can do this inside and not with my hands in the dash trying to solder.

I think I understand the basics here but what does the V mean? 2v VS. 4v? volts? im not an audio junkie so maybe it's not going to be a big deal on my factory equipment? or is that what you're saying, the factory systems on other cars dont work well with 2V? What is mitsu stock deck at?

Just curious. thanks. :)

[oakrdrs187]

Signal strength from the rca output. But if Gregs has his working you should be fine.

[kcarel]

Good deal. Would this have to do with picking up static when I turn on the rear window heaters? When I had the stock unit, every winter when it frosted over the car, I'd lose signal from the radio and get pure static when I hit that defrost button on the HVAC controls. I wonder if anyone else had this problem with stock head unit? I guess we will see if the aftermarket eliminates the problem.

I used to have 2 12" kicker comps some 10 years ago. the installer ran the RCA through the same kick plate as the power line and I picked up a lot of static. I ended up re-running the RCA on the other side of the kick plate to the subs. Could it be the RCA line for stock is too close to the radio antennae? Maybe something I could do before I get it all installed and put back together?

thanks.

[kcarel]

Got it in! Great help, Greg. Wow. thanks. I was hoping a guy just like you popped up to answer my questions.

One thing, either my rear speakers are blown or something is not configured right. I can feel the speakers move when they are playing but I can hardly hear anything back there. it's a real muddied scratchy sound. Fronts, tweeters and center dash speaker work great. no question the rears are getting output though. Just cant seem to get volume and clarity out of them. Any thoughts?

also, I'm getting static when I turn on the rear windshield defroster still. my burned CDs play great though. just some issues with the rear speakers. thanks for any suggestions/thoughts.

[wetamup2k3g]

Glad I could help!

I had the exact same problem. Turn the radio off, then hit menu (not sure how to do it on your radio). Scroll thru your options and you should see something that looks like R.SP=SW.

That means your rear preout is set to the low pass filter and is only sending bass notes to the rears. Select that option and scroll (should only be once) until it says R.SP=FULL.

That will let the full range of sound thru to your speakers. It should be in your manual how to do it. Hope this helps!

[oakrdrs187]

Glad I could help!

I had the exact same problem. Turn the radio off, then hit menu (not sure how to do it on your radio). Scroll thru your options and you should see something that looks like R.SP=SW.

That means your rear preout is set to the low pass filter and is only sending bass notes to the rears. Select that option and scroll (should only be once) until it says R.SP=FULL.

That will let the full range of sound thru to your speakers. It should be in your manual how to do it. Hope this helps!

This, exactly what's going on.

[kcarel]

Yep, got it figured out. Just needed you guys to point me in the right direction. Lot of acronyms to toggle through this booklet. Turns out, I found the REAR-SP setting was at full (FUL), so then I went to the preout setting for rear and subs and switched to SW-REA. speakers in the rear are fully functional now.

Still got the static with the radio when I try to turn on the rear window defrost...not too worried about that, no biggie.