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Reply With QuoteStart by cleaning the throttle body. Sounds like carbon buildup. Warning: DO NOT touch the idle screw. Clean the TB and your idle RPM should return to normal.
when the engine is on and is in idle the steering wheel is just fine but when I put in to drive and the rpm down a little the steeriing wheel start to shacks a little. i never had the proble like that but after a oil change. it do that when i stop for the light and at the fully stop the rpm is like below idle. would any one know what would be the problem and does this happen to anyone?
Start by cleaning the throttle body. Sounds like carbon buildup. Warning: DO NOT touch the idle screw. Clean the TB and your idle RPM should return to normal.
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
I'm not sure what kind of problem you're describing. It may be the issue Chip is talking about, or it may just be the normal engine vibrations transferring up through to the steering wheel like it was on my car after stiffer mounts.
"Daisy tumbled short of his dreams, not through her own fault, but because of the colossal vitality of his illusion... No amount of fire or freshness can challenge what a man will store up in his ghostly heart. " - F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby
"I have not failed 700 times. I have not failed once. I have succeeded in proving that those 700 ways will not work. When I have eliminated the ways that will not work, I will find the way that will work." - Thomas Edison
sounds like possibly a misfire on one or more cylinders. any check engine light at all?
there not engine light on but i have the shop check it was not misfired and is not shacking from the engine at all i didnt ahve that problem before.
i will clean out my TB tomorrow see if that slove the problem do you guy think tune up would get that out and what do we all need for tune up i know plug and wires what other thing would i need to do too ?
If they're like my dealership, they'll likely do nothing more than Chip's recommendations, except they'll charge you a premium price for it.
"Daisy tumbled short of his dreams, not through her own fault, but because of the colossal vitality of his illusion... No amount of fire or freshness can challenge what a man will store up in his ghostly heart. " - F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby
"I have not failed 700 times. I have not failed once. I have succeeded in proving that those 700 ways will not work. When I have eliminated the ways that will not work, I will find the way that will work." - Thomas Edison
Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 3:12 pm Post subject:
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If they're like my dealership, they'll likely do nothing more than Chip's recommendations, except they'll charge you a premium price for it.
what do you mean by this
I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM!!!
I've posted this problem before but nobody really helped to solve it.
SYMPTOM: "Steering wheel vibrations at IDLE in drive" (not in neutral or park)
Possible causes from what I've read/heard.
Carbon build up in the Throttle Body. (I've cleaned it many times)
MAS has dirt/debris on it.
Rotors are warped. (the dealership told me this)
Possible head gasket leak.
Something about Spark plugs. (I've replaced them w/NGKs) not plat or irid
PCV valve. (replaced it)
The only thing I haven't done is replace the rotors. The dealership said that when the break is applied on warped rotors, it can cause slight vibrations like a see-saw rocking back and forth. Sounds crazy but it might be the problem.
I just haven't had time to resurface them or get new ones.
-Mike.
yea i know i have the shop check with computer and said no misfires so i dont know what else would it be wrong clone2020 would you let me know when you get the rotor change and see if that sovle the problem and also i dont knwo where you get rotor at i checked most auto parts store they dont ahve it do i have to go through the mits dearler which i dont want to do
Does your steering wheel vibrate all the time or just on cold starts for 10-15 minutes?
-Mike.
I had a misfire in cylinder 2. Replaced the spark plugs, then found it was still misfiring. Moved the coilpacks around and finally found that one of the coilboots was fouled, causing the misfire. I will update my original post with the details, but I ended up ordering the coilboot (~$22)...By the way, IT IS available as a separate item. You DO NOT have to get another coil, to fix it. Just order the boot....I'll get the part number and post it later.
Anyways, that fixed my low-speed/idle vibration/sputter..... good luck
Elvis
man, this problem is becoming almost too common, i've been seeing so many posts regarding this.
I may be having the same problem, although it is very slight in my case. There is a humming sound when I'm stopped in drive. It is very faint in my case, but definitely there. My car only has 1400 miles, so I don't think any of the reasons given apply in my case.
When I popped the hood, the sound appears to be coming from the belts, not 100% sure because I haven't really investigated.
Could this be a problem with the belts? I always thought the engine was a little noisier than it should be, but I didn't really pay much attention to it. There is a ticking sound when the car is idling, almost like a diesel engine. Could these both be caused by the belts? My engine is running fine, no problems at all.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Satan)</div><div class='quotemain'>I had a misfire in cylinder 2. Â*Replaced the spark plugs, then found it was still misfiring. Â*Moved the coilpacks around and finally found that one of the coilboots was fouled, causing the misfire. I will update my original post with the details, but I ended up ordering the coilboot (~$22)...By the way, IT IS available as a separate item. Â*You DO NOT have to get another coil, to fix it. Â*Just order the boot....I'll get the part number and post it later.
Anyways, that fixed my low-speed/idle vibration/sputter..... Â*good luck
Elvis</div>
What/where are the coil packs? Are they over the spark plugs?
-Mike.
Only on the I4, and only over two of the plugs - you cant miss them- right there sittin on the valve cover.
Cool, thanks...Originally Posted by cdaw2001ES
I always wondered why mitsu did that...
-Mike.
If you had a misfire, you would probably have a DTC code or SES light. have a shop connect a scanner to find out. if there are no codes, you probably have a bad mount.
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