No prob on sending the crank. It went alot easier than I thought it would.
actually it is, the only way i could go about getting any money back is to bring the short block back to NY so the machinist could see for himself. even then he would probaly rather rebuild then refund which would be fine with me.
but im not in a position to take off work or even leave the state now since my wifes going into labor anyday now so the next couple of months is gonna be pretty busy
for us. so im just gonna have to eat the cost this time.
No prob on sending the crank. It went alot easier than I thought it would.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
Wish u best luck and I hope u get it running again soon
can you send me a link on the "how to evo head swap" please?
So here's a little update, there cars been running for a couple of weeks and the 1k mile break in period was a little tough with the rough tune. you would be surprise how a fresh motor reacts over its first thousand miles but it got smoother as it got closer to the 1k mark. after that it got tuned on the dyno and it felt like a new car after, it behaved so well compared to the break in tune with boost cut off during the first 1k.
two days later we headed up to the track for the weekend and on my first session it backfires, the rpms drop and then it shuts off, just my luck right lol. i get towed back to the paddock and the trouble shooting begins, with some help from brian over the phone we narrow down the problem to cam angle sensor but i cant continue to trouble shoot because my wife is starting to feel real sick back at the hotel and needs to be close to the hospital just in case. so i wrap things up and we head for home.
what did i learn lol? dont rush to get a car broken and tuned for the track with less then 2 weeks to go cause something will go wrong. i gotta shake out all the bugs in the car like suspension, brakes, wiring, hornets nest (not kidding) etc. cuz the car has been sitting for so long that it needs to be sorted out. the car is pretty scary on the straights though i can tell you that and even scarier is the fact that i dont think my current street/track pads are up to the task anymore so those gotta get replaced. so all in all it was problay a good thing this happened since i was to quick to bring it to the track.
with more trouble shooting this week we narrowed it down to either the crank or cam angle sensor so those are on order from the dealer. hopefully the car will be ready for VIR in july if not then i guess ill be taking the 330i. on a good note though the front tow hook i set up on the crash bar is definetly up to the task lol! i was actually a little worried about it but its all good now.
Last edited by xd_01; 06-21-2012 at 11:13 AM
i know thats my biggest fear lol!
here some pics from my short lived session from an independent photographer thats at every nasa mid-atlantic event.
here's me getting familiar with my car again
annndddd here' s me pulling off track cause i lost power
at a complete stop and waiting on the recovery vehicle to tow me back into the pit
the car made 390hp at 19psi on a dynomite with a standard correction factor (what ever that is) but it was making its peak hp at 5900 and fell off from there, the tuner was having
abnormal knock readings so they just let it be until i relocate the ground the for the knock sensor which is tuners main concern. im sure if i wasnt taking it to the track the day after more couldve been done.
i know theres always conficts with dyno numbers on different dyno's and correction factors but believe me im looking for a much lower hp number to match my skill level on the track, i would be much happier with something like 275-300 for now then turn up the boost later on once i grow some balls with this car. ill tell them to turn down at my next tuning session.
This is an awesome build! Nice track pics man.
Lancer/EvolutionX Rotor Glow Paint
6g74 Forged Engine w/ hx40 turbo
Eclipse GT 5 spd swapped
Rotor Glow Galant
Daily Galant
OZ Edition Eclipse
Talking About knock ground wire. I got this little item. Its great for power and ground. I got a red one for power and black one for all my small sensors ground. You could add up to 12 ground point from one source. From batt to chassie to the ground block.
Here is a pic
thats cool i never seen that before where did you get it from?
well i finally figured out what happened when i was trying to replace the crank sensor which was one of the two sensors me and brian narrowed down to being the problem, the other being the cam which replaced with no luck.
it turns out the crank sensor was bad and i found out why, the bolt from the adjustable cam gear work its way out and fell to the bottom of the lower timing cover, got wedged, scored a very nice groove in the timing belt, got loose again then got wedged in the crank sensor blade and bent one of the fins back and im almost positive damaged the sensor itself.
now this is a big let down but you know what, im glad i figured out what the hell happened and learned a good lesson which is always inspect your bolts constantly on an engine the vibrates the way this one does. the poly mounts are unforgiving and loctite, loctite, and more loctite. ive already notice some other bolts like on the oil pan and on the tranny that i can almost stick my finger nail under so ill have inspect everything i can frequently. i just hope no valves hit because the gears also got loose enough that they moved so ill have to keepmy fingers cross.
pics
missing bolt
falling to the bottom
extra groove in belt
fin of sensor blade bent back
offending bolt
That sucks. Usually it says after you built a engine you need to drive it for a few miles then take things apart and torque everything down again.
Here is the part on ebay
Negative:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110901088391...#ht_563wt_1110
Positive
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110872711124...#ht_563wt_1110
well thats partially true, after it heat cylces your supposed re-torque the head studs but in my case i should of went the extra mile and check the tension on everything i could access which is what i will be doing before every event from now on.
for now though ill be setting up the 330i for the track for the rest of the season. just things like wheels, tires, and brakes cause honestly i cant afford to lose anymore seat time cause of any mechanical issues. once the galant is sorted then ill be taking it back out with confidence.
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