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  1. #401
    Yes, as long as the V6 car had the single piston front calipers.
    '99 5-Speed GTZ: Forged 3.6L 6G74T 6764 E85
    2017: 552whp/562wtq SBE on 19psi
    '02 Eclipse GT: 6G72 M/T-swapped Daily Driver
    '10 Endeavor: 6G75 AWD Family-mobile

  2. #402
    Quote Originally Posted by tony2face View Post
    Hey guys, Is the rotors for a 2003 8g 4cyl the same size as the V6?
    Not for the 2003. Aftermarket(random check) all show the same part number. Mitsubishi shows the same price, so I'm guessing OEM is the same as well. These are for the fronts, if I remember right, the 4cyl doesn't come from the factory with rear rotors.

  3. #403
    Quote Originally Posted by M-Rod View Post
    Yes, as long as the V6 car had the single piston front calipers.
    I don't think the 2003 ever came with dual pistons, right?

  4. #404
    Quote Originally Posted by tamim13 View Post
    I don't think the 2003 ever came with dual pistons, right?
    Correct. only 1999 and early 2000 V6 came with dual piston

  5. #405
    Thanks for the info guys. I was searching online and it seemed to be the same size, but i posted here to be sure.
    Going to order some now.

  6. #406
    I was talking about the entire Generation. He doesn't have to limit the rotors to a 2003 model year car.
    '99 5-Speed GTZ: Forged 3.6L 6G74T 6764 E85
    2017: 552whp/562wtq SBE on 19psi
    '02 Eclipse GT: 6G72 M/T-swapped Daily Driver
    '10 Endeavor: 6G75 AWD Family-mobile

  7. #407
    TGC Regular Guzm4n's Avatar
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    How hard is it to take out the abs sensors from the knuckle? I know you have to remove the little bolt, but aren't the sensors magnetic?

    Also I'm changing out my control arms, already done with passenger side but on the drivers side I can't get the ball joint to go into the knuckle, anybody have any tips?

  8. #408
    I've broken abs sensors everytime I tried taking them out.

    As far as your second issue goes, I just replaced my ball joints last week and all I can suggest is trying to pull the knuckle outwards to get a straight angle for the ball joint to slide into. Hopefully that helps.
    '99 5-Speed GTZ: Forged 3.6L 6G74T 6764 E85
    2017: 552whp/562wtq SBE on 19psi
    '02 Eclipse GT: 6G72 M/T-swapped Daily Driver
    '10 Endeavor: 6G75 AWD Family-mobile

  9. #409
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    The knuckle has cut in it. Last time this happened I pryed it open a hair, plus a little wd40. Went right in.

    Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

  10. #410
    TGC Regular Guzm4n's Avatar
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    Did that on the passengers side but I didn't think it worked cause I didn't see it move that's why I didn't try it on the drivers side, but I guess it does work.

  11. #411
    How come the 6g72 from the eclipse is rated at 205 hp while the 6g72 from the galant only makes 195. Just wondering since it has the same compression ratio as well being the exact same engine. Im talking about the gt model and not the gts which has the butterfly valves. It just seems odd that there would be a 10 hp difference on the exact same engine. Is it detuned in the galant? The eclipse also gets supposedly the same gas mileage as well.

  12. #412
    TGC Lifetime Patron Black8GV6's Avatar
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    1. What's the best way to store an engine "outside", it will be in a small shed. If my friend is correct there is a 6g75 galant that was ran into the back of at the junkyard.
    2. Should I just pass up the engine and buy one in 3 years when my pockets are ready to do the engine build/swap?
    15 F150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 - daily driver
    01 Galant ES V6 MT (sold)
    00 Eclipse RS MT

  13. #413
    Experienced TGC Member Bloody Arro's Avatar
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    ^ That's a tough one (the last question).

    I would either
    A) Buy the engine, and over said 3 year period get her built with spare/project money

    or

    B) Save the money in case something pups up (knock on wood, but you never know), and pick up the engine and build it in one go when funds are right after the 3 years.

    I would personally save the money and engine for a later date; but my financial situation is fubar atm, so that's just me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blue8g View Post
    And fwd grocery fetters are fun, you wouldn't be on this forum if you didn't agree
    Quote Originally Posted by 8thLS6 View Post
    Tuning to me is like magic... I don't understand it but it makes things happen lol

  14. #414
    Quote Originally Posted by Black8GV6 View Post
    1. What's the best way to store an engine "outside", it will be in a small shed. If my friend is correct there is a 6g75 galant that was ran into the back of at the junkyard.
    2. Should I just pass up the engine and buy one in 3 years when my pockets are ready to do the engine build/swap?
    buy it, coat it with oil, wrap it in a giant huge space bag, vacuum pack that sucker. as long as you have oil and most of the air out, you should get not rust if the cylinder walls and what not are correctly coated

    AWD Converted Forward Facing 6466 E85 EVO 8 ECU Powered 2003 Galant

  15. #415
    TGC Lifetime Patron Black8GV6's Avatar
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    thanks for the replys, if I have time tomorrow I'll swing by the yard to see if the engine is there and to see the price of it. I have never seen a 6g75 in any of the junkyards I go to so this will be like seeing a unicorn if it's there and I'll probably get it.
    15 F150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 - daily driver
    01 Galant ES V6 MT (sold)
    00 Eclipse RS MT

