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Thread: 8G Back from the dead

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  1. #1

    8G Back from the dead

    Hello All!

    I have an 8G(v6) with about 75k miles that has, unfortunately, been sitting in the weather for about 5+ years. It hasn't been turned over at all. I realize that I'm going to have to drain/replace all fluids, get rotors turned etc. but what other things should I plan on replacing? So far I figure I need to:
    Turn Rotors
    Check pads
    Replace brake fluid
    drain gas tank
    Replace fuel filter
    Drain/replace coolant fluid
    replace thermostat
    Drain/replace tranny fluid
    replace tranny filter
    new plugs/wires
    maybe distro cap/rotor?
    valve cover gaskets
    head gasket?
    new battery
    test alternator
    test starter

    All help is appreciated!

  2. #2
    You are here entirely tooo much!! fatal1's Avatar
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    thats a long time for a car to sit without even being started. i would certainly do the routine maintenance. i would also check the belts etc since chances are they are dry rot from just sitting there. the above items mentioned are a good start but it really depends on how beat up the car is and how severe the climate change was over time...

  3. #3
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acremeans2326 View Post
    Turn Rotors
    Check pads

    Replace brake fluid
    drain gas tank
    Replace fuel filter
    Drain/replace coolant fluid
    replace thermostat
    Drain/replace tranny fluid
    replace tranny filter
    new plugs/wires
    maybe distro cap/rotor?
    valve cover gaskets

    new battery

    Replace all. Plus timing belt and water pump.

  4. #4
    Ok, I've done all the above. The car turns over, but it doesn't start. I pulled the plugs/wires, and they are firing when turned over. I smelled the plugs, and they have a gas smell. Should I hear the fuel pump humming if the back seat is still out? I'm not sure if I'm having an issue with air or fuel. I had pulled the fuel pump and replaced the screen on the bottom. There was also a line on the pump itself (between the top and bottom, that was broken, so I replaced it with some 5/16 rubber fuel line. Everything seems to be working, but it just won't run. It doesn't sound like there are any vacuum issues. I do have one other question about timing as well. TDC on 1 is supposed to be when ALL of the marks line up. from what I can tell (putting some extensions down into the cylinder), that TDC is when the crankshaft mark is at the bottom of the engine. I'm completely baffled by this, but I figured if the marks are lined up, then it has to be right. I hate to have to take it to the dealer and them charge me a fortune to fix it. I've already put about $600 into it. Any suggestions guys? My Brother-in-law and I are stumped.

  5. #5
    So this morning, I sprayed some starter fluid into the intake, and had someone try and crank it and it runs. So... should I go with a used pump/sending unit, or a new one? I can get a used one with 30 day warranty for about $75. Cheapest new one is $275. Thoughts?

  6. #6
    You are here entirely tooo much!! IVORY_G's Avatar
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    I was gonna say it sounded like your fuel pump. I wouldnt buy a used one. Chances are it could still crap out on you after the warranty is up and then your out of the money spent on it. When buying parts like those you have to invest the money into new parts. Otherwise you can just be throwing your money away. Ive been there and done that before so I know from experience.
    JDM Zenki Conversion

    Lazy hands make for poverty, but diligent hands bring wealth. (Proverbs 10:4 NIV)

  7. #7
    New Member doctor's Avatar
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    acremeans2326 get the Walbro fuel pump. It runs well and cost about $100
    Galant E15a EXE/4G63/1987/Ethanol Edition

  8. #8
    You are here entirely tooo much!! fatal1's Avatar
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    dont get a walbro unless your planning on boosting the car. just get a stock replacement

  9. #9
    @doctor: I believe I need the entire sending assembly, not just the pump, so I still have to buy the expensive part.

    @IVORY_G: I went ahead and got the used system, because even though I plan to drive the car for a while, I'm only assuming that putting another unit in will correct the issue. With the time it's been sitting, I may have an issue in my lines or something, and it just appears to be pump related. So I just want to take the cheapest route to fix it. I'll never boost it, so if this one fails, I'll just spend the 300 on a new replacement. After 6 years of sitting, all I hope for right now is a running car.

  10. #10
    Car started! Woo-hoo... unfortunately, when it got to operating temp, it started shooting out water... does anybody know how to pull the distributor? I think that part that's leaking is the housing that mounts to the side of the engine where the thermostat connects to. i can get all bolts but one, and it's wedged behind the distributor. no socket or wrench will fit in there.

  11. #11
    OK. So i pulled the thermostat housing, after pulling the distributor. The big pipe that runs across the top of the engine that connects the water pump to the housing has a big rust hole in it! Has anybody else seen this happen? I called Mitsubishi, and it cost $95 after tax for the pipe plus o-rings (with overnight shipping). I really hope this is the last thing I have to buy.

  12. #12
    so, i'm back to the drawing board. can't get the car to run at all. i've cleaned the MAS and the IAC Valve with appropriate cleaners. is there any way to test these (ie voltage meter, etc) to see if they are still good?

  13. #13
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Have any codes?

    Sent from my Rooted Droid X using hacked Tapatalk 2

  14. #14
    no codes... have no idea... if someone keeps cranking it, i can smell fuel.

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