if you have brembos you're gonna need @ least 10mm spacers up front for those if I remember correctly
Nice wheels are those for the G?
4g64T 5spd
if you have brembos you're gonna need @ least 10mm spacers up front for those if I remember correctly
OZ Rally Crew #001, Quaife Club member :D
thanks, yea the wheels are for the G. i still havent order spacers yet that will be next week, the rear fenders will probaly need to be rolled so ill have to rent a roller too.
what size are the star specs? you'll need a really good roll in the rear for sure and about a degree of camber for good clearance, I would recommend cutting the fender lip and running flares unless you run a ton of camber.
OZ Rally Crew #001, Quaife Club member :D
what are those measurements ?
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2001 Galant 2.4 USDMOld ones
2X BMW E34 Blaaackkkk
Isuzu Trooper mountain spec
its a piece of 3x5 angle iron 1/8 thick
So its 5" the distance he is asking about ??
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
thankz
2001 Galant 2.4 USDMOld ones
2X BMW E34 Blaaackkkk
Isuzu Trooper mountain spec
so i fitted the driver side rear wheel over the weekend. this set up is real aggresive, the wheels are 17x9 +22 with 235/45/17 star specs which run really wide to top it off.
i went old school and used the baseball bat method which workedout it really good plus a hammer with a hard rubber head, heat gun, and laser thermometer.
heres the before pics
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and after
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i know its hard to tell but there is a difference lol.
i didnt take alot of pics on this side but the process was pretty easy, first i figured out how much i wanted to roll and just marked it with masking tape. then i heated up in sections up to around 130*s and started hammering the lip over so that it was a little past 90*s. i figured this would help with the roll since the lip is sort of flared out which i think it did.
before i started rolling i put the car on a jack stand and un-bolted the coilover. then i took the floor jack and set it under the control arm this way i can pump it up and get full travel with out lifting up the whole car. then i started heating and rolling constantly checking by pumping the jack up and never doing to much at one time.
fully compressed
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rolling shot, no rubbing!!
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i know its tight and i only have a few millimeters clearence and im excpecting the body and wheel flex during hard cornering but im pretty sure i can get some more out of the fenders if need to.
heres a shot of the roll, the edges are chipped and a little rusted from the curious attempt years ago with a pipe, no heat and the car completly on the ground with the e-brake on. i just wanted to see how much it would take to crack the paint and it didnt take much lol, put some kinks in the metal too. none of that was done during this recent roll.
next weekend ill do the other side
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Those wheel look great on the car but the second you hit any bumps or take a turn that tire is gonna eat the inside of your fender man. might wanna roll them a bit more if possible and even go down 1 sidewall height.
91 Galant VR4 -Samara- #550/2000
A 225/45/17 tire would clear and not rub with that roll in the rear with no issues. Though the 235 will probably be better handling wise and looks 10x meaner than a 225.
Thanks, I know your set up is aggressive too did u have to do any rolling?
Im.curious to see what you'll do with the fronts
OZ Rally Crew #001, Quaife Club member :D
hopefully the negative camber will take of it but if not it will get the same treatment
i know its been a while but not much has changed, i did finish rolling the fenders and the rears came out pretty good,,, the fronts ehhh not so easy but done. they got a little distorted since i was changing the shape of a much smaller and non uni-body piece of sheetmetal but in a weird way i liked the way it turn out, kinda gangsta lol. i can always replace a fender, a 1/4 panel not so easy.
i dont have any camber measurements yet, never added any in the rear. what evers there is from the drop and the front i have camber plates and aftermarket cam bolts maxxed out.
before:
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i took a rubber hammer smacked the lip until i got to around a 90 degree angle, i figured it would be less work for the bat.
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thats it for now, photobucket is froze,,, anybody know of a better hosting site???
Guarantee you're gonna rub under load at the track
OZ Rally Crew #001, Quaife Club member :D
ok im gonna try again
the tools
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used the laser thermometer to gauge how hot i was heating the 1/4 panel for rolling, tried to keep it around 150 degrees but it was hard to spread the heat evenly
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starting to roll
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fully compressed
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the bat afterwards
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fronts finsished as well
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front fenders a little warped, oh well i still like it lol!
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,,,,,and sitting next to the new tow rig
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Last edited by xd_01; 03-13-2013 at 09:25 PM
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