Just a rule of thumb, usually you shouldn't changed the oil weight unless
You go turbo or some kind of forced induction
You are doing so because you have a high mileage car
From what I have been taught, you shouldn't be alternating oil weights
Currently have 10w30 in my V6. My plan has been to use 10w30 spring/summer and 5w30 fall/winter due to colder starts. Sound about right?
Also I bought my car used with no manual, anyone know what the recommended oil weight was? Figured someone one here still has theirs, vs going off of generic wikianswers lol.
I have about 160k on the odometer, and started noticing oil consumption about two oil changes back. No signs of leaks. I've had to top off the oil twice since my last oil change, which was probably about 3100mi ago. I doubt I even used a full quart in doing so. I checked the level today, and it was under the lowest mark on the dip stick. I'll be doing a change in a day or so, so I didn't really worry about it. I just poured the last remainder of the 5qt jug
Anything seem abnormal about this?
Thanks for looking and any input
Just a rule of thumb, usually you shouldn't changed the oil weight unless
You go turbo or some kind of forced induction
You are doing so because you have a high mileage car
From what I have been taught, you shouldn't be alternating oil weights
Just because something is old, doesn't mean you throw it away
Geordi La Forge
So you should pretty much pick one or the other to run all year round?
5w30.
Thanks, but you mean all 4 seasons or just the cold ones like I planned?
Cause I do have an occasional overheating issue, I figured with that in mind the 10w30 would be the way to go in summer and spring since its already warm/hot
check your coolant and your oil, how much coolant is in your overflow bottle? if the oil looks like chocolate milk and/or if your coolant isn't apple green (or whatever color the coolant you put in), I'm afraid you have a blown head gasket
really, stick with one weight of oil, if you have oil consumption or have an oil leak, first use this oil
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pe...leage-vehicle/
it mostly cured my daily driver's oil leak
also put a piece of cardboard under your engine and let the car sit overnight, check the cardboard before driving the car, it will show if you have any leaks and the approximent location(s)
if your coolant is low (in the bottle or otherwise), fill it with the same color you have been using, if it keeps decreasing, well, depends on if your technically skilled or willing,
if not, go to a mechanic
if you are, began looking for problems, first still do the cardboard trick, check hoses for cracks and so on
I used to do 5w30 in winter and 10w30 during summer. I never run high mileage stuff either. I never did the research behind it but found that valve tick would go away in the winter with a lighter weight faster than it did with 10w30 in the winter.
Now I don't drive the car I care about in the winter lol.
Lancer/EvolutionX Rotor Glow Paint
6g74 Forged Engine w/ hx40 turbo
Eclipse GT 5 spd swapped
Rotor Glow Galant
Daily Galant
OZ Edition Eclipse
Oh yeah no milky oil cap or discolored coolant. Still apple green and there's about a lil less than half in the resevoir last I checked. This has been an issue for a while I just kinda learned to live with since it happens at random and short periods. I've had everything replaced either trying to cure it or due to basic maintenance execept for a new rad. Pump, rad cap, lower t-stat, etc
5w30 no need to run any other weights. The standard oil recommended, 5w30 again, has more than enough capability to protect your engine down to -50* or as hot as +150*. Anyone recommending heavier oil doesn't know what nor why they are recommending that. Intact with the tighter tolerances to todays engines heavier oil can be more problematic than helpful. Thicker weight oils are good for cars like diesels, rotary engines because of oil dilution, it isn't necessary for a modern style motor.
The thicker oil will also cause more potential for oil starvation for the oil pump and other parts that need lubrication.
First you need to understand what the oil weights mean. the first number is the minimum oil weight under heat the second number is the thickest oil will get when cold
originally oil came with the standard weight of 40 wait 50 weight and such referring to the viscosity of the oil
as understanding of things advanced and the oil got more complex the numbers were changed to show the oils range of viscosity the oil goes through using standard weights as a value system
A 5w30 means no thinner than a five no thicker than 30
A 10w40 no thinner than ten no thicker than 40 and so on
Shout out to anyone that still uses hand tools for their work
With elbow grease for power and determination for a battery
Maybe your broke maybe your old school
Me I'm a lil of both
Cool, scooped some 5w30 todah, and I'll stick with that.
Thanks again fellas
I run 5W-30 all year round.
GWAP STACKIN MAKE'S IT HAPPEN
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