  16. #416
    TGC Lifetime Patron Black8GV6's Avatar
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    went to the junkyard today, no 6g75, my friend is a douche. Anyways the good news is if I find an engine the price is $275 + $75 core charge, great price if I find one. Also I put back on my stock intake manifold and my P0300 went away and the throttle repsonse is normal, YAY!
    15 F150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 - daily driver
    01 Galant ES V6 MT (sold)
    00 Eclipse RS MT

  17. #417
    If you were using the 72 tb on the 74 manifold, it causes the egr valve to stay open. That creates the P0300 because it'll misfire in the low rpms.
    '99 5-Speed GTZ: Forged 3.6L 6G74T 6764 E85
    2017: 552whp/562wtq SBE on 19psi
    '02 Eclipse GT: 6G72 M/T-swapped Daily Driver
    '10 Endeavor: 6G75 AWD Family-mobile

  18. #418
    Senior TGC Member Skyforger's Avatar
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    Didn't really see any topics on the issue, rather post here than make a new thread.

    Anyway, the Galant doesn't see much use these days. I changed the oil in it back in November, it's only seen 1000 miles since. I had to jump start it a few days ago since it sat for most of the wonderfully cold weather LI (and everybody else) has been getting. Went over the fluids after I got it running and battery charged, oil still looks good (at the full line and a dark goldish color) power steering, coolant all look good, but the trans fluid looks rather dirty. It's not low, but definitely could use a change. Thing is, it doesn't have shifting issues. No slipping or hesitating.

    Still, I planned on changing it. To really make sure to get it fresh, I wanted to drain and refill 3 times. Basically, drain out the fluid and refill, drive for about two weeks and repeat this another two times. Anybody else done this? I'm planning on doing the same with the Accord, it's where I got the idea from (accord forums)

    Still need to find out the fill capacity of the auto, I'm only finding the entire capacity of the trans, not the drain and refill capacity. Heh, funny I work at a Mitsu dealership now and I'm still asking here for that info. Still, 8th gen Galants rarely come to this dealership as most don't "need" to come here for maintenance and repairs. Still, I'm hunting down the refill capacity while I'm not busy.

    -Chris-

    2003 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L SOHC: "Octavia"
    2005 Honda Accord EX-L Coupe 2.4L DOHC

    Quote Originally Posted by XxGiRLaNT06xX View Post
    From the looks of the girl, her face isnt that great.. nothing a paper bag couldnt fix... amirite?

  19. #419
    Here are the instructions from the Mitsubishi service manual -

    1. Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which
    connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the
    radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the
    discharge.
    CAUTION
    The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is
    started. If the A/T fluid has all drained out before then, the
    engine should be stopped at that point.
    Discharge volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
    2. Start the engine and let the A/T fluid drain out.
    Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling
    3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case
    to drain the A/T fluid.
    Discharge volume: Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts)
    4. Install the drain plug with a new gasket, and tighten it to the
    specified torque.
    Tightening torque: 32 2 N⋅m (24 1 ft-lb)
    CAUTION
    Stop pouring if the full volume of A/T fluid cannot be
    poured in.
    5. Pour new A/T fluid in through the oil filter tube.
    Adding volume: Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts)
    6. Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the
    contaminated A/T fluid)
    7. Pour the new A/T fluid in through the oil filler tube.
    Adding volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
    NOTE: Check the A/T fluid for contamination or burnt smell.
    If fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6 and 7
    before proceeding to Step 8.
    8. Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1
    above, and firmly replace the dipstick.
    9. Start the engine and run it at idle for one to two minutes.
    10.Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move
    it to the "N" position.
    11.Check that the A/T fluid level is at the "COLD" mark on the
    dipstick. If the level is lower than this, pour in more A/T fluid.
    12.Drive the vehicle until the A/T fluid temperature rises to the
    normal temperature [70 −80C (158 −176F)], and then
    check the A/T fluid level again. The A/T fluid level must be at
    the "HOT" mark.
    NOTE: The A/T fluid temperature is measured with scan tool
    (MUT-II).
    NOTE: The "COLD" level is for reference only; the "HOT"
    level should be regarded as the standard level.
    NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the A/T fluid
    reaches its normal operating temperature [70 −80C (158 -
    176F)], check the A/T fluid level by referring to the left
    diagram.
    13.Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.

    If you want pictures etc, there was a tutorial created by pinoyesv6 a while ago -

    http://web.archive.org/web/200601141...s/TrannyFlush/

    More information on the forum -

    https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...r-tranny-Fluid

  20. #420
    Senior TGC Member Skyforger's Avatar
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    Awesome, thanks for that. Now I just need to wait until it's not freakin' 35*F outside.

    -Chris-

    2003 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L SOHC: "Octavia"
    2005 Honda Accord EX-L Coupe 2.4L DOHC

    Quote Originally Posted by XxGiRLaNT06xX View Post
    From the looks of the girl, her face isnt that great.. nothing a paper bag couldnt fix... amirite?

